Brand new 5er black dump valve stuck

thor · 10-31-2014, 08:48 PM

so just picked up new 2014 silverback 29RE last weekend. went to dump out the liquids after winterizing and the black valve will not budge. its cable operated and with the enclosed belly im not sure how to troubleshoot it. dealer is an hour away so if its something simple i will fix it myself. Anyone ever experiance this on a brand new RV? Also can you remove just one section of the underbelly to see whats going on or do you have to start at the rear and work ur way forward? thx for any help

Taranwanderer · 10-31-2014, 08:54 PM

I would bet your cable is binding. Take a look at how the cable is routed--sometimes the factory techs route these things around turns, even looping the extra cable in a coil. They work best when it's as straight a pull as possible. Maybe try some lube on the actual valve itself, too?

This is why I wanted nothing to do with cable actuated valves and went right to electric actuated ones. Push button, valve opens...push button, valve closes.

thor · 10-31-2014, 09:00 PM

Yeah i was wondering if it was binding but its completely solid no movement whatsoever. Cant see the routing of the cable as its all enclosed in the underbelly. Im wondering about the electric valves also as there seems to be a lot of issues with the cable operated ones but it sure sucks to drop all this money and have to re engineer crap on a new rig.

DDC · 10-31-2014, 09:38 PM

Think I would be telling the dealer to come and repair the item he missed will prepping the unit.

thor · 11-01-2014, 09:27 AM

I will call today and see what they have to say. Too bad you always have a to do list of repairs that needs to be done on a new unit. Things like this should never make it past inspection

SKnight · 11-01-2014, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thor

Yeah i was wondering if it was binding but its completely solid no movement whatsoever. Cant see the routing of the cable as its all enclosed in the underbelly. Im wondering about the electric valves also as there seems to be a lot of issues with the cable operated ones but it sure sucks to drop all this money and have to re engineer crap on a new rig.

Welcome to Forest River ownership. Just wait, you'll take it back to your dealer and it will be time to winterize it again before you get it back.

Witch Doctor · 11-01-2014, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thor

so just picked up new 2014 silverback 29RE last weekend. went to dump out the liquids after winterizing and the black valve will not budge. its cable operated and with the enclosed belly im not sure how to troubleshoot it. dealer is an hour away so if its something simple i will fix it myself. Anyone ever experiance this on a brand new RV? Also can you remove just one section of the underbelly to see whats going on or do you have to start at the rear and work ur way forward? thx for any help

You cut the bottom and make an inspection whole 3 sided if you know where the valve is located and then just tape it back up. that is all the dealer will do they will not drop the whole bottom. It's pretty then stuff. I'm still tapping wholes were lippert installed some hydraulic lines and around them. No quality anymore. The cable must be hung up on something.

thor · 11-01-2014, 09:58 AM

Yah that's what I'm afraid of. Both leaving it at the dealer forever and the hack job that I will most likely get back. It doesn't seem to matter what you buy or how much you spend anymore you always have to fix it in order to use it. Well I'm gonna dig into it myself today and see what I can figure out. I will post results later when I have some. Thx for the reply

SKnight · 11-01-2014, 10:03 AM

When I had to reengineer my fresh tank framework it took me five minutes to let the belly shield down and roll it back so I could work, I didn't cut a thing. It would really irritate me to find out they started hacking away when the could move it so easily.

thor · 11-01-2014, 10:08 AM

That's exactly what I'm going for. No way I'm gonna hack a hole in my new rig. That's what I'd expect from the RV techs. Thx for the info. It was raining yesturday so I didn't look to see how the underbelly came apart but today it's all mine lol

GASPEDDLER · 11-01-2014, 10:12 AM

This along with saving money might be another good argument for buying a previously owned unit. Let someone else handle the bug fixes and take the initial depreciation hit.

coffeebean43140 · 11-01-2014, 10:25 AM

I have installed 3 of these on a previous FW and it was a learning experience. What I learned may help you out. The way they assemble during installation it was easy as pie to get the cable and the shield bound up right at the valve when you tighten up the bracket. My best guess is to remove the under belly cover to access the valve it self, not a terrible job if you have a decent place to work on it. I know it under warranty and the choice is yours. I have repaired several items on my TT because I live 60 miles from the dealer and as we all know nothing gets done in just one trip to the dealer, so once again the choice is yours. Another plus is when you drop the cover you know what's there. Good Luck

SKnight · 11-01-2014, 10:44 AM

Can't speak exactly for your Silverback, but on my Sierra I had to remove the shield in front of the axles to access the fresh tank. It was screwed to the front storage bin in such a way that I couldn't get to those, I assume that's where they attached the shield first then folded it back. I popped the shield off those screws, I have to take my LP hardline loose which was the hose, one big nut and about four clamps down the frame. Then it was a series of 3/8" headed screws. Once loose I had a helper grab the opposite side as me and we just drug it back, it folded up and just laid there in front of the axles. I could have serviced my valves if needed, since tanks are usually in front of the axles I'd guess you're the same way.

The shield was totally out of the way and I didn't cut a thing.

thor · 11-01-2014, 01:30 PM

I seem to have it fixed now! So I had to drop the LP lines so I could drop the two front belly panels. Couldnt remove them as the sewer drain came through one and the front one has three screws at the front that arent accessable. Once panels were hanging i slit open the insulation to access the valve and cable. The cable routing is only partially visable and then bends up over the black tank and I cant tell what it does up there, hopefully not a bunch of loops to use up excess cable. Anyway i straightened it out slightly where it hooks up to the valve and wiggled it around on the other end where it goes up through the floor and it works now. Im going to try and tie it up with zip ties to keep it as straight as possible going to the valve and hopefully it wont happen again. Gonna foil tape the insulation radiant bag back together and reassemble now. Glad I didnt take it in for warranty. Prob would have been a huge hack job if they did it. Thx for your responses and info.

coffeebean43140 · 11-01-2014, 01:33 PM

Congratulations, that's good news. Happy camping

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Rivnut · 11-01-2014, 01:50 PM

I got a new Forest River product and the dealer was from hell, no prep, didn't know how stuff worked, no dump hose installed, black tank would not shut off completely, we are in NM by the time we figure out the problem. Dealer kept it two months, factory has it one month,,,out of six.......!

Jerry01 · 11-01-2014, 01:58 PM

As others have said, now you know what it looks like up there. And I'm sure you did a better job than the dealer would have. Glad it's all fixed. Jerry.

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Witch Doctor · 11-01-2014, 03:03 PM

Great your done, and lets hope you never have to open it again but now you know, I little silver foil tape and your back together. I know the dealer would have cut holes all over, they really do not know what they are doing at least most of them. They pay these guy's $7.50 an hour and they really do not care. Some are very good but they are rare....

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