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Old 12-06-2017, 05:44 AM   #11
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Check 3M out, I forgot the name of there product, but I used it when I owned a boat, it's a sealer. In a tube, it will stick to anything and even be applied underwater. It will keep the repair flexible, it is GREAT stuff. It takes 24 hours for it to cure, but will stop the leak as it's cures. You can get it Amazon, west marine , Napa by me, but easy to find on line. It comes in white and I think black.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:53 AM   #12
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Check 3M out, I forgot the name of there product, but I used it when I owned a boat, it's a sealer. In a tube, it will stick to anything and even be applied underwater. It will keep the repair flexible, it is GREAT stuff. It takes 24 hours for it to cure, but will stop the leak as it's cures. You can get it Amazon, west marine , Napa by me, but easy to find on line. It comes in white and I think black.
It is called 5200, but do not get the fast cure
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:34 AM   #13
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It is called 5200, but do not get the fast cure
If you do decide to go with 5200, be ABSOLUTELY sure you don't ever want to remove it. The surrounding material will fail before the adhesive does. I only use 5200 under the boat, and even then I am particular what I do with it.

In most cases, especially when working where water intrusion due to a failed bond won't cause catastrophic failure (like sinking if a thru-hull lets go), 4200 is a much better choice IMHO. While it's a challenge to remove, it can be done.

I am making my comments because if someone wants to use the leftover 5200 to adhere something else somewhere else, they need to know that the bond will outlast their trailer.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:47 PM   #14
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You can get specific ABS two part epoxy. Be sure the crack is opened enough to allow the epoxy to push through to the other side. As others have said, clean and dry a must. I have also used JB weld with some success but it doesn't bond to ABS quite as good as ABS epoxy. Looked but my tube of ABS cement doesn't have the label, but sure you can find it at most hardware stores or RV shops.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:01 PM   #15
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If you do decide to go with 5200, be ABSOLUTELY sure you don't ever want to remove it. The surrounding material will fail before the adhesive does. I only use 5200 under the boat, and even then I am particular what I do with it.

In most cases, especially when working where water intrusion due to a failed bond won't cause catastrophic failure (like sinking if a thru-hull lets go), 4200 is a much better choice IMHO. While it's a challenge to remove, it can be done.

I am making my comments because if someone wants to use the leftover 5200 to adhere something else somewhere else, they need to know that the bond will outlast their trailer.
This is true, I have never used the 4200, always the 5200 below the water line, 3M makes great products, the problem will be gone forever, as you stated the trailer will apart first
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:14 PM   #16
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Cleaning the surface where the leak is will be the key to a successful job. Previous grey water that got through a crack has left deposits of oil from foods and body's. I would not hesitate to use "denatured alcohol" (cheap at home supply stores in the paint area) to clean the crack.
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