Crack in galley grey tank

[cgotto1204]

While doing dishes, my neighbor knocked on my door stating that water was leaking from under my camper. Went to check and found a crack where the drain pipe is "welded" to the tank. Need advice or suggestions to repair this crack. Thinking of Flex Seal, but not sure.

[doc73]

Originally Posted by cgotto1204

While doing dishes, my neighbor knocked on my door stating that water was leaking from under my camper. Went to check and found a crack where the drain pipe is "welded" to the tank. Need advice or suggestions to repair this crack. Thinking of Flex Seal, but not sure.

I've heard of people heat welding it. But depending on what the tank is made of it is very hard to just repair it since many sealants and typical products will not bond to the tank.

[DadOfTwo]

If it were me I'd try plumber's putty. It's a two-part epoxy putty. You cut off the amount you think you'll need, then knead it until the two colors become one. It will start getting hot. Then form it around the plug / crack. Try to force it into the crack if possible.


And I think I would first scuff up the plastic around the crack to give the putty more to grab ahold of.


Depending on the size and location of the crack, I might even enlargen the crack to ensure the putty get's all the way through.


But that's just me, I'm a cheapskate. You should probably try doc73's advice first.


I've done some pretty surprising things with plumber's putty, though...

[brookstone345sa]

I've had good luck with JB Weld, has to be dry

[SuicideSaints]

Originally Posted by cgotto1204

While doing dishes, my neighbor knocked on my door stating that water was leaking from under my camper. Went to check and found a crack where the drain pipe is "welded" to the tank. Need advice or suggestions to repair this crack. Thinking of Flex Seal, but not sure.

First, if your camper is newer or you have an extended warranty take it in. I don't see anything in your sig to know is the only reason I state that.

You can try that spray but it wont be a permanent fix and may get you through in a pinch but could make it harder to fix later.

Find out what your tank is made of and what the drain pipe is made out of. I suspect it is abs, I had a crack in my FR EVO 2015 drain plumbing and it was all ABS. I used plasti-mend to fix it. I will put the link below. Plasti mend only works for ABS and it worked great for me (Im not affiliated with them at all, they were good to work with and customer service was great). I never had any problems with that area after the patch up in the next year and a half I owned it.

They have a page that helps you identify your type of plastic

http://www.plasti-mend.com/

[5picker]

Those poly/ABS tanks can be tough to repair.

A friend of mine tried most everything suggested above.
Then he tried Eternabond tape. It worked.
Cleaned the tank with their cleaner/primer, attached the tape and rolled it on.
Not sure if the repair is still holding as we moved and haven't seen them in a few years.
Worth a try.

[houstonstroker]

I fixed a two leaks in my last camper, one black tank and one gray water tank. Plasti Mend did the trick. No leaks after several years.

[ACJC]

Originally Posted by DadOfTwo

If it were me I'd try plumber's putty. It's a two-part epoxy putty. You cut off the amount you think you'll need, then knead it until the two colors become one. It will start getting hot. Then form it around the plug / crack. Try to force it into the crack if possible...

That is not plumbers putty but pro-poxy, or similar. It's a two part epoxy that will get very hard when set up. You can sand,cut, file etc after set up.
Not sure how it would hold up on the tank as the plastic will expand and contract with temperature changes as well as flex while traveling.
Good luck with the mend.

[DadOfTwo]

Originally Posted by ACJC

That is not plumbers putty but pro-poxy, or similar. It's a two part epoxy that will get very hard when set up. You can sand,cut, file etc after set up.
Not sure how it would hold up on the tank as the plastic will expand and contract with temperature changes as well as flex while traveling.
Good luck with the mend.

I stand corrected. One brand calls it 'plumber's epoxy putty,' but a generic name would just be epoxy putty.

[kenenn]

We are full timers so our Black " poly " tank is filled and emptied on a weekly basis.

Upon visiting a workshop in the Elkhart area , we were show how to electric weld a tank.
We had a crack 6 inches long in our black tank and cut it deeper and drilled holes in each end to stop the crack from continuing and had tried several other ideas to stop the leak.
After arriving home, my Son and I used a hot air- electric welder from Harbour Freight, to repair the black " poly " tank,
Have had no issues in the two years since it was welded.

[Witch Doctor]

Check 3M out, I forgot the name of there product, but I used it when I owned a boat, it's a sealer. In a tube, it will stick to anything and even be applied underwater. It will keep the repair flexible, it is GREAT stuff. It takes 24 hours for it to cure, but will stop the leak as it's cures. You can get it Amazon, west marine , Napa by me, but easy to find on line. It comes in white and I think black.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

Check 3M out, I forgot the name of there product, but I used it when I owned a boat, it's a sealer. In a tube, it will stick to anything and even be applied underwater. It will keep the repair flexible, it is GREAT stuff. It takes 24 hours for it to cure, but will stop the leak as it's cures. You can get it Amazon, west marine , Napa by me, but easy to find on line. It comes in white and I think black.

It is called 5200, but do not get the fast cure

[marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

It is called 5200, but do not get the fast cure

If you do decide to go with 5200, be ABSOLUTELY sure you don't ever want to remove it. The surrounding material will fail before the adhesive does. I only use 5200 under the boat, and even then I am particular what I do with it.

In most cases, especially when working where water intrusion due to a failed bond won't cause catastrophic failure (like sinking if a thru-hull lets go), 4200 is a much better choice IMHO. While it's a challenge to remove, it can be done.

I am making my comments because if someone wants to use the leftover 5200 to adhere something else somewhere else, they need to know that the bond will outlast their trailer.

[Comanchecreek]

You can get specific ABS two part epoxy. Be sure the crack is opened enough to allow the epoxy to push through to the other side. As others have said, clean and dry a must. I have also used JB weld with some success but it doesn't bond to ABS quite as good as ABS epoxy. Looked but my tube of ABS cement doesn't have the label, but sure you can find it at most hardware stores or RV shops.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

If you do decide to go with 5200, be ABSOLUTELY sure you don't ever want to remove it. The surrounding material will fail before the adhesive does. I only use 5200 under the boat, and even then I am particular what I do with it.

In most cases, especially when working where water intrusion due to a failed bond won't cause catastrophic failure (like sinking if a thru-hull lets go), 4200 is a much better choice IMHO. While it's a challenge to remove, it can be done.

I am making my comments because if someone wants to use the leftover 5200 to adhere something else somewhere else, they need to know that the bond will outlast their trailer.

This is true, I have never used the 4200, always the 5200 below the water line, 3M makes great products, the problem will be gone forever, as you stated the trailer will apart first[emoji106] [emoji41]

[Thurman]

Cleaning the surface where the leak is will be the key to a successful job. Previous grey water that got through a crack has left deposits of oil from foods and body's. I would not hesitate to use "denatured alcohol" (cheap at home supply stores in the paint area) to clean the crack.