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Old 01-02-2015, 05:09 PM   #1
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Chronic black valve issue

Have a 2012 CC 36RE. I had the black valved replaced just prior to 1yr warranty expiring while some other issues were being tended to. It took 2 hands to even attempt to open/close the valve. Now, about a year later, same issue. Just got back from weeklong outing and had to fight the valve. It has been getting progressively worse the last 3/4 months but now it is virtually impossible to open. On a strength scale of 1-10, it takes an 11 to open it and about 7/8 to close. Is it normal to have to change the black valve on an annual basis? Could it be how the cable is routed? Could the electric valve be my answer?REALLY DON'T WANT ANOTHER "BREAKABLE" GADGET!! Have tried the valve lube in the tank in the past with no success. Thanks in advance for the replies. Steve
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Old 01-02-2015, 05:53 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by sdagro View Post
Have a 2012 CC 36RE. I had the black valved replaced just prior to 1yr warranty expiring while some other issues were being tended to. It took 2 hands to even attempt to open/close the valve. Now, about a year later, same issue. Just got back from weeklong outing and had to fight the valve. It has been getting progressively worse the last 3/4 months but now it is virtually impossible to open. On a strength scale of 1-10, it takes an 11 to open it and about 7/8 to close. Is it normal to have to change the black valve on an annual basis? Could it be how the cable is routed? Could the electric valve be my answer?REALLY DON'T WANT ANOTHER "BREAKABLE" GADGET!! Have tried the valve lube in the tank in the past with no success. Thanks in advance for the replies. Steve
Steve, It's probably the way they routed the wire. Is it possible to add a shut off valve by cutting your pipe and add a pull valve at the the end that you connect to the the drain line like your hose and then pull it there? Just leave it open if you have the room and add a sleeve with the twist on that the new valve would be connected to. You might have to cut the drain line back a little but that would work for you. Any pull valve with a wire will give you trouble. Amazon sells them.If I knew how to to post a link I would but they just twist on like your hose. They use them for valves that leak, could be an easy refit for you. Check them out, then just leave the old one open no use in removing it.....
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Old 01-02-2015, 09:44 PM   #3
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Just wondering what type chemicals do you use in your tanks? Calgon or water softener does help with lubrication. When we first started camping my wife was a bleach-aholic and a big user of pine-sol. I learned that bleach will seize up the valves and ruin the toilet seal. Pine sol is not recommended for use in the tanks due to their make up and the rubber gaskets. I learned this from talking with the pine-sol company. Hope this helps it did when I had my issues.
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Old 01-02-2015, 10:18 PM   #4
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Steve, It's probably the way they routed the wire. Is it possible to add a shut off valve by cutting your pipe and add a pull valve at the the end that you connect to the the drain line like your hose and then pull it there? Just leave it open if you have the room and add a sleeve with the twist on that the new valve would be connected to. You might have to cut the drain line back a little but that would work for you. Any pull valve with a wire will give you trouble. Amazon sells them.If I knew how to to post a link I would but they just twist on like your hose. They use them for valves that leak, could be an easy refit for you. Check them out, then just leave the old one open no use in removing it.....
not possible with the layout of the pipes. All enclosed and I would have to crawl underneath and probably reroute pipe to get new valve in visible location. had originally thought about adding twist valve to discharge end but that would be a big no no as black water would flow back to grey and galley and would not be able to keep greys open at full hook up campsites or deem it impossible to empty greys without emptying black.
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Old 01-03-2015, 02:47 PM   #5
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There are lubricants you can add to your holding tanks to lubricate the dump valves. I have never tried them but perhaps they work.

Here is one from Camping World:
TST Drain Valve Lube - 16 oz. - Camco 40246E - Sewer Cleaners - Camping World
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:48 PM   #6
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I had problems with one gray water valve and the black water valve seizing. For the black water I had dealer shorten the cable, which seemed to be 5 miles long. I just had a gray water valve fixed by getting rid of the cable and a long rod was affixed to the valve. I talked to my guy and he said he had to turn the valve to face towards the street side of the trailer. I couldn't believe that was the way it was installed. Then he told me the black water valve is the same way. Why would anyone install those valves to face the opposite direction of the side where the open/close handles are, is beyond me. He asked for permission to drill a small hole in the frame to accommodate the new rod. So far the black water valve is working ok but if it seizes up I will have it fixed like the gray water valve is. I also have an end of line valve on the drain pipe. I put it on when the black water valve seized in the open position a couple of years ago. Had to travel over 2000 miles home before getting it fixed.
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:20 PM   #7
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There are lubricants you can add to your holding tanks to lubricate the dump valves. I have never tried them but perhaps they work.

Here is one from Camping World:
TST Drain Valve Lube - 16 oz. - Camco 40246E - Sewer Cleaners - Camping World
Obviously not the problem in my situation as I have tried this stuff on multiple occasions with no success. Thanks, Steve
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:26 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Pipeman View Post
I had problems with one gray water valve and the black water valve seizing. For the black water I had dealer shorten the cable, which seemed to be 5 miles long. I just had a gray water valve fixed by getting rid of the cable and a long rod was affixed to the valve. I talked to my guy and he said he had to turn the valve to face towards the street side of the trailer. I couldn't believe that was the way it was installed. Then he told me the black water valve is the same way. Why would anyone install those valves to face the opposite direction of the side where the open/close handles are, is beyond me. He asked for permission to drill a small hole in the frame to accommodate the new rod. So far the black water valve is working ok but if it seizes up I will have it fixed like the gray water valve is. I also have an end of line valve on the drain pipe. I put it on when the black water valve seized in the open position a couple of years ago. Had to travel over 2000 miles home before getting it fixed.
As much as I hate to slam the manufacturer, this seems like it could be the problem. I've always said "the people who build them are not the people who use them!". I wish had the know-how to tackle it myself. I know once I got to the valve could do "at least" what the original designer did. Does anyone know if the black valve on my 2012 CC 36RE is close to the tank or drain end?
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Old 01-04-2015, 02:40 AM   #9
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My Flagstaff has a soft metal pull/push black tank rod. After a few usage's the rod would warp and it wouldn't close. I almost installed the elect type untill my cousin took a look at it. We had to make a slit in the bottom cover of the RV, but after a few he came up with a outer sleeve for the soft metal rod. It has steel cotter pins at the valve and at the T-handle. It works!!! Yea we spent some time chasing it down and understanding it but boy was it worth it.
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:18 PM   #10
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I had a black water valve that got really hard to move. I took the cable loose and found the valve its self worked very easy. Yes the cable was the problem.
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