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Old 09-17-2016, 07:17 PM   #1
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Can I move toilet flange?

I was hoping to replace Dometic 310 toilet with 320 model, but flange is 1" off.
Is there any easy way to move it?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:31 PM   #2
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Is the newer model (320) bigger than the previous model (310)?

I don't understand how the flange can be off. You're talking about the flange on the floor?
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:42 PM   #3
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It's more than likely that the flange is attached directly to the black tank, so you'd have to move the black tank, too.

The manual says you need 10" clearance to the back for the 310 and 11" clearance for the 320. So I'm assuming you don't have an extra 1 inch behind the 310 as it's installed?
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:14 PM   #4
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Yes 320 is bigger, elongated.
There is no room behind 310.
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:17 PM   #5
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you can get an offset toilet flange
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Old 09-18-2016, 06:08 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by davel1971 View Post
you can get an offset toilet flange
An offset flange will offset to a maximum of 2". If you want to offset only 1" forward, you will have to also offset to the left or right an inch or so (think cam). Also, offset flanges require much more depth than a standard closet flange and require you to cut an oval hole in the floor to accommodate that depth. Whether or not you can use one will depend on how much space you have between your floor and the top of the black tank. Offset flanges are very flimsy and do not last long, but if you are dead-set on using one, get one that incorporates a metal ring that will spin around the outside edge - these are much more durable than the all-plastic offset flanges and they have several more holes in them so they can be screwed to the floor to make them as secure as possible. They are also better for getting the center you are looking for. The all-plastic offset flanges are flimsy, have a limited number of screw holes, and the way they are configured limit you on exactly where you can set your center.

Good luck,

Bruce
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
An offset flange will offset to a maximum of 2". If you want to offset only 1" forward, you will have to also offset to the left or right an inch or so (think cam). Also, offset flanges require much more depth than a standard closet flange and require you to cut an oval hole in the floor to accommodate that depth. Whether or not you can use one will depend on how much space you have between your floor and the top of the black tank. Offset flanges are very flimsy and do not last long, but if you are dead-set on using one, get one that incorporates a metal ring that will spin around the outside edge - these are much more durable than the all-plastic offset flanges and they have several more holes in them so they can be screwed to the floor to make them as secure as possible. They are also better for getting the center you are looking for. The all-plastic offset flanges are flimsy, have a limited number of screw holes, and the way they are configured limit you on exactly where you can set your center.

Good luck,

Bruce
X2
An Offset flange will work. if you do not have enough depth between teh floor and the top of the black tank you can raise the level of the toilet by shimming below the toilet with a Non-Absorbant material. Exterior grade plywood could be cut to fit the outside profile of the toilet and then sealed with a polyurethane varnish so as not to absorb any liquids that could have leaked from the toilet seal.
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:17 PM   #8
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I think I would just look for a different toilet that would fit
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
An offset flange will offset to a maximum of 2". If you want to offset only 1" forward, you will have to also offset to the left or right an inch or so (think cam). Also, offset flanges require much more depth than a standard closet flange and require you to cut an oval hole in the floor to accommodate that depth. Whether or not you can use one will depend on how much space you have between your floor and the top of the black tank. Offset flanges are very flimsy and do not last long, but if you are dead-set on using one, get one that incorporates a metal ring that will spin around the outside edge - these are much more durable than the all-plastic offset flanges and they have several more holes in them so they can be screwed to the floor to make them as secure as possible. They are also better for getting the center you are looking for. The all-plastic offset flanges are flimsy, have a limited number of screw holes, and the way they are configured limit you on exactly where you can set your center.

Good luck,

Bruce


Where do you get offset flange?
Also how do you remove old flange?I guess it will be glued to black tank.
I got all screws out, but can't pull it out.
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:46 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by GMCdiesel View Post
Where do you get offset flange?
Also how do you remove old flange?I guess it will be glued to black tank.
I got all screws out, but can't pull it out.
At a plumbing supply store. It attaches to the old flange, it doesn't replace it. Hence the reason it raises the toilet height.
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:53 PM   #11
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RV flange is same like residential flange?
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Old 09-18-2016, 04:42 PM   #12
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At a plumbing supply store. It attaches to the old flange, it doesn't replace it. Hence the reason it raises the toilet height.
You buy them at a plumbing supply house. It does not attach to the old closet flange - it is a completely new, differently shaped closet flange than the standard one. You must cut off the old closet flange to install the offset flange. If it is installed properly, it does not raise the toilet height - it connects lower on the vertical pipe leading to the closet flange than a normal closet flange would.

Bruce
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Old 09-18-2016, 04:43 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by GMCdiesel View Post
RV flange is same like residential flange?
Yes.

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Old 09-18-2016, 04:51 PM   #14
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Also how do you remove old flange?I guess it will be glued to black tank.
I got all screws out, but can't pull it out.
If you had the years of experience that a good plumber has, you could chip the hub of the closet flange off of the pipe, but that is a true skill that takes practice.

Your waste pipe may be glued to the tank or it may be pushed through a gasket, but if you're having as hard of a time as it sounds like you are, I'd say its glued in. Can you see where it connects to the tank?

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Old 09-18-2016, 05:55 PM   #15
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Multiple styles are available. Study what you have and then review your options at a plumbing supply house.
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Old 09-18-2016, 06:33 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
Multiple styles are available. Study what you have and then review your options at a plumbing supply house.
Please tell me more about these multiple styles. I have been plumbing for 34 years and would sure love to learn something new about my trade.

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Old 09-18-2016, 08:16 PM   #17
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On mine I just turn the flange conter clock wise and then ,I was able to pull it out of of the black tank rubber seal.
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:10 PM   #18
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I'll try again Sunday. There is about 1/2" play between floor and flange.I'll try to twist it a little, I am not sure if it is glued to black tank.
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:47 PM   #19
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Mine was doing that to. It is the top of the black tank that is moving up 1/2 ``

I dont know for sure if it is a rubber seal ?

You have to make the decision!!!
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Old 09-25-2016, 11:02 AM   #20
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Mine is glued on.I guess I just put old toilet back and live with it.
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