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Old 02-11-2017, 02:19 PM   #21
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x2 watts

Break down and get a watts or eqiv. Here is our ratsnest with a watts. Tapped into the incoming city water past the check valve. Added master shut off, line and shut off for ice maker, and a faucet. Why all this? So at little league where the genny is running for hours we can make ice from house water while the ac is making air ice.

I am not a plumber, just a recovering engineer.
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:31 PM   #22
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Where can you get the Watts regulator? Their website only lists plumbing supply dealers in my area.
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:53 PM   #23
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You really shouldn't have to spend that kind of money and then look for adaptors. Every RV store carries what you need, which is a regulator that fits a garden hose faucet, not threaded pipe like the device you have linked to. I think previous responders sort of talked around one of your main questions: why is a regulator needed?. RV water systems are made of soft plastic tubing, not the hard stuff you have in your house. As stated, the max pressure that tubing can handle is about 60 lbs. City water can be up to double that. High water pressure in your RV can rupture the tubing, and that makes quite a mess. Go to an RV supply store or look online ad Camping World or any other RV store and you'll find exactly what you need. I use one without the gauge, but I do check the pressure with a separate gauge, also available at the RV store, just to be sure I'm not reducing pressure more than necessary. Also, I've found that when a regulator goes bad, it over-reduces water pressure, so when the faucet dribbles, time to get a new regulator.
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:56 PM   #24
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Keep in mind, the PRVs I use are "real" PRVs and not the in-line water restricting type they sell at the RV dealers. You can purchase smaller "real" PRVs that you can connect to your hose. Search at Watts Regulator for the best solution.

Here you go: LFH560 Lead Free* Mini Brass Water Pressure Regulators with Hose Connections, Water Pressure Reducing Valves - Small Capacity, Water Safety & Flow Control - Watts
That web site lists repair parts. That might not be worthwhile for a plumber paid by the hour (unless you're the plumber ) but could be feasible approach for RVers with time and tools.
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:58 PM   #25
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Check the rvwaterfilterstore, I like the 263a. But I have not bought from them so I cant validate.
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:12 PM   #26
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That web site lists repair parts. That might not be worthwhile for a plumber paid by the hour (unless you're the plumber ) but could be feasible approach for RVers with time and tools.


I don't understand what you're talking about. That link takes you to the Watts LF560 pressure regulator page on Watts' website. You can't purchase it there, but all of the technical information is available there. You can buy it at a plumbing supply house or many online vendors, including Amazon.

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Old 02-11-2017, 05:28 PM   #27
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why is a regulator needed?. RV water systems are made of soft plastic tubing, not the hard stuff you have in your house. As stated, the max pressure that tubing can handle is about 60 lbs. City water can be up to double that. High water pressure in your RV can rupture the tubing, and that makes quite a mess. .
Misinformation. All of it! The tubing used in RV water systems is PEX - the same PEX used in a lot of new residential home construction. It can handle working pressures much higher than 60psi. When we test a newly installed system, we use a hydrostatic pump to get the pressure up to 160psi with cold water.

Think about this: When the T&P valve on your RV's water heater begins to drip, it is because the pressure has exceeded 150psi due to the expansion from the water being heated. That 150psi isn't just in your water heater, it is in your entire water system (in some systems, just the hot side). How many times have all of your pipes blown apart from this pressure?

RV water systems can handle a lot more pressure than most people think.

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Old 02-11-2017, 05:32 PM   #28
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Misinformation. All of it! The tubing used in RV water systems is PEX - the same PEX used in a lot of new residential home construction. It can handle working pressures much higher than 60psi. When we test a newly installed system, we use a hydrostatic pump to get the pressure up to 160psi with cold water.

Think about this: When the T&P valve on your RV's water heater begins to drip, it is because the pressure has exceeded 150psi due to the expansion from the water being heated. That 150psi isn't just in your water heater, it is in your entire water system (in some systems, just the hot side). How many times have all of your pipes blown apart from this pressure?

RV water systems can handle a lot more pressure than most people think.

Bruce
So then, would you say it is a waste of money to buy a regulator?
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:41 PM   #29
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So then, would you say it is a waste of money to buy a regulator?
Not necessarily. I guess it all depends on your level of comfort and what you believe is a safe working pressure.

I have never used a PRV on my RVs and have never had an issue. The water pressure at my previous home was 120psi and I left my RV hooked up to water and electric in the driveway all season long for four years and never had a problem. My RV is currently on a seasonal site where the pressure is 80psi. I'm not worried about it. But I'm comfortable with it because I have done nothing but plumbing since 1982 and I know the system in my RV is perfectly capable of handling 80psi. Heck, it spikes up to 150psi several times a day while the water heater is on.

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Old 02-11-2017, 05:55 PM   #30
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Not necessarily. I guess it all depends on your level of comfort and what you believe is a safe working pressure.

I have never used a PRV on my RVs and have never had an issue. The water pressure at my previous home was 120psi and I left my RV hooked up to water and electric in the driveway all season long for four years and never had a problem. My RV is currently on a seasonal site where the pressure is 80psi. I'm not worried about it. But I'm comfortable with it because I have done nothing but plumbing since 1982 and I know the system in my RV is perfectly capable of handling 80psi. Heck, it spikes up to 150psi several times a day while the water heater is on.

Bruce

Good info here, and from someone who knows what he is talking about....glad to get it straight....
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:21 PM   #31
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Dont bother with the Forest River mmanuals or the on line version,they are generic and totally worthless.
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:56 PM   #32
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For the quality, reliability, country of manufacture and my confidence in the brand, I prefer the Watts, but the Valterra is half the price, so I can see why it would appeal to many. I imagine the Valterra will do what it is supposed to. I would rather have a valve made of milled red brass any day over one made of cast yellow brass.

Bruce
Thanks for your reply and additions to this topic.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:43 PM   #33
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Can a basic water pressure regulator go bad(travel trailer)

I had a lot of problems with the Valterra unit. I had to return 3 of them to Amazon. They told me not to bother with the 4th one, they just gave me my money back. They all failed after about a week. The regulator itself was fine, all the failures were the metal of the input connector. It cracks, leaks and then breaks.
If you buy one it's easy to fix if you act quickly. You can remove the connector, go HD or Lowes and get a replacement. That one won't fail.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:49 PM   #34
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I had a lot of problems with the Valterra unit. I had to return 3 of them to Amazon. They told me not to bother with the 4th one, they just gave me my money back. They all failed after about a week. The regulator itself was fine, all the failures were the metal of the input connector. It cracks, leaks and then breaks.
If you buy one it's easy to fix if you act quickly. You can remove the connector, go HD or Lowes and get a replacement. That one won't fail.
Thanks for the heads up on the Valterra unit. Looks like the Watts is worth the extra $$.
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Old 02-12-2017, 12:36 AM   #35
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I don't understand what you're talking about.
Sorry if I wasn't clear. In the table below the image of the regulator there's a tab for repair parts. I didn't intend to suggest that's all there was - only that apparently you can repair that type of regulator, rather than replace it. That probably wouldn't be worthwhile to you in your professional capacity but an RV owner might do better repairing than replacing.

Your recommended regulator is now on my to-do list. I have only the brass inline cylinder type, thinking that being brass rather than plastic made it better.

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Old 02-12-2017, 07:00 AM   #36
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all the failures were the metal of the input connector. It cracks, leaks and then breaks.
The difference between milled (or cast) red brass and cast yellow brass.

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Old 02-12-2017, 07:09 AM   #37
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Sorry if I wasn't clear. In the table below the image of the regulator there's a tab for repair parts. I didn't intend to suggest that's all there was - only that apparently you can repair that type of regulator, rather than replace it. That probably wouldn't be worthwhile to you in your professional capacity but an RV owner might do better repairing than replacing.

Your recommended regulator is now on my to-do list. I have only the brass inline cylinder type, thinking that being brass rather than plastic made it better.

Now I understand. Thank you! Yes, most of Watts' products are repairable - some easier than others, but this particular PRV should be quite simple. The hardest part would probably be compressing the spring as you try to screw the cap back on, but I'm sure most people could handle it.

And you are correct in assuming that most plumbers would not waste the time to repair a PRV. There are so many different types out there with an infinite number of different parts that it just isn't equitable for the plumber or the customer. We just replace them.

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Old 02-12-2017, 07:20 AM   #38
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Thanks for your reply and additions to this topic.
You're welcome. I love talking about plumbing - it's all I know. I really should have listened to my parents and gone to college.

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Old 02-12-2017, 08:15 AM   #39
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The first question would be how is 45 PSI insufficient?

Are you showering , doing a wash , cleaning dishes all at the same time?

If the onboard 12 v pump is sufficient , the camp pressure hose should be at least equal.
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Old 02-12-2017, 08:42 AM   #40
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Yeesh... Lots of over thinking here. Get a cheap high flow 55psi regulator at any RV store and go camping. Has worked for us for the last five rigs
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