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Old 10-23-2013, 02:03 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Lowes.com
Search for anode
2 to choose from aluminum or magnesium. Don't see a zinc one.
Cost $12 or $13.

Sometimes you can get a 2/fer on Ebay and save a buck on shipping.

To the OP, I would replace that one but it's still got a little life left in it.

Here ya go, magnesium $14 including shipping.
Magnesium Anode Rod Surburban 232767 | eBay
I would think the aluminum one would work just as well as and last longer than the magnesium one for steel (Suburban) water heaters. Magnesium is much more reactive than aluminum.

Now while the aluminum tank of an Atwood heater does not need an anode, per se (and does not ship with one installed), I would think a magnesium one might actually have some benefit as it would corrode faster than the tank wall.
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:08 PM   #42
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http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...come-page.html

This may answer some questions.

And

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...er-anodes.html


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Old 10-23-2013, 02:15 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
I think DDC's point was that you need to do that recommended conductivity check between anode and tank before you fill it with water.
Thanks for translating.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:46 PM   #44
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You got to love this forum for all the ideas you get. BTW..My Suburban manual cautions to only use an aluminum anode in extreme cases. But, anyhow, I have a question. After winterizing do you tighten the anode back down tight or leave it loose and tighten it in the spring?? On my previous TT that has an Attwood HWH with no anode and just a drain plug, I was told to leave it loose.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:47 PM   #45
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You got to love this forum for all the ideas you get. BTW..My Suburban manual cautions to only use an aluminum anode in extreme cases. But, anyhow, I have a question. After winterizing do you tighten the anode back down tight or leave it loose and tighten it in the spring?? On my previous TT that has an Attwood HWH with no anode and just a drain plug, I was told to leave it loose.
I leave mine out.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:58 PM   #46
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Y After winterizing do you tighten the anode back down tight or leave it loose and tighten it in the spring?? On my previous TT that has an Attwood HWH with no anode and just a drain plug, I was told to leave it loose.
I go on and mostly tighten mine down so I don't have to worry about it in the spring. If it leaks a bit in the spring, then I will tighten until the leak stops.

Leaving the anode rod out during winter is an invitation to critters.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:21 PM   #47
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I go on and mostly tighten mine down so I don't have to worry about it in the spring. If it leaks a bit in the spring, then I will tighten until the leak stops.

Leaving the anode rod out during winter is an invitation to critters.
Lol how many critters are in 10 below weather ?
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:32 PM   #48
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Lol how many critters are in 10 below weather ?
Trouble with that is it doesn't stay -10° from the time you winterize and when you de-winterize and critters will find it even in a shed.

BTW, ever hear of ice worms? They do exist!
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:09 PM   #49
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I left mine out lol. Mostly because I have to have the awning out to open my water heater cover...
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:44 PM   #50
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Quote:
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My Suburban manual cautions to only use an aluminum anode in extreme cases.

Lloyd,

Neither the Suburban 6 Gallon nor the 10 Gallon Manuals I have say that.

Please upload a copy of your manual as you may have a different model or version manual that I don't have.

If you have problems uploading it you can email (using the forum) or PM me.
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