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Old 03-28-2009, 10:19 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Radio View Post
Can you inspect the inside of the tank visually? Use a small flashlight to shine through the hole at night, you'll never see anything in the daytime. The anode rod is supposed to sacrifice itself and look nasty. The tank itself is stainless steel and therefore should not be too badly corroded. Cleaning the treads with a tap is a good idea! And I always carry some Teflon tape in my "box of spare stuff" so the plug wont leak whenever I drain the tank.
Many Suburban water heater tanks are steel with porcelin coating. Unless the tank has frozen and expanded a little, the porcelin coating should still be intact, therefore the inside of the tank should be corrosion free.
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:40 PM   #12
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Radio,
That's a good idea.

We use White Vinegar to remove and neutralize the Chemical Residue from our equipment. Although it does smell like a pickle for a few days, it works pretty good.


Click Here
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:55 PM   #13
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Ok, here we go. I pulled out the big guns this time...and it's not looking good.







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Old 03-28-2009, 10:58 PM   #14
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Vinegar huh? I just printed the hints and tips from that website. That's a good idea'r
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:59 PM   #15
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Material Safety Data Sheet on CLR products.

This web-site states: Septic safe and contains no phosphates
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:04 PM   #16
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Looks as though the "Doctor" has a very good examination light !!!!!!
He Heee
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:38 PM   #17
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..... http://www.luckyvitamin.com/item/?it...www.become.com


dang...it's late, shouldn't have gone there. But they did say to try vinegar, didn't they?
hehehehe
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Old 03-29-2009, 12:50 AM   #18
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Contrary to popular belief most of these tanks were made out of aluminum and do corrode easily. Ours was a '93 or '94 model with DSI on the old rig. I don't know of any that were stainless or coated with porcelain unless they were installed on really expensive rigs. They are just too costly.

You may also want to inspect any of the metal water fittings that attach to the tank. Ours had a brass check valve on it that had developed a pin hole leak due to the heavy water that had been run through the system. As we were out with the rig at the time it was quite inconvenient but a local RV parts store happend to have one.
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:14 AM   #19
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I find the dead bug to be the most troubling. Looks like a good cleaning is in order to see how much of that junk you can get out.(Including the bug!)

If it's just a bunch of mineral deposits maybe the vinegar thing will work.

If the tank is in fact lined with porcelain perhaps all that crud will break loose. (Porcelain or Stainless, I just remembered the tank wasn't supposed to corrode easily.)
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:17 AM   #20
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According to Suburban's website, the tank is porcelin coated steel. Atwood water tanks are aluminum, therefore don't require an anode rod.
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