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Old 03-22-2012, 02:54 PM   #1
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De-winterize

On my 2012 rockwood just remove filter and flush fresh water through the the de-winterized valve, run water til pink is gone and wa la?
Is that it?
Thanks for help never done this before.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:08 PM   #2
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Its pretty simple.

Just a couple of things to make sure you do...

Take water heater out of bypass.

Sanitize the fresh water tank.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:52 PM   #3
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I keep seeing people say to sanitize the fresh water tank. When I did my winterization, I connected my kit to my water pump and pumped the pink stuff through my lines. My understanding is, there is a one way check valve that would prevent backflow into the FW tank. If that is the case (other than just making sure I had a clean FW tank), do I really need to sanitize the FW tank?
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:02 PM   #4
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If that is the case (other than just making sure I had a clean FW tank), do I really need to sanitize the FW tank?
If you use your fresh water tank than you want to disinfect it periodically. Its a good thing to do once a year.
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:42 PM   #5
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So bypass Hot water tank while flushing? How do you bypass? Not sure how you do that.
Thanks
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:05 PM   #6
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When I de winterized a few weeks ago, I pulled out the anode on the hot water heater. Hooked up the water hose, checked to make sure all the faucets were off, and then turned it on. I flushed everything out real good, plus put water in the fresh water tank. I turned on the pump, ran everything in that mode, then without the pump. I sanitized the fresh water tank. I then turned on hot water heater, etc. and checked everything out. I found out I needed a new anode for hot water heater, plus a new shower head. Went camping last weekend..everything worked as prescribed.
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:45 AM   #7
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So bypass Hot water tank while flushing? How do you bypass? Not sure how you do that.
Thanks
Let me make sure I understand the question because bypass is something you do in the fall. Taking the water heater out of bypass is something you do now.

So, when you winterized last year, your HWH was bypassed (valves are near the HWH) so that it did not fill with antifreeze. Now that the AF is flushed out of your trailer, you need to reverse those valves so the HWH can fill again.

Now you are set to sanitize the system; including the water heater.

Does that make more sense?
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:54 AM   #8
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so what does Sanitize the water tank mean????......is that a bottle of something I need to buy??.....or mix beach and water?

how is this done?
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:55 AM   #9
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Got it thanks a lot.
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:59 AM   #10
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so what does Sanitize the water tank mean????......is that a bottle of something I need to buy??.....or mix beach and water?

how is this done?
Fill up your freshwater tank with water and throw some bleach in it. Leave it sit in your tank for 4 hours or overnight, open your faucets to run the water through the lines, empty the tank, fill it up again and dump it. Sanitizing now done!
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:06 AM   #11
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^^^^
That's it!
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:44 AM   #12
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Just goes to show you another FAIL in the pdi department!
The op should have showed and told everything that there
Asking and don't understand!
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Fill up your freshwater tank with water and throw some bleach in it. Leave it sit in your tank for 4 hours or overnight, open your faucets to run the water through the lines, empty the tank, fill it up again and dump it. Sanitizing now done!
These are correct...I am just going to reorder them to what we do. Hopefully this will make it a little clearer. Fill up your freshwater tank with water and throw some bleach in it (1 cup bleach per 15 gallons). Open all of your faucets (don't forget the outside shower) to run the water through the lines for a minute or two (you should be able to smell the bleach.) Leave it sit in your tank for 4 hours or overnight, empty the tank, fill it up again and dump it. Sanitizing now done!
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:58 AM   #14
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Agreed on the PDI fail. I would however say that Rockwood is crazy for not producing a quick DVD for each style of unit that shows you everything you need to know to run your unit.

Thanks for all the help.
Since March seems to be a bit early to de-winterized for Colorado we will camp without water this weekend.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:14 PM   #15
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Agreed on the PDI fail. I would however say that Rockwood is crazy for not producing a quick DVD for each style of unit that shows you everything you need to know to run your unit.

Thanks for all the help.
Since March seems to be a bit early to de-winterized for Colorado we will camp without water this weekend.
That's a great idea! Even BASIC information could be covered. Definitely something their marketing or customer service department should invest in.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:19 PM   #16
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I'll bet you Prime Time will be the first to have this in their new "How To" videos.

It really wouldn't be hard either. It should be part of the responsibility of every Forest River project manager in charge of each line.

Edit: A post on another thread reminded of these videos from by Mark Polk. They give the basics and provide a framework that can be used for a specific rig. You may have to do more or less depending on your rig but you get the idea.

There's one for Sanitizing the FW tank and lines.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:56 PM   #17
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Agreed, it would help a newbie like me refresh my skills. I searched Utube but did not find anything that would walk me through basics of my unit.
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Old 03-24-2012, 02:23 PM   #18
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You want to be careful with how much bleach you use... or you could damage your water lines or tank.

• Prepare a chlorine bleach solution using 1-gallon water and 1/4 cup of chlorine bleach. Use 1 gallon of solution for every 15 gallons of tank capacity. Example: Add 2-2/3 gallons solution to a 40-gallon tank. Add 4-2/3 gallons solution to a 70-gallon tank. Add 6-2/3 gallons to 100- gallon tank. This mixture puts a 50-ppm (parts per million) residual in the water system. This concentration will act as a quick-kill dosage for harmful bacteria, viruses and slime- forming organisms. Concentrations higher than 50-ppm may damage the water lines and/or tanks.
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