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Old 10-22-2013, 04:12 PM   #21
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OldCoot has a good idea or you can also just buy a water tank rinser at Camping World for $6. Water Heater Tank Rinser - Camco 11691 - Water Heaters - Camping World
I replace the anode every year. They're not that expensive. Suppose I could change it every couple years, but that's just me.
I made one of those, but it still left some junk in the bottom, so I used both, one to stir it up and the other to suck the junk/water out. Couldn't feel anything or see anything left in the tank. Should be good until we get back from FL this winter and I'll do it again for the summer.
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:27 PM   #22
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You may also have heard the phrase "sacrificial anode." That's what this is. There's usually one in your home water heater, too, but they usually last longer.
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:42 PM   #23
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You may also have heard the phrase "sacrificial anode." That's what this is. There's usually one in your home water heater, too, but they usually last longer.
That's cause there 4' long or better
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:12 PM   #24
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Also when you reinstall the Anode and using pipe tape. Only put the pipe tape on the outside threads. The reason for that is the threads need to have metal to metal contact for the Anode to work.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:02 PM   #25
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Also when you reinstall the Anode and using pipe tape. Only put the pipe tape on the outside threads. The reason for that is the threads need to have metal to metal contact for the Anode to work.
Thanks for that tid bit. I covered all the threads. I'll fix it before using it. (-:
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:27 PM   #26
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Thanks for that tid bit. I covered all the threads. I'll fix it before using it. (-:
Don't worry about it. It is virtually impossible to tighten it up without getting some metal to metal contact. The threads will cit through the tape.

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Old 10-22-2013, 07:50 PM   #27
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You can always use an ohmeter to check for circuit from head of annode to the tank or nearby structure. Its a positive check for too much sealant.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:53 PM   #28
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Other than the misunderstanding about what the "Auto" function does on the thermostat, I think the function,purpose,when to replace it and how to remove and reinstall an anode rod ranks up there with the most asked and discussed item on this forum.

Just saying.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:14 PM   #29
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Good thing I didn't ask any of those questions! (as in that wasn't the point of this thread)

Iv owned my camper for about 3 weeks so its history is unknown to me. I have a well so my water is soft water. It should help prolong my anode rods life! Not to mention none of that garbage they add to city water...
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:23 PM   #30
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Good thing I didn't ask any of those questions! (as in that wasn't the point of this thread)

Iv owned my camper for about 3 weeks so its history is unknown to me. I have a well so my water is soft water. It should help prolong my anode rods life! Not to mention none of that garbage they add to city water...
That's fine if you only use your well water,but you probably will pick up the garbage at the various CG's you hook up at.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:35 PM   #31
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Well water isn't necessarily any better. It can be loaded with iron, calcium, etc. Whatever's leaching out of your particular aquifer. I'm on a well and I need a water softener, and my kitchen faucet is always calcifying up (your kitchen cold water line doesn't go through the water softener, unless you plumber screwed up). In fact, in some ways, city water is probably better with regards to having been commercially filtered and softened.
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Old 10-22-2013, 10:01 PM   #32
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I forgot the last time I filled up my tank I used the campgrounds water lol
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:13 AM   #33
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FWIW- when you buy a new washing machine it usually comes with
black rubber hoses. We always replace those with the stainless braided
ones. I take those black rubber hoses and cut them in half. This gives
me 4 short water hoses with a faucet fitting on one end.
I use one of those to fill my fresh water tank. It works great and I
never get "blow back" until my tank is absolutely full. I use them in my
garden to fill buckets and watering cans at a faucet.
AND-- I can stick one in the drain hole in my water heater to flush out
most of the crud when I'm winterizing. If there's a -few- grains of calcium or
lime or flakes from the anode left in there I don't care. I get out most
of it out and move on. That's good enough for me!
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:34 AM   #34
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Don't worry about it. It is virtually impossible to tighten it up without getting some metal to metal contact. The threads will cit through the tape.

Joel
Joel is correct. I use Teflon pipe dope and it works just great, as well.

Here are some photos (in addition to the one posted earlier) and information on the water heater's anode rod. NEVER use anything but a 1 1/16 inch socket on the anode rod and NEVER forget to use Teflon tape or pipe dope when installing the rod. The rod WILL rust into place and be a bear to remove without cracking the porcelain finish inside. The last thing you want to do is screw up the rod so it can't be removed.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:54 AM   #35
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See!
I told you there'd be all kinds of cool pictures n diagrams as well as buckets full of advice!

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Old 10-23-2013, 09:15 AM   #36
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Joel is correct. I use Teflon pipe dope and it works just great, as well.

Here are some photos (in addition to the one posted earlier) and information on the water heater's anode rod. NEVER use anything but a 1 1/16 inch socket on the anode rod and NEVER forget to use Teflon tape or pipe dope when installing the rod. The rod WILL rust into place and be a bear to remove without cracking the porcelain finish inside. The last thing you want to do is screw up the rod so it can't be removed.
Water is also a reasonably good conductor too, try dropping a frayed extension cord in a puddle and step in it you will feel how good water carries electricity.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:55 AM   #37
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That sir is your anode rod. It is doing what its supposed to by the looks of it. Flush out water heater and replace the anode rod and you'll be fine. They need checked every year. Turbs
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:15 AM   #38
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I never figured there would be so much info on an anode rod lol. Keep it coming guys! I like learning about my camper lol
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:27 PM   #39
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Water is also a reasonably good conductor too, try dropping a frayed extension cord in a puddle and step in it you will feel how good water carries electricity.
I assume this was a joke. Don't try this one at home.

While pure water is a poor conductor, water with dissolved ions (like normal tap water found in your water heater) is an excellent conductor.

The "crud" in the bottom of the water heater is calcium nuggets from hard water that participates out of solution when the water is heated and bits of sacrificial anode rod that gets "lopped" off as the rod is eaten away by low grade acids in the water.
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:49 PM   #40
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I think DDC's point was that you need to do that recommended conductivity check between anode and tank before you fill it with water.
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