Black tank waste valve flange broken

[larry2c]

Hi all - during our last camping trip I backed up and hit a rock with the black tank dump plumbing. I was lucky and the break was clean enough that with some parachord and duct tape I was able to get things stuck together and dumped the tank when I got home with only a cup or so of leakage into a catch pan.

Now I'm looking at what I need to get to fix it up and I believe I'll need to buy a new "slip hub flange" I'll replace the valve itself just to be safe but before I get going on this I wanted to ask the experts a couple questions. I also have attached a couple pictures to show what I think is broken (the break is so clean it doesn't look "broke").

At first I thought I could just cut the pipe back a bit and buy the flange I linked above, glue it up and be done. However, it looks like for my TT the grey and black tank are attached to a special Y pipe with the flanges made as an integral part of the Y. Am I seeing that right? Will I have to buy that entire Y fitting? If so, is that a "dealer only" item? Could I use ABS cement to just glue the flange back on the original pipe?

Any suggestions or clarification of what I'm seeing will be appreciated!

[larry2c]

After doing a bit more searching for the fitting I see there is a Y fitting that I can buy. My question now is, should I get the 1014 version (3" flange does not rotate) which is what I believe I broke or get the 1014-1 where the 3" flange rotates? I would think that would help avoid any alignment issues but maybe they might leak more?

Thoughts?

[Scrapper]

A curious question, where is the 4 bolts and nuts that hold it together?
If you have them then maybe you hit the rock just right that the flange popped over the rib on the pipe. Maybe use a rubber mallet and vaseline to put it back on. I don't see how that could happened without breaking something off.

[larry2c]

Hi Scrapper - I took the bolts out and removed the valve for the picture.

Since then I have completely removed the Y pipe and after checking it out, there were part numbers on it. The Y pipe is a Valterra 1015-1 which means the 3" flange was a rotatable flange and the interface between the flange & Y pipe is what appears to have failed.

I ordered a new Y pipe from ETrailer plus the 2" slip fit flange for the grey side since it was glued into the old pipe. I also ordered a new 3" waste valve just in case it was damaged. So, I think I have all the parts to fix it up once they arrive.

I do have one further question - since I'll have a new 3" valve and the 1 1/2" grey tank valve is exposed, would it be a good idea to lubricate the "blades" before reassembling everything? I have some silicone grease I use on O rings in my homebrew kegs that should work well. What do you think?

[nutdriver]

Originally Posted by larry2c

I do have one further question - since I'll have a new 3" valve and the 1 1/2" grey tank valve is exposed, would it be a good idea to lubricate the "blades" before reassembling everything? I have some silicone grease I use on O rings in my homebrew kegs that should work well. What do you think?

I can not think of any downsides to lubricating the blades before reassembling the valve.

[tosh99]

Can't go wrong with "new". I've seen a rig at an RV park where their dump valve failed. Luckily I was parked far enough away. Those next to that rig weren't so lucky.


Good luck.

[Splitshaft]

Originally Posted by tosh99

Can't go wrong with "new". I've seen a rig at an RV park where their dump valve failed. Luckily I was parked far enough away. Those next to that rig weren't so lucky.


Good luck.

I wish I were so lucky. Had a guy come in with his 40-foot class A, the sewer connection was at back of site facing my trailer. He drops his hose in drain line with no threaded or positive connection to the drain line and proceeds to dump his entire 75-plus gallons of stinking body waste at the front of my trailer. Gave me a new disrespect for owners of class A coaches that day.