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Old 07-29-2013, 07:39 PM   #1
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Broken Black Water Flange

I have a sinking feeling this is a bad one. I bottomed out my 2011 Flagstaff HW27 pop-up and broke the valve lever. That would have been easy to repair but I just learned the flange (I think that's what it is) exiting the tank is broken. See picture. There is a rubber coupling but unfortunately it did not fail first. Is this a tank replacement or can it be repaired?

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Mike
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:16 PM   #2
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Based on your pic, I'm thinking "new tank." Unless a new one can be glued to the outside somehow, but I'd be leery of that if I had it done. Maybe someone has has more experience?
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:31 PM   #3
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New tank. The fittings will be welded on.
Buying a new tank might not be much fun but imagine a repaired tank failing at the campsite.
Repairing plastic that has been exposed to the elements or "other stuff" is virtually impossible.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:53 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. Has anyone ever replaced a black water tank? I assume this is no longer a DIY. Any idea on cost?

Mike
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Old 08-09-2013, 03:49 PM   #5
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This is ending up to be a DIY. The tank itself isn't too bad regarding cost, $137 + shipping but the dealer says it will be a 5 hour job. The tank is above the plywood floor and below the toilet/shower pan so that needs to come out to get to the tank. Dealer claims about $1000-$1200. I'm pretty comfortable with this type of work so I'm going to do it. Wish me luck!

Mike
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:06 PM   #6
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Good luck and take lots of pictures.
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:55 PM   #7
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Finally got the new tank. Thought I would share the replacement sequence, which I wish I would have had going into this.

I'll share the problem first.

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The toilet and shower tray needs to be removed to access the tank. Here is where I started. I removed the hard walls to get better access.

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Here the toilet is removed. I had to cut the vent plumbing to unscrew it from the fittings. Instead of buying all new vent plumbing I used a coupler to fuse it back together when re-assembling. Access to the shower drain plumbing (lower right) is underneath after removing a protective cover. This must be removed to get the shower tray out.

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I removed the toilet flange with my DIY tool.

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Here I have removed the shower tray. This part sucked. The screws are easy but all that caulking is tough to break loose. I had to remove the towel bar and soap tray to get the shower tray out but no big deal. The new tank is in.

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From here it's just reversing the process. This entire process took about 4 hours, including replacing the waste valve and all associated plumbing. Total cost about $300.

I hope this is helpful to someone

Mike
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:12 AM   #8
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Glad to hear your problem has been repaired, hopefully you can still get to enjoy your Flagstaff this year. Nice job with the repair.
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:39 AM   #9
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I repaired my tank with a crack about the same as yours. The product is called Plasti- mend. cost about $50.00. Tanks Been working great. I'm just saying this to let others know there are other alteritives to pulling black tank.
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
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I repaired my tank with a crack about the same as yours. The product is called Plasti- mend. cost about $50.00. Tanks Been working great. I'm just saying this to let others know there are other alteritives to pulling black tank.
Where were you about a month ago? Although I'm not sure I would trust a repair with such an extensive crack. I feel better about it being new. I also added a pipe hanger underneath near the waste valve fastened to the frame which it did not have originally. Probably contributed to the failure

Mike
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