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Old 10-24-2013, 08:40 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by VinceU View Post

That would be a Far Eastern knock off! Mine was feather light, solilt open for four inches of girth and all similar material, even welded fittings. Rem. Atwood will sell you a tank, Suburban only sells a heater.
Right from Attwood's website.

Aluminum clad tank - Less weight and the cladding eliminates the need for an anode rod.

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Old 10-24-2013, 09:01 AM   #72
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Ok so mine was a 25 years ago, Colemen popup with hot sink water and shower. Internet mem is better than human but i'd still promise that 6 gallon jug was much lighter thn steel, and at the cracked edge looked like a thin lipped rupture, all the same shiny metal, no rust, had it been steel it would have flash rusted. No matter, don't need annode anyway.

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Old 10-24-2013, 10:05 AM   #73
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Our local RV dealer has a HW tank that is split wide open sitting on the
floor right next to a skid load of RV antifreeze.
It gets the point across!
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:01 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
OK,but this only applies if the W/H bypass valves are in the (In use) position. If the (W/H is in Winter bypass) this can NOT happen. Is this correct? Youroo!!
Jury duty all day.

If the water heater valves are in the "In Use" position it certainly will happen since the cold water (lower) valve is open.

If the valves are first placed in "Winterize/Bypass" you can not drain through the low point drains since the cold water (lower) valve is closed.


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2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
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heater, water, water heater

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