Drain plug in hot water heater will not buge.

[Happy Dude]

I have a 2006 Cherokee and I don't think the drain plug has ever been taken out. I soaked it with WD40 bought a 1 1/16 6 point socket but can not get the thing to budge. Don't want to force it too much as to do damage to beyond repair or damage something else. Anyone have a trick up their sleeve to get it off? Thanks

[Ford Idaho]

Try tapping the end of the ratchet with a dead blow hammer, the sudden shock may nudge it.

[Campin Cajun]

Instead of WD40 try some BBQ lighter fluid.

[arpipeliner]

PB Blaster. Several soaks with any solvent. As Idaho says bounces and jars will help to breaks it loose.


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[Lefty59]

I've had good luck using a paper towel soaked in vinegar. Let it set on the spot/threads for a few hours...giving it time to work its way in...and usually whatever it is will then come loose. Remedy was suggested by a plumber and has worked for me.

[Happy Dude]

Thanks I'll give it a try in the am.

[rockfordroo]

After you've put your solvent of choice on the threads, spend a few minutes tapping on it with a hammer. The vibes help the solvent get into the threads.

[Happy Dude]

Thanks for the tip. Hope this works, really don't want to have to replace the hot water heater if I force it and break something.

[Happy Dude]

I really appreciate all the quick and informed responses. Here is another question. Assuming I get the plug out is there something I should do to flush out the hot water heater like CLR ?

[speedjester]

Mix some ATF with some acetone.. Brush it on.. Give it a few minutes and give it a try..

[18CrewDually]

Pneumatic impact gun in short bursts. Or electric impact gun should do the trick.

[JoeR]

Originally Posted by 05CrewDually

Pneumatic impact gun in short bursts. Or electric impact gun should do the trick.

Yeah, I've used this method several times. Variable speed impact gun with just a light "thump, thump, thump" on the plug. This is probably the anode plug if it's a Suburban unit. As previously mention, PB Blaster works well for penetrating oil or if that fails, Kano Kroil. If it's a 2006, it'll need a new anode rod. I also hit the threaded area with a bit of emery cloth to clean up the threads.

For cleaning out the unit, I use a small 3/8 diameter clear silicon hose attached to a shop vac. Rinse with water, then vacuum out all the crud. I usually do this each year when winterizing, just so the unit is all ready for the next year.

JR

[arpipeliner]

Remember to have the water cooled off in the tank. Forgot that only once. No burns but it hurt.


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[JoeR]

Originally Posted by arpipeliner

Remember to have the water cooled off in the tank. Forgot that only once. No burns but it hurt.

Oh yeah, and the water in there will be under pressure. Drain the pressure with the pressure relief lever on top.

You'll only forget that on once also.

JR

[09grizzly1]

I had to use an 18" breaker bar and a lot of force to remove the one on our first t/t. It was 10 years old when we got it. On our new t/t I also had to use the 18" breaker bar to get the anode rod out.

[mlineman55]

If you can not get it loose and feel that you are close to putting too much torque on it ( that point just short of breaking the tank) , you can drill the center of the probe out. Start small dead center. Like 1/16". Then up as far as you can with out hitting the threads. Good Luck

[Mark and Linda]

I am thinking the same as Mlineman1, drill it out if you have too. It might help to relive some of the pressure next to the threads. If you get it out...please respond back..always willing to learn.

[Campin Cajun]

He might have died trying.

[BillyBass]

For cleaning out the tank I take a shop wet vac stick a small piece of tubing in the hose tape it and I suck the water and dirt out of it

[BillyBass]

Did you the the pressure off of it by popping the pop off value