Cracked shower wall - Help!

[NoviBill]

The shower wall in my RV is cracked and I want to fix it.
Lexington 255DS - Bath by cdrdwd, on Flickr

My first thought is to remove the trim pieces and replace the panels with FRP
4 ft. x 8 ft. White .090 FRP Wall Board-MFTF12IXA480009600 - The Home Depot

Has anyone done this? Any recommendations? Has anyone used anything other than FRP?

One of my concern is how do I glue the FRP everywhere (the current panels do not look like they were glued in place).

Thanks,

Bill

[BurgPath]

Could you remove the corner pieces and panel inside the current panels? Then replace the corners screwing through the new and into the existing. Then seal it all up?

[NoviBill]

So I started the repair of the shower walls today - mostly tear out.
I removed all of the screws (half square head, half phillips) and used a box-cutter to remove the calk at the edges. Then pulled the moldings. The outside moldings are metal and came off easy once the calk was cut. The inside molding are held in place with two sided foam tape and caulk. They come of easy once you cut the caulk (on one of them the two sided foam tape still had the paper on it - never pealed back and stuck in place). Managed to get the two non-faucet panels out with only 20 minutes of work.

Right now I'm stuck trying to loosen the faucet hose connectors - in the wall, small access panel from the shower side. Tomorrow I think I am going to cut a hole in the outside wall and turn it into an access opening (put plastic molding over the cuts and Velcro to hold it in place)

More soon - I want to use it starting Friday!

Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cdrdwd...57653116935102

[NoviBill]

I had to cut an access hole in the wall outside the shower to get to the plumbing. The access hole in the shower just did not provide enough space to work (and I want to check for leaks visually when I am done).

I cut the FRP to size and dry fitted it today. Tomorrow install and caulk.

[rana]

I don't mean to be crass, but the question keeps replaying in my mind every time this thread pops up on "today's posts"...

Just zactly how did you and Mz. Renee crack the shower wall in the FIRST place!!??

That may help determine what kind of fix would be recommended. Like doin a fix and patch on the existing wall, adding a layer of anti fatigue matting, and then topping it with a fiber-fab sheet to match the existing panels. You should be able to move the corner pieces outward and it would still look practically OEM.

Only you would know he difference and we'll never tell.

On the serious side.. an over laminate might be the way to go for additional support and ease of installation.

[NoviBill]

Not tell how we cracked it.

The problem with the plastic liner was it was under pressure without room to move (thus when it was -20 out it cracked - differ expansion/contraction than the walls). Basically a crappy install from the factory. The original color was white, but it aged yellow over time. The FRP is white and will stay that way for years.

The FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) has better cold weather characteristic and cleans better than the plastic. I have also over drilled the holes so it has room to move (so less pressure, lower chance of cracking). I have also added a 1/4 gap at the ceiling so vertical expansion is not an issue. I will use 7/8 inch seam tap at the floor and ceiling.

I will know in 5 years if all went correctly!