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Old 09-19-2015, 02:56 PM   #11
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If you have an ice maker open the fittings on each side of the valve to drain the water
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Old 09-19-2015, 03:37 PM   #12
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Empty WH, switch to by-pass, open low point drains, remove water filter, turn on air and start to open every valve from close to city water connection to the furthest. No mist from any, shut off air, put AF down all drains and bowl. Have a beer!
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Old 09-19-2015, 06:00 PM   #13
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The best part about blowing the water lines out is when you have a nice weekend in the winter you can go camping. When you get home just blow the lines out again
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Old 09-20-2015, 07:02 AM   #14
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The best part about blowing the water lines out is when you have a nice weekend in the winter you can go camping. When you get home just blow the lines out again
We just bought our first camper and this makes the most sense to me...

Joe
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:23 AM   #15
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There is already a thread going about using Compressed Air to Winterize !!!
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:14 AM   #16
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Air to clear lines

I see all the answers giving the advantages, and cautions, on using compressed air to clear water lines. One main item I have not seen covered is what would be the maximum air pressure be to do this with. Since we use water regulators set at 55psi is this what pressure would be the max to clear out lines with?
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:23 AM   #17
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I think 35 to 50 is the range most use !!!
I would never go over 50 psi !!!
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:34 AM   #18
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I open one faucet at a time to get maximum air pressure in that line.
My method also. Done it for three years and I live where it goes to -30C. Antifreeze into the drains though and toilet etc.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:39 AM   #19
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After you blow out your lines...

The plastic lines in an RV are flexible enough to withstand small amounts of water freezing. The problem is water collected in the faucets/taps will freeze and damage the faucets. When you are done blowing out your lines leave the faucets all the way open to prevent damage from residual moisture freezing. Friend of mine learned this the hard way when found his faucet knobs laying in his sinks after a hard freeze.

The sink and shower drains "p traps" need to be treated with antifreeze. To save a trip to the store you can use the automotive type because you won't be drinking out of the galley/grey tanks.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:24 PM   #20
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I have used the air only method with a Layton 24 foot. I removed the water pump each time as the seals will still have water in them and may crack when cold. i used windshield washer solvent in the traps. It freezes but not solid and is cheaper than "the pink stuff". I would not try this with my Cruise Lite 29 foot. I do both air and antifreeze.
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