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Old 05-16-2017, 07:02 PM   #21
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I flush my black tank using one of those wands that gets the crud off the sensors. I then dump a gallon or so of water with a small amount of bleach and let that slosh around as I'm driving to my next destination. At my final destination I will drain both tanks and use the wand again on the black tank. I'm not one for leaving any fluid in either tank. Before I take off on my next trip I will again add about a gallon of water with a small amount of bleach and flush that when I get there.
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Old 05-16-2017, 11:36 PM   #22
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My salesman told me to drain the tanks, then put three bags of ice into the toliet with some water. Then drive around, then dump. He said that would break up any build up of waste.
Anybody hear of or try this?
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Old 05-17-2017, 02:33 AM   #23
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My salesman told me to drain the tanks, then put three bags of ice into the toliet with some water. Then drive around, then dump. He said that would break up any build up of waste.
Anybody hear of or try this?
Didn't really work for me and I tried it numerous times.
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Old 05-17-2017, 02:48 AM   #24
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Didn't really work for me and I tried it numerous times.
It kind of / sort of works if you use about 30 lbs of ice, a couple gallons of water, and drive like your racing an SCCA road course. It's a true PITA. I've found a combo of the wand down the crapper, and one of the fittings you can hook a hose too at the dump valve and fill and flush from that end, to be the best. Much better than Geo, ice, and the moronic OEM tank flush which is the least effective of any.
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:20 AM   #25
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The reason the Geomethod is effective is that it puts a slick film on the tank that helps the sludge slide down toward the exit. A wand sprayer is then more effective at pushing it and blowing it off the tank walls and sensors.Ice is a total waste of money and time. TheFitRV.com guys video on this did a nice job of demonstrating what is actually happening in the tank. He saved me some money and wasted time as well. Amazing how truly ineffective some of those other highly marketed systems are.
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:06 AM   #26
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My salesman told me to drain the tanks, then put three bags of ice into the toliet with some water. Then drive around, then dump. He said that would break up any build up of waste.
Anybody hear of or try this?
I did that along with Dawn and Calgon water softener. Had messed up sensors from PO. Worked for me. Now I back flush as needed.
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:08 AM   #27
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Did this at the start of a trip and I think the distance helped!
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:19 AM   #28
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When I am in full hookups for a while, I connect a hose I made up (two one way check valves - one on each end - and a shutoff valve) to my Y connector. I then Turboflush the black tank (after dumping) for about 30 minutes.

When empty the first time (using the turbo), I close the black tank valve and let the turbo fill the tank for about one minute. I then open it (still leaving the turbo flusher running). I usually repeat this several times till the water runs clear and there is no hesitation noticed. The hesitation is caused by clumps of junk getting caught at the valve housing. It can take a few seconds to build up enough pressure to push it through.

I also installed a turbo flush in the Gray water tank to help get soapy shower hair out of the tank.

After both tanks are clean, I add about 3 gallons of water and a capful of Calgon water softener and a capful of laundry detergent to the black tank.

When I winterize, I add 1/2 bottle of Unique RV-Digest-It to each tank and fill then to the max. I let that sit for several days and then dump and turbo flush as above before putting the camper away for the season.
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Old 05-17-2017, 10:44 AM   #29
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How well I clean out the tanks frequently is determined by how soon is my next camping trip. If it's in a couple of weeks or so, I'm not that concerned (keep those chemical odor guards in there!) as I am about doing a good deep cleaning out of tanks. If it's sitting for longer or at end of the season they get a good flushing out. If I'm in a hurry, running late, tired or lousy cold, windy, rainy weather- it's later... Of course I'm lucky, I live next to a handful of state park campgrounds and can use their dump stations.
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Old 05-17-2017, 02:32 PM   #30
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I have a drain cleanout port on the side of my house about three feet up. I bought a Sewer Solution just so I could dump uphill. Also helpful that it includes a backflush valve. I've been very happy with it, although I only use it at home. At cg's, I use the regular hose.
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Old 05-17-2017, 02:48 PM   #31
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Bleach is not recommended for you black tank. I usually always leave some water I'm grey and black tanks when not in use
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Old 05-17-2017, 02:59 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
When I am in full hookups for a while, I connect a hose I made up (two one way check valves - one on each end - and a shutoff valve) to my Y connector. I then Turboflush the black tank (after dumping) for about 30 minutes.

When empty the first time (using the turbo), I close the black tank valve and let the turbo fill the tank for about one minute. I then open it (still leaving the turbo flusher running). I usually repeat this several times till the water runs clear and there is no hesitation noticed. The hesitation is caused by clumps of junk getting caught at the valve housing. It can take a few seconds to build up enough pressure to push it through.

I also installed a turbo flush in the Gray water tank to help get soapy shower hair out of the tank.

After both tanks are clean, I add about 3 gallons of water and a capful of Calgon water softener and a capful of laundry detergent to the black tank.

When I winterize, I add 1/2 bottle of Unique RV-Digest-It to each tank and fill then to the max. I let that sit for several days and then dump and turbo flush as above before putting the camper away for the season.
Here is some very good advice worth a re-read.

Our holding tanks are NOT septic tanks and typically, (unless you are on a seasonal site) the liquid in the tanks never get a chance to break down any solids (no matter what chemical mix you use) because we empty them BEFORE any of degradable process can begin.

By filling and adding the digestive chemical at the end of the season and letting it sit for days (week+) before emptying and flushing, ensures you'll start out the next season with clean tanks void of solids.
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:24 AM   #33
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Use lots of water & check venting

My tanks drain fairly quickly. My first few times I drained without flushing, and wasn't using the Geo Method yet. When I got home, I opened the valve expecting a little bit of liquid, and got turds and paper. The jostling on the way home had loosened things up a bit. Now I flush when I get home. We boondock, so when I get home I usually have a full tank. I tried the ice method when I bought the used trailer and it didn't do much. On our houseboat, I was taught to open the toilet with a brush while draining the tank. It seemed superfluous at the time, but later I found out our vent had never worked. Try it on yours and if it drains better it means your venting isn't working correctly. On our houseboat, it went horizontal and slightly downhill for 4 feet before going up. The tank was bloated enough to bow the angle iron that held it in place. Be sure to put several gallons of water in your tank before you use it.

As for digesting in the tank, bacteria will grow overnight and start digesting with the right additives. But, you normally don't need that. We've stayed 3 weeks in our houseboat without dumping and without odor using TST from Walmart. I use the Geo Method in our trailer, and I believe the Calgon water softener keeps the tank from building up calcium deposits from the hard water. It works.
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Old 05-22-2017, 10:41 AM   #34
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Thanks all. I'm behind on seeing some of these comments!

I don't think it's a vent issue or a clog (water came out just fine initially, and this was the first use of a brand-new tank with no #2 in it). Sounds like the eventual slow but steady stream can be common on some campers. DH and I have some ideas to tweak the process our next go 'round at the dump station.

For now, we're keeping with the Calgon/detergent combo unless we experience issues and need to change it. And, maybe a treatment of RV Digest-It at the end of the season...

Thanks again!
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Old 05-22-2017, 10:57 AM   #35
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My salesman told me to drain the tanks, then put three bags of ice into the toliet with some water. Then drive around, then dump. He said that would break up any build up of waste.
Anybody hear of or try this?
How do you know the saleman's lying to you? His LIPS ARE MOVING!

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Old 05-22-2017, 11:52 AM   #36
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Love this guys videos... He is kinda like the Mythbusters of all things RV related...but I wonder how big a 5th wheel he could haul around with his Mazda truck Judging by how soft his suspension is when he is jumping around in the box....
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:51 PM   #37
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I believe that there are as many solutions to draining RV tanks as there are members of this forum. I've "been there, done that" with so many different ideas. Some work, some don't. IF I am connected to a sewer system at an RV park/campground I drain my black tank each night followed by the grey tank. The day I am to leave I drag the proverbial, dedicated to RV tank flush, water hose into the bath area hook up my wand and clean, clean, and clean some more. I run lots of water via the kitchen sink and bath tub for the grey side. I do happen to have a connection at home so that I can hook my macerator pump into the main line going to my septic tank. I clean up each tank very well then add five (5) gallons of water to each, one tablet of an RV tank deodorizer and some simple green then let it sit. I also keep my fresh water tank about 1/2 full when at home so the g'boy's can use the TT toilet to pee when they are outside. Even the three year old knows how to turn on the water pump, do his business, then turn the pump off. Now if I could just get him to not stand there watching the water going into the toilet while he holds the pedal down.
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