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Old 10-23-2013, 10:00 PM   #61
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Had to change an Atwood tank a fewo years ago. It was Aluminum, no annode.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:57 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
Had to change an Atwood tank a fewo years ago. It was Aluminum, no annode.
Vince is correct.

Aluminum tank, so no anode. BUT it still has an outside drain plug.

As mentioned before; it is not recommended to use the low point drains to drain the hot water heater since the "crud" being discussed will be drawn into the plumbing. When flushed during the spring, the "crud" can be pushed into the faucets and due to draining through the cold water inlet, "crud" can also find its way into the toilet valve; plugging it.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:39 AM   #63
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Herk,how does water from the (HOT) side of a system carry (Crud) from the Water Heater to the (Cold) side into the Toilet? Are you flussing with (Hot) water? Youroo!!!
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:25 AM   #64
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When you drain the hot water tank using the low point drains, you are using the lower (inlet-cold) water pipe to empty the hot water tank.

This sucks the crud into the cold water lines and it will tend to collect in the bends and fittings.

In the Spring, when you pressurize to flush out the pipes (including the toilet), the fresh water coming in will sweep up the crud and carry it to the faucets and since the crud is in your cold water lines; to the toilet valve.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:44 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
When you drain the hot water tank using the low point drains, you are using the lower (inlet-cold) water pipe to empty the hot water tank.

This sucks the crud into the cold water lines and it will tend to collect in the bends and fittings.

In the Spring, when you pressurize to flush out the pipes (including the toilet), the fresh water coming in will sweep up the crud and carry it to the faucets and since the crud is in your cold water lines; to the toilet valve.
Herk
OK,but this only applies if the W/H bypass valves are in the (In use) position. If the (W/H is in Winter bypass) this can NOT happen. Is this correct? Youroo!!
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:58 AM   #66
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I know this post is buried in a huge discussion but I do put my anode back in after
I winterize and flush it.
I left it out once upon a time and the threads in the tank rusted badly
over the winter. I think the reason is it's nearly impossible to get ALL
the water out of the WH tank. So now I drain, flush and put plenty of
teflon pipe dope on my anode threads and re-install it.
And yeah critters could get in there. It's not 10 below all the time.
It sure as heck isn't 10 below when I'm winterizing!! It would be too late
by then!!
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:39 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post

Vince is correct.

Aluminum tank, so no anode. BUT it still has an outside drain plug.

As mentioned before; it is not recommended to use the low point drains to drain the hot water heater since the "crud" being discussed will be drawn into the plumbing. When flushed during the spring, the "crud" can be pushed into the faucets and due to draining through the cold water inlet, "crud" can also find its way into the toilet valve; plugging it.
Well..........
Technically it is aluminum cladded.
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:10 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Well..........
Technically it is aluminum cladded.
That would be a Far Eastern knock off! Mine was feather light, solilt open for four inches of girth and all similar material, even welded fittings. Rem. Atwood will sell you a tank, Suburban only sells a heater.
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:26 AM   #69
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... solilt open for four inches of girth...
????????
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:34 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by OldCoot

????????
Failed to properly winterize!!! Bypass closed, tank still full, Loooong time ago.
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:40 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU View Post

That would be a Far Eastern knock off! Mine was feather light, solilt open for four inches of girth and all similar material, even welded fittings. Rem. Atwood will sell you a tank, Suburban only sells a heater.
Right from Attwood's website.

Aluminum clad tank - Less weight and the cladding eliminates the need for an anode rod.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:01 AM   #72
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Ok so mine was a 25 years ago, Colemen popup with hot sink water and shower. Internet mem is better than human but i'd still promise that 6 gallon jug was much lighter thn steel, and at the cracked edge looked like a thin lipped rupture, all the same shiny metal, no rust, had it been steel it would have flash rusted. No matter, don't need annode anyway.
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:05 AM   #73
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Our local RV dealer has a HW tank that is split wide open sitting on the
floor right next to a skid load of RV antifreeze.
It gets the point across!
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:01 PM   #74
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OK,but this only applies if the W/H bypass valves are in the (In use) position. If the (W/H is in Winter bypass) this can NOT happen. Is this correct? Youroo!!
Jury duty all day.

If the water heater valves are in the "In Use" position it certainly will happen since the cold water (lower) valve is open.

If the valves are first placed in "Winterize/Bypass" you can not drain through the low point drains since the cold water (lower) valve is closed.
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