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Old 06-27-2014, 11:27 AM   #1
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Blown out anti-siphon valve?

I have a new anti-siphon valve on order from Lakeview RV supply in Texas. I noticed water pouring from around the two cold water lines leading up thru the basement into the cabinet below the bathroom sink. I'm hoping the check valve is the culprit altho the valve itself looks fine. Maybe they just get hung up and let water and don't let the water bypass to the tank. I realize there have been threads regarding cutting the valve out and using two 90's and a section of 1/2" pex clamped in place, but the dealers have said NO it's not advisable. Don't mind the ramblings. I guess I'm just thinking aloud here.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:02 AM   #2
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Look down about 21 post below and u will get ur answer. Don't know how to make the link to it.


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Old 07-04-2014, 06:08 AM   #3
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Anti-siphon/back flow preventer required to keep black water in the tank and out of your hose (and off the roads) when the flusher is not in use.

If the valve is bad, you can replace it with a new one (or a different type); but do not bypass it.
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Old 07-04-2014, 06:36 AM   #4
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Mine is bad too. I tried to use the black tank flush and it poured water under the bathroom sink. I still need to buy one though.
I did research the ATMOSPHERIC VACUUM BREAKER/
CHECK VALVE
(571 Vac Chk)
"bottom of page"

I see them for sale on this Amazon link.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:21 AM   #5
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To (Eliminate Floods Inside) your RV from these (Cheap made/not price Backflow/Check valves), replace with (flow thru fitting)! Now just use a (Screw on garden hose backflow adapter on the (OUTSIDE) hose fitting, (The one that says-BLACK TANK FLUSH)! Now when and if it LEAKS,(Who cares) its OUTSIDE! Your unit your choice? Youroo!!
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:35 AM   #6
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So.... You are saying remove the valve from under the sink and connect the 2 pipes together with an "elbow"????
Then use what type of exterior valve?
Do you have a pic and a link to a suitable replacement?
Thank you,
crunchman
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
To (Eliminate Floods Inside) your RV from these (Cheap made/not price Backflow/Check valves), replace with (flow thru fitting)! Now just use a (Screw on garden hose backflow adapter on the (OUTSIDE) hose fitting, (The one that says-BLACK TANK FLUSH)! Now when and if it LEAKS,(Who cares) its OUTSIDE! Your unit your choice? Youroo!!
Just never drive with the black tank fluid level above the turbo nozzle.

One of the reasons it is a vacuum break in addition to a check valve is the "Anti-Siphon" part of its name.

If the outside cover should leak or come off, the wind flowing over the hose connection will create a Venturi suction and actually suck the black water out of your tank and down the side of your camper.

The Vacuum break will allow cabin air to enter the pipe to the outside to prevent that.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:39 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by crunchman12001 View Post
So.... You are saying remove the valve from under the sink and connect the 2 pipes together with an "elbow"????
Then use what type of exterior valve?
Do you have a pic and a link to a suitable replacement?
Thank you,
crunchman
You of course can do what you want, but I would spend the 40 bucks and get a correct replacement.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:41 AM   #9
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I just use the external. Had one leak in wall, and 2 under bathroom sinks. Our SB did it first use. I've cut every one of them out as they are garbage. Not worth the risk. The ones you can put at the external inlet can be found at lowes or HD.


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Old 07-04-2014, 07:45 AM   #10
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Just never drive with the black tank fluid level above the turbo nozzle. One of the reasons it is a vacuum break in addition to a check valve is the "Anti-Siphon" part of its name. If the outside cover should leak or come off, the wind flowing over the hose connection will create a Venturi suction and actually suck the black water out of your tank and down the side of your camper. The Vacuum break will allow cabin air to enter the pipe to the outside to prevent that.
Lou, you are confusing this redneck, my black tank flush is above the black tank and has a back flow preventer on it. Does the black tank roof vent prevent the syphon?
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:48 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by crunchman12001 View Post
So.... You are saying remove the valve from under the sink and connect the 2 pipes together with an "elbow"????
Then use what type of exterior valve?
Do you have a pic and a link to a suitable replacement?
Thank you,
crunchman
Look up (Valtera Hydroflush) they have the garden hose anti-siphon valve (pictured). I found mine at a Hardware store. I also have (Male threaded Plugs) on ALL of my outside fittings,the (Rubber Push Caps) are a Joke,and to keep Clean! Youroo!!
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:52 AM   #12
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What I was always thinking. When you consider the tiny jet holes, location of the nozzle in the tank, the vent, routing or our pex (above tank level after nozzle), there is just no real way it'll siphon. Been gutting them for 7 campers and never a problem, even without the external anti siphon valve.


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Old 07-04-2014, 08:02 AM   #13
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Same way here,but the screw on/off (Anti-siphon Valve) is just for (Compliance to Pluming Codes)? Youroo!! I have never had or seen (Black Crap) running down the side of a RV flush port,that was PROPERLY installed above the Black tank! Youroo!!
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Old 07-04-2014, 12:38 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
You of course can do what you want, but I would spend the 40 bucks and get a correct replacement.
I have no problem spending the $40, was not sure if there was a better way?
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Old 07-04-2014, 02:58 PM   #15
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I ended up ordering mine directly from the manufacturer, Lakeview RV Supplies. $35 including UPS shipping. It solved my leakage problem but as others have stated, they've replaced more than one. Next time around maybe I'll try the chop N' drop and be done with it.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:34 PM   #16
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Lou, you are confusing this redneck, my black tank flush is above the black tank and has a back flow preventer on it. Does the black tank roof vent prevent the syphon?
They are talking about removing the vacuum break and only using a check valve at the outside connection when flushing. The roof vent will not prevent a siphon if the water gets into the hose while traveling wind can siphon the water out just like it sucks the water through the fresh tank vent.
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:23 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
They are talking about removing the vacuum break and only using a check valve at the outside connection when flushing. The roof vent will not prevent a siphon if the water gets into the hose while traveling wind can siphon the water out just like it sucks the water through the fresh tank vent.
First off the backflow preventer has nothing to do with vacuum. It is basically a mechanical stopper switch that is spring loaded to the reverse flow (closed) position and is only actuated to allow flow in only one direction when pressure (water/air) is applied against the spring which is attached to the stopper. If the above statement was true I believe the Turbo Flush aftermarket system would not work. It does work, I have used it. The factory installed system routes the tubing up into the interior of the unit (mine is routed at least 5 feet above the black tank) where the backflow preventer is installed (don't think the preventer is required in my installation with the routing of the tubing being as is). The fresh water tank will syphon as stated but it is the vent that the syphoning takes place (tank is otherwise a closed system). A simple loop in the vent tubing stopped this in my coach. There is, to me, much a do about this subject and a lot of it is urban legend and speculation and I'm probably guilty of enhancing that myself. Anyway, I think I am correct with my input. Maybe not. I'm done.
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