Black Water Valve Replacement

[pschweitzer]

New to this forum. I bought a 2015 Blue Ridge 3600RS about a year and a half ago when I needed to move from VA to Texas (work moved and family did not). My black water valve has always been hard to pull (Bristol cable type). Back in July I noted that the black water valve was leaking (not fully closing). I put a spin on valve on the outlet and left the black water valve open in hopes that I would eventually clear any debris past the gate. This has not helped even after many flushes and I only have liquid waste in the tank since July. I have an access flap I made in the belly that I cut last fall when I found that all the heater hoses in that area were stuffed around the waste lines and most (all) were ripped so no heat in the bedroom and had to aluminum tape or splice the hose (thanks Forest River). I can put my hands on the black water valve, but all the hoses are routed there, leaving no access to the bolts without cutting another hole on the other side of the plumbing and doing some more hose work.

I guess what I am asking is if there is a simple solution to this problem or do I need to take the rig in and get this fixed. Would a mobile tech be able to do anything onsite? Since I live in this RV I would rather leave it in place because the logistics of scheduling around a trip home is a nightmare sometimes. Any suggestions would be most appreciated

[Bama Rambler]

Replacing the valve (or very least the cable assembly) is about your only option.

A mobile tech can replace it in place, but they'll want it flushed very well.

They will most likely have to cut another access flap in the underbelly, but that's easily repaired.

I cut a hole in our old unit and repaired it with Gorilla Tape, and it was holding like new thet day we sold it.

[Thurman]

My previous camper had this problem, a 2005 FR Grand Surveyor. What I found was that the cable was approximately three feet (3') long but the distance from the black water valve handle to the valve was about twenty inches (20"). The cable was in a big circle so to speak. The bracket for both the grey and black water valves was mounted to a large piece of plastic skirting on the side which also flexed. I would up making a new mount for the handles, cut into the underbelly cover and bolted the new mount to the underside of the TT floor. I also shortened the cable housing and cables so that it was somewhat of a straight shot between the handles and the valves. While doing all of this I removed both valves for a good cleaning, inspection, and lube. After that the valves never leaked again.