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Old 08-17-2016, 01:08 PM   #1
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Black water leak: seller says this is a design issue and it is normal.

I bought a 2014 Cedar Creek Silverback 33RL 7/13/16. The next day I began to familiarize myself with it. When I removed the sewer outlet cap I was splashed with a couple of gallons of disgusting, smelly black water all over my legs, feet and hands. I thought maybe I had done something wrong, so at the end of our first mini-trip I went to the dump station and the same thing happened!

I stopped by the dump station at the start of mini-trip #2. The same thing happened again although I caught the stuff in a large bucket. We camped 3 nights, hit the dump station on the way out, and 2+ gallons of POOP again.

I contacted the seller, Camping World of Myrtle Beach (CWMB), and let them know about this problem along with a couple of other issues. After several more calls and messages I was told today, after owning the camper a total of 35 days, that:

► They had flushed the tank 3 times before I picked it up and they had the same problem. (As professionals with a well-known company in the camping world, why did they not tell me about this?)
► They said the problem has to do with a design flaw, a "lip" that causes some black water to splash into the outlet plumbing during travel
► They said nothing could be done about it!!!


I am astonished by their response! This problem is not only disgusting, it is unhealthy and unsafe.

Next, I called Cedar Creek and explained this issue. They confirmed that this leakage is not normal and probably has something to do with the black water valve which makes sense to me.

I just want to get all my ducks in order before I get back to CWMB: Does anyone else own a Silverback with problems like these or have you NOT had this problem?
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2014 Cedar Creek Silverback 33RL
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:16 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swbouton View Post
I bought a 2014 Cedar Creek Silverback 33RL 7/13/16. The next day I began to familiarize myself with it. When I removed the sewer outlet cap I was splashed with a couple of gallons of disgusting, smelly black water all over my legs, feet and hands. I thought maybe I had done something wrong, so at the end of our first mini-trip I went to the dump station and the same thing happened!

I stopped by the dump station at the start of mini-trip #2. The same thing happened again although I caught the stuff in a large bucket. We camped 3 nights, hit the dump station on the way out, and 2+ gallons of POOP again.

I contacted the seller, Camping World of Myrtle Beach (CWMB), and let them know about this problem along with a couple of other issues. After several more calls and messages I was told today, after owning the camper a total of 35 days, that:

► They had flushed the tank 3 times before I picked it up and they had the same problem. (As professionals with a well-known company in the camping world, why did they not tell me about this?)
► They said the problem has to do with a design flaw, a "lip" that causes some black water to splash into the outlet plumbing during travel
► They said nothing could be done about it!!!


I am astonished by their response! This problem is not only disgusting, it is unhealthy and unsafe.

Next, I called Cedar Creek and explained this issue. They confirmed that this leakage is not normal and probably has something to do with the black water valve which makes sense to me.

I just want to get all my ducks in order before I get back to CWMB: Does anyone else own a Silverback with problems like these or have you NOT had this problem?
The gate valve has a rubber washer style seal that circles the entire inside of the valve with a groove in the center. Either the seal got bent out of shape or some debris got into that groove and the valve is not closing all the way.

You have two options, take the valve apart and clean/replace the seal or replace the entire valve.

They aren't very expensive and if I recall correctly have 4 stainless steel bolts holding them in place.

My brand new 2017 MBS 2400 WS has a small leak in the grey water valve at times. All it takes to get that leak is to have a piece of food drop into the groove while emptying the tank.
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:30 PM   #3
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My CC has leaked a bit since day one, 11 years ago. I did replace my black tank blade last year due to other problems. Helped some, but I still end up with a bit of liquid when I open the termination cap. It has to do with the length between the valves and the termination cap. There is always a bitmof liquid left over. New black tank valve assembly is not super expensive, so call CC parts dept and order a new one. Fairly easy to replace, once you get the belly pan off that is.
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:39 PM   #4
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Those valves aren't specific to CC and they shouldn't leak. You may get a few drops due to adhesion to the pipe walls.

I'd have the dealer replace the valve, and if they take their time and do it correctly, and lube the seals, it won't leak.

The trick is to make sure the seals don't get pinched and to lube the seals when installing them.
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:26 PM   #5
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If you are right my problem is not that big a problem after all. I'll try to learn how to do this.

Are gate valves all the same or are they inconsistent?

Thank you very much for your help.
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Steve & Pat, "Diesel" the Boxer, and "Molly" the Scotty
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:47 PM   #6
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They're pretty much universal. When I replace them I get the ones with the metal handles.

Does yours have cable operators? If so, the replacement will need to be cable operated as well.
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:52 PM   #7
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Sure sounds like a valve not closing all the way. As a short term stop gap you might pick one of these up to at least save you from the unpleasant surprise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B...vAL&ref=plSrch


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Old 08-17-2016, 03:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtaylor1920 View Post
Sure sounds like a valve not closing all the way. As a short term stop gap you might pick one of these up to at least save you from the unpleasant surprise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B...vAL&ref=plSrch
To the OP...
Your valve that is giving you problems looks very much like the one in the link above that jtaylor posted but it is mounted in the plumbing, back beyond the outlet cap so you 'may' not be able to see it.

They are a very simple mechanical blade valve and the advice is spot on of either something is stuck in there not allowing it to close - or - if cable operated, it simply is not going shut due to a broken/mis-adjusted cable.

CW should be able to fix it with little to no problems but based on what you said they told you... who knows!

As mentioned by jtaylor, the valve in the link simply turns onto the end of the outlet pipe (where you cap is currently residing) providing a now secondary, shut off valve. Your cap will screw on to the other side of the valve. You would then be able to remove the cap, attach your hose and then open this secondary valve without fear of something splashing out all over you.

Hopefully CW can get your factory valve fixed, but if not, the one mentioned will solve your problem.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:33 PM   #9
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I replaced both the valves on my previous TT due to leakage. I found exactly what "ShermanD" stated, on the black tank the seal had a small kink in the gasket. Also, these were cable operated valves and they had never felt right to me. I discovered that there was a good three (3) feet of cable to each valve when only maybe 18 inches was really needed. When you pushed or pulled these cables the cable housing would move all over the place. I also made two brackets that mounted to the bottom of the floor and would hold the cables pretty straight so that they would not move. Sorry that you are having to work with a dealer that shrugs customers off like that.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:46 PM   #10
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I ordered a Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve.

It's a "Band--Aid" and I want a permanent fix.

I am pretty sure I have a cable from the valve handle to the valve itself.

I wish I knew more about all this!!!

Thank you all for your help.
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Steve & Pat, "Diesel" the Boxer, and "Molly" the Scotty
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:52 PM   #11
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Also, look where the handle is. You will see a hex nut, which can be adjuated in or out a little. It is very possible that a PO has it so tight that the blade simply cannot close completely.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:54 PM   #12
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Good thinking! I will check that out in the morning.

Question: Why are all you folks so helpful while CWMB has abandoned me? I'd hate to think there are other problems they are avoiding?!

Thank you!
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2014 Cedar Creek Silverback 33RL
2008 Dodge 3500 6.7L Diesel, Quad Cab, 4x4, dually, long bed.
Steve & Pat, "Diesel" the Boxer, and "Molly" the Scotty
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2016: 9 Nights camping
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Old 08-17-2016, 05:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swbouton View Post

Question: Why are all you folks so helpful while CWMB has abandoned me? I'd hate to think there are other problems they are avoiding?!

Thank you!
Because we don't have to fix it for free
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Old 08-17-2016, 05:39 PM   #14
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Not quite .. because I paid for it in advance and it cuts into the profit.
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2014 Cedar Creek Silverback 33RL
2008 Dodge 3500 6.7L Diesel, Quad Cab, 4x4, dually, long bed.
Steve & Pat, "Diesel" the Boxer, and "Molly" the Scotty
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Bought camper 7/14/16
2016: 9 Nights camping
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:53 PM   #15
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If camping world won't fix it then call Forest River and ask them to either refer you to a dealer that will or if they'll let you bring out a mobile RV tech to fix it for you. My past experiences with Camping World has lead me to never consider them for any work on my rig.


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Old 08-17-2016, 09:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtaylor1920 View Post
If camping world won't fix it then call Forest River and ask them to either refer you to a dealer that will or if they'll let you bring out a mobile RV tech to fix it for you. My past experiences with Camping World has lead me to never consider them for any work on my rig.
Remember... He bought it USED. Any repairs other than where he purchased are going to be out of pocket unless FR is feeling awfully generous.
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Old 08-17-2016, 09:25 PM   #17
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Hi,

In response to the original question, I have the identical unit and year, and have never had that problem.

Hope this helps.

Rich Phillips
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Old 08-17-2016, 09:29 PM   #18
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I had seen the Valterra gate valve awhile back and wanted DH to get one and use it, "just in case". It took awhile, but he did get one and it came in VERY handy when our black tank pull valve broke (in the open position). I'm hoping your problem can be permanently fixed but DH now keeps that Valterra on always. Just another layer of "precaution" that is almost never needed but when it is needed, it's invaluable.
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:02 PM   #19
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Remember... He bought it USED. Any repairs other than where he purchased are going to be out of pocket unless FR is feeling awfully generous.

Oops, missed the year. You are right, Forest River won't be of any help on this one. You are correct in going back to the dealer and if they told me they noticed it during the checkout and didn't fix it then I'd be talking to the sales manager pretty darn quick. Good luck.


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Old 08-17-2016, 10:19 PM   #20
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Gate Valve

I always put one on my rig. Just in case. Cheap and works great!
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