Chronic black valve issue

[sdagro]

Have a 2012 CC 36RE. I had the black valved replaced just prior to 1yr warranty expiring while some other issues were being tended to. It took 2 hands to even attempt to open/close the valve. Now, about a year later, same issue. Just got back from weeklong outing and had to fight the valve. It has been getting progressively worse the last 3/4 months but now it is virtually impossible to open. On a strength scale of 1-10, it takes an 11 to open it and about 7/8 to close. Is it normal to have to change the black valve on an annual basis? Could it be how the cable is routed? Could the electric valve be my answer?REALLY DON'T WANT ANOTHER "BREAKABLE" GADGET!! Have tried the valve lube in the tank in the past with no success. Thanks in advance for the replies. Steve

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by sdagro

Have a 2012 CC 36RE. I had the black valved replaced just prior to 1yr warranty expiring while some other issues were being tended to. It took 2 hands to even attempt to open/close the valve. Now, about a year later, same issue. Just got back from weeklong outing and had to fight the valve. It has been getting progressively worse the last 3/4 months but now it is virtually impossible to open. On a strength scale of 1-10, it takes an 11 to open it and about 7/8 to close. Is it normal to have to change the black valve on an annual basis? Could it be how the cable is routed? Could the electric valve be my answer?REALLY DON'T WANT ANOTHER "BREAKABLE" GADGET!! Have tried the valve lube in the tank in the past with no success. Thanks in advance for the replies. Steve

Steve, It's probably the way they routed the wire. Is it possible to add a shut off valve by cutting your pipe and add a pull valve at the the end that you connect to the the drain line like your hose and then pull it there? Just leave it open if you have the room and add a sleeve with the twist on that the new valve would be connected to. You might have to cut the drain line back a little but that would work for you. Any pull valve with a wire will give you trouble. Amazon sells them.If I knew how to to post a link I would but they just twist on like your hose. They use them for valves that leak, could be an easy refit for you. Check them out, then just leave the old one open no use in removing it.....

[campr-pete]

Just wondering what type chemicals do you use in your tanks? Calgon or water softener does help with lubrication. When we first started camping my wife was a bleach-aholic and a big user of pine-sol. I learned that bleach will seize up the valves and ruin the toilet seal. Pine sol is not recommended for use in the tanks due to their make up and the rubber gaskets. I learned this from talking with the pine-sol company. Hope this helps it did when I had my issues.

[sdagro]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Steve, It's probably the way they routed the wire. Is it possible to add a shut off valve by cutting your pipe and add a pull valve at the the end that you connect to the the drain line like your hose and then pull it there? Just leave it open if you have the room and add a sleeve with the twist on that the new valve would be connected to. You might have to cut the drain line back a little but that would work for you. Any pull valve with a wire will give you trouble. Amazon sells them.If I knew how to to post a link I would but they just twist on like your hose. They use them for valves that leak, could be an easy refit for you. Check them out, then just leave the old one open no use in removing it.....

not possible with the layout of the pipes. All enclosed and I would have to crawl underneath and probably reroute pipe to get new valve in visible location. had originally thought about adding twist valve to discharge end but that would be a big no no as black water would flow back to grey and galley and would not be able to keep greys open at full hook up campsites or deem it impossible to empty greys without emptying black.

[TGR]

There are lubricants you can add to your holding tanks to lubricate the dump valves. I have never tried them but perhaps they work.

Here is one from Camping World:
TST Drain Valve Lube - 16 oz. - Camco 40246E - Sewer Cleaners - Camping World

[Pipeman]

I had problems with one gray water valve and the black water valve seizing. For the black water I had dealer shorten the cable, which seemed to be 5 miles long. I just had a gray water valve fixed by getting rid of the cable and a long rod was affixed to the valve. I talked to my guy and he said he had to turn the valve to face towards the street side of the trailer. I couldn't believe that was the way it was installed. Then he told me the black water valve is the same way. Why would anyone install those valves to face the opposite direction of the side where the open/close handles are, is beyond me. He asked for permission to drill a small hole in the frame to accommodate the new rod. So far the black water valve is working ok but if it seizes up I will have it fixed like the gray water valve is. I also have an end of line valve on the drain pipe. I put it on when the black water valve seized in the open position a couple of years ago. Had to travel over 2000 miles home before getting it fixed.

[sdagro]

Originally Posted by TGR

There are lubricants you can add to your holding tanks to lubricate the dump valves. I have never tried them but perhaps they work.

Here is one from Camping World:
TST Drain Valve Lube - 16 oz. - Camco 40246E - Sewer Cleaners - Camping World

Obviously not the problem in my situation as I have tried this stuff on multiple occasions with no success. Thanks, Steve

[sdagro]

Originally Posted by Pipeman

I had problems with one gray water valve and the black water valve seizing. For the black water I had dealer shorten the cable, which seemed to be 5 miles long. I just had a gray water valve fixed by getting rid of the cable and a long rod was affixed to the valve. I talked to my guy and he said he had to turn the valve to face towards the street side of the trailer. I couldn't believe that was the way it was installed. Then he told me the black water valve is the same way. Why would anyone install those valves to face the opposite direction of the side where the open/close handles are, is beyond me. He asked for permission to drill a small hole in the frame to accommodate the new rod. So far the black water valve is working ok but if it seizes up I will have it fixed like the gray water valve is. I also have an end of line valve on the drain pipe. I put it on when the black water valve seized in the open position a couple of years ago. Had to travel over 2000 miles home before getting it fixed.

As much as I hate to slam the manufacturer, this seems like it could be the problem. I've always said "the people who build them are not the people who use them!". I wish had the know-how to tackle it myself. I know once I got to the valve could do "at least" what the original designer did. Does anyone know if the black valve on my 2012 CC 36RE is close to the tank or drain end?

[donanddona]

My Flagstaff has a soft metal pull/push black tank rod. After a few usage's the rod would warp and it wouldn't close. I almost installed the elect type untill my cousin took a look at it. We had to make a slit in the bottom cover of the RV, but after a few he came up with a outer sleeve for the soft metal rod. It has steel cotter pins at the valve and at the T-handle. It works!!! Yea we spent some time chasing it down and understanding it but boy was it worth it.

[Swift 2]

I had a black water valve that got really hard to move. I took the cable loose and found the valve its self worked very easy. Yes the cable was the problem.

[Jemma]

It appears that mine is completely stuck open. I attempted to empty the black tank today for the first time.... (if I don't post after this, it's because I died of some horrible disease I picked up after being sprayed with raw sewage).

Is there any way I can have this fixed without hauling it anywhere?

[crunchman12001]

Originally Posted by Jemma

It appears that mine is completely stuck open. I attempted to empty the black tank today for the first time.... (if I don't post after this, it's because I died of some horrible disease I picked up after being sprayed with raw sewage).

Is there any way I can have this fixed without hauling it anywhere?

Can you explain in more detail? You attempted to empty the black tank today for the first time?
Was the valve closed prior to you trying to empty it?
Are you at a full hook up site with sewer line?
You pulled the handle to open, all the stuff came out and now it will not close?
What type and year trailer do you own?
crunchman

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by crunchman12001

Can you explain in more detail? You attempted to empty the black tank today for the first time?
Was the valve closed prior to you trying to empty it?
Are you at a full hook up site with sewer line?
You pulled the handle to open, all the stuff came out and now it will not close?
What type and year trailer do you own?
crunchman

I'm also confussed with what he is saying or asking?..

[rattleNsmoke]

Jemma, You can have a portable RV service come to your site and replace the valve.

[B and B]

I have lubricated my dump valve with cooking oil. Empty the tank and pour oil down the commode. Did this several time with small amounts of a gallon each time. Lubed up the gate and all was well, also environmentally friendly.

[Pipeman]

I'm inclined to think it is not the valve but the cable itself that is the problem. The 1st time it happened to me, I was told that the cable is in a sheath as we can plainly see but it's binding in that sheath. There's a product out there that more or less oils the cable in the sheath but I can't find the product name. It has a fitting that goes on the end of the cable and it squirts up the sheath to lubricate it. As I said in a previous post, on the 1st page, I had the cable removed and a rod replace it. Good luck.

[donanddona]

Originally Posted by Jemma

It appears that mine is completely stuck open. I attempted to empty the black tank today for the first time.... (if I don't post after this, it's because I died of some horrible disease I picked up after being sprayed with raw sewage).

Is there any way I can have this fixed without hauling it anywhere?

I would add a quick connect manual valve until I could assess the situation.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGHYJS/...I2V6021HNSVE2D

I think I saw one at Wallmart.

[DaveandSue]

I had this very problem on our new Chappy.Cable finally broke right where the the cable and the handle join.When the dealer sent me a new replacement valve it had the 4' cable instead of the 6'. Works a lot better than the long cable ever did. I think it was just too long and would get cramped up in the crawl space.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by crunchman12001

Can you explain in more detail? You attempted to empty the black tank today for the first time?
Was the valve closed prior to you trying to empty it?
Are you at a full hook up site with sewer line?
You pulled the handle to open, all the stuff came out and now it will not close?
What type and year trailer do you own?
crunchman

From what he said, the black tank valve was open (unknown to him) and evidently the outlet was capped and he removed the cap and got sprayed and he cannot close the bt valve.

I suspect he will have to slit the belly pan and unkink/unhook the cable and work the valve to see if it will close.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

From what he said, the black tank valve was open (unknown to him) and evidently the outlet was capped and he removed the cap and got sprayed and he cannot close the bt valve.

I suspect he will have to slit the belly pan and unkink/unhook the cable and work the valve to see if it will close.

Makes sense, Are you going down to help? To me a cable to pull to open or close a valve is not something I would want. From last post from different people it seems FR puts in the same length of cable no matter if they have to wrap it around stuff to fit. Just don't seem right to me. I can't see why they can't re plumb it and add regular valves? I guess there is some engineer that will say it will not work. so they do it that way, and it just causes all these owners problems. I know you wouldn't stand for it, and make them change it correctly.....