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Old 05-18-2014, 04:55 PM   #1
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Camco antifreeze problem ?

Two weeks ago, I started to drain the antifreeze from my Windjammer. The cold water inlet bypass vave on the hot water tank did not open. Snapped the handle off. Pex plumbing so I returned to the dealer. They replaced the valve and told me that the front grey water elbow by the drain valve was cracked. Had them replace it also. Continuing draining and sanitizing the water system, I found the rear grey water dump valve and elbow also cracked. The kitchen faucet was also cracked and leaking badly.

When I winterize, I gravity drain the whole system, including the filter canister, then blow air through the whole system. Then using the water pump, I charge the whole system with antifreeze, flowing pink out each water outlet for at least 30 seconds.

This past fall, I used Camco brand antifreeze bought at the local Ace Hardware.

With all of these joints and faucet cracked, I am assuming I got a bad batch of antifreeze, Has anyone else experience problems like mine with this product ?
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:07 PM   #2
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Questions: Did you use the antifreeze full strength ?? Did you use the siphon hose instead of pumping it from the fresh water tank ?? When blowing the lines, did you blow through both cold and hot water lines at each faucet ??

Other than those questions, I don't have a clue.
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:17 PM   #3
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I blow all lines through the low point drains and then faucets. Full stregnth right from the bottle. My Windjammer has an antifreeze inlet at the pump so you can suck it from the bottle using the water pump.

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Old 05-18-2014, 05:40 PM   #4
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I do the same thing except I use the cheap pink stuff from Walmart. I kept an electric heater on a low setting all winter since the temps were really bad.

Not sure what else could have happened with yours. You either didn't winterized it properly (it sounds like you did), or you had antifreeze that just couldn't keep up with the temps.
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:55 AM   #5
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Blowing out the lines from the low point drains is a bad technique in my opinion. Not only do you run the risk of blowing debris into your faucets, valves, and toilet flush valve; you will never get all the water out of your camper's pex lines. The city water check valve will still contain trapped water and could damage it.

A better technique (again in my opinion), is to use a city water adapter and blow the low pressure air in from the top, forcing water and debris out the low point drain.

Your technique allows significant pure water to be left in the system which will dilute the product and render its freezing point too high for a safe winterization.

Failing to drain your dump manifold, P-traps, and black/gray/fresh water tanks during winterization will also cause problems as you have discovered.

Here is a home made one. There are also commercial fittings.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:16 AM   #6
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Not sure if he blew the lines through the low point drains. I think he meant through the shore water and fresh tank inlets and let everything drain out of the low points. When I blow my lines out, everything is closed except the low drain points. The goal is to drain whatever water is left between the inlets and the other ends...then suck pink stuff through the pump.
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:37 PM   #7
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Yes, through the city water inlet using the third style adapter that you have shown. I go through the low poits first to get the majority out. then individual faucets to get the water left in them. The only thing that I did not do is drain the gret tanks again after blowing the lines. I can see if water settled in the tank drain points causing that damage. But that does not explain the damage done to the sink faucet, the second highest spigot in the unit. The shower is the tallest outlet and there was no damage done there.

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