De-Winterize

[RickyD929]

Anyone out there with a 2012 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite Travel Trailer that could tell me the exact position that the 3 valves need to be turned to for summer useage? @ are real easy to get to and the 3rd is hidden from view, but can be reached. Hooked up the city water, turned it on, opened up the cold faucets until the air was gone. Then opened up the hot faucets until water came out of those, which I assume means that the hot water tank had filled up. Lit the gas part of the water heater, but could not get any hot water. After awhile the burner kicked off and I could not get it to fire again. The water heater switch will light up, but the little red DSI light that is right next to it does not light up. Didn't pay any attention to it to notice if it was on when the burner would click until lighting when it was first turned on. Very low water pressure and no hot water

[Ford Idaho]

Is the trailer plugged in or on battery?
If battery is it charged?
Turn off the gas and then turn it back on real slow.

[Lefty59]

I believe the valves your asking about are the water heater bypass valves. They work basically the same in any RV. One valve controls water inflow to the water heater...one controls water coming out of the water heater and the third lets water pass from the inlet to the outlet.

Typically, when winterized, the two valves going into and out of the water heater are closed and the bypass valve from inlet to outlet is opened. When de-winterizing you would want to close the bypass valve and open the other two valves.

Think of the valves as being installed on a capital letter 'H' with the water heater inlet and outlets attached at one end. The bypass valve controls flow across the crossbar of the 'H' while the other two control water to and from the top legs of the 'H' (to/from the water heater inlet and outlet).

Best wishes!

[Triguy]

I don't know what water heater you have, but it shouldn't matter if you have three valves. The one in the middle is a bypass and needs to be closed in order to get hot water. The other two will be open (inline with their hoses). Like this ...



Unfortunately you may have a problem now if you tried to light that water heater without first verifying that there was, indeed, some water in there. If the valves were set for winter, they would not have filled your heater.

You can always verify if water is in the heater (when full) by opening the relief valve. On mine, its the silver handle sticking out of the blue circle towards the top of the front of the heater.

[SKnight]

The valves at the top and bottom need to be turned inline with the lines, the one in the middle should be turned against the lines. That's normal flow mode.

Make sure that the heater switch is turned off.

With the system under pressure go outside and slowly pull the valve on the safety valve at the top. If water comes flowing out, it's good. If air comes out, then wait and it will fill. If nothing comes out then the valves aren't right. Check to make sure that they're turned so water flows through the heater, but not through the line in between.

Once you have water sorted, on the water heater under the outside access cover there should be a plastic black box with one or two rubber buttons that look like plugs. That's where your resets are. Reset the heater, turn it on and see what happens.

[RickyD929]

I opened the relief valve part ways and there was water coming out. I also loosened the anode rod just enough to see that water was draining from there also. I didn't light the water heater until I had water coming from the hot faucets in the camper. Would this not mean that the tank was full?

[Triguy]

That's great, Ricky. I am glad you had verified it as its easy to damage the heater if lighting without having the water in it.

So, your next step is to turn the valves all the way as needed for the summer and let it fill. Then retry either the gas or electic. By the way what model heater do you have?

[RickyD929]

It's a Suburban, but I'm not down there at the campsite right now to get the exact model number. Won't be going back down until next weekend. Just seems odd that it fired right up on the gas side and ran for several minutes before kicking off. Could never get it to ignite again. I'm sure the one hard to reach valve is probably open. Probably all 3 are for that matter. Could never get any water pressure either. Was fine last year. Is the little red DSI light supposed to be lit when the water heater switch is turned on, or just when it's trying to ignite?

[Ford Idaho]

Are you using a water filter and pressure regulator?
Does your unit have an outside shower, if it does are both faucets closed and the push stop open?

[RickyD929]

I didn't put the filter back in this year, as I've heard that not using a filter would increase the water pressure. We take bottled water, so really don't need the filter. Yes, we do have an outside shower. Both faucets are closed and the push stop is open

[Triguy]

Originally Posted by RickyD929

Is the little red DSI light supposed to be lit when the water heater switch is turned on, or just when it's trying to ignite?

The DSI light should turn on momentarily until the water heater is lit (if the light comes back on or stays on, this indicates a lock out problem and the unit will not operate).

[RickyD929]

The water heater burner was lit, but suddenly kicked off. Won't re-ignite now.

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[SKnight]

Borrowed from Triguy.



See the black box? See the rubber plugs? Those are the breakers I mentioned. Reset the breakers, try that.

[Triguy]

Originally Posted by RickyD929

The water heater burner was lit, but suddenly kicked off. Won't re-ignite now.

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Ricky, it could be a variety of things and its probably best for you to explore when you are at your site. Propane is low pressure or is empty or you have air in your lines, reset button on ECO is tripped, flame probe needs adjusting are just a few possibilities why it won't light now. Its just really hard to say.

There is some diagnostic material for Suburban heaters here in our library that might help you when you are near your camper.

[RickyD929]

Thanks. The picture looks exactly like the water heater we have. The propane is low in the tank, but was still operating the furnace. I'll take a full tank with me this coming weekend. Really appreciate the advice

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[RickyD929]

In the picture shown, the little black cover at the bottom, would that be where the heating element is should I need to replace it? And is there much to replacing it?

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[doc73]

That is where the electric element is located. No, it is not hard to replace. Had to replace mine this past season on our old trailer. Got the new one from Lowes in the heating isle. It was just a big nut to screw out and connect the appropriate wires to their spots.

[RickyD929]

Thanks for the info

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