Idea: I have thought about replacing the drain plug on the hot water heater with a spigot similar to what many of us have on our hot water heaters in our homes. The idea is to make draining the tank a bit easier.
Obviously, the spigot would have to be compact enough for the exterior cover to close, and I have not measured how much room I would have. I want some thoughts from you folks. Is this a good idea? Would this cause problems during winter storage (since we always leave the drain plug out)? Please share your thoughts. Thanks.
You can go to almost any RV supply store and get a water heater anode replacement with a built in drain spigot. I have one, but do not have a link to show you. Definitely a good idea, someone just beat you to it.
The drawback(there's always one isn't there?) is the anode is smaller and will have to be replaced more often. A little more pricey, but sure makes it easy to drain the heater whenever you want.
Ken
You can go to almost any RV supply store and get a water heater anode replacement with a built in drain spigot. I have one, but do not have a link to show you. Definitely a good idea, someone just beat you to it.
The drawback(there's always one isn't there?) is the anode is smaller and will have to be replaced more often. A little more pricey, but sure makes it easy to drain the heater whenever you want.
Ken
Reviews on this method are all bad.
1) Very expensive
2) Anode mass is 1/2 the standard anode
3) Anode needs replacing twice as often
4) You never clean out the crap in the tank; so it gets stirred into your plumbing and clogs up the faucets.
Upside... None that comes to mind.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
As I recall, mine cost less than $10.00. I don't consider that to be very expensive compared to other things I have bought for my RV.
I did say it would need to be replaced more often. Convenience always has a price.
Because it is so easy, drain the tank once a month or after each trip, unlike the normal anode which is drained only once a year. This lessens the build up of crud as the heater is empty when not in use and the anode will not have to be replaced as often..
I have found some reviews of products are from those that are disappointed when the item/s turn out not to be plug and play forever.
The upside.....some of the easiest and least expensive maintenance I do.
2nd Rv I have used this on with no heater problems.
So the anode is attached to the drain plug? My last trailer this was NOT so (Atwood water heater).
Yes anode rod is attached.
Attwood doesn't use one as they use a different tank lining.
If u don't use one in a suburban it will be more costly "sooner than later" than the anode rod.
Attwood - porcelain or glass lined.
Suburban - metal or stainless lined.
Turbs.
The reason that the Atwood does not use an anode is that the tank itself is all aluminum and there is no electrolytic action between the aluminum and fresh water.
The Suburbans (most common) have IRON boilers and are porcelain coated all over the insides EXCEPT around the penetrations (drain port, pressure relief valve, electrical element (if equipped), water inlet and outlet ports). If they ran the glass up to the penetration, it would crack there when the item you installed (with pipe threads) torqued the cast iron.
Without the sacrificial anode, any acidic/basic water will quickly rust/corrode the exposed iron and seal the penetrations in FOREVER. You will need to replace the entire heater if you ever burn out the AC heating element, or need to change the pressure relief valve.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
The reason that the Atwood does not use an anode is that the tank itself is all aluminum and there is no electrolytic action between the aluminum and fresh water.
The Suburbans (most common) have IRON boilers and are porcelain coated all over the insides EXCEPT around the penetrations (drain port, pressure relief valve, electrical element (if equipped), water inlet and outlet ports). If they ran the glass up to the penetration, it would crack there when the item you installed (with pipe threads) torqued the cast iron.
Without the sacrificial anode, any acidic/basic water will quickly rust/corrode the exposed iron and seal the penetrations in FOREVER. You will need to replace the entire heater if you ever burn out the AC heating element, or need to change the pressure relief valve.
Posting on the fly bit me.
Ty lou for catching me.
So it sounds like this anode is an inexpensive replacement. Does it and the drain plug come as one piece, and should I just replace it every year since the plug is off for winterization?
So it sounds like this anode is an inexpensive replacement. Does it and the drain plug come as one piece, and should I just replace it every year since the plug is off for winterization?
Yes its one piece.
Yes you could replace it every year.
Inexpensive in relation to some other RV maintenance, yes.
Cheap no
Just drain the tank(very easy with the spigot) when not in use and you can prolong the life of the anode. Remove for winterization and inspect for possible replacement at that time.
If you are going to replace it every year(generally not necessary), then just go with less expensive combo anode/drain plug.
Suburban RV water heaters are known for their porcelain lined steel tank and foam insulation that provides for long life. The high-recovery 12,000 BTU/hour units have a large diameter drain and replaceable anode rod. Heated water corrodes most metals, but the porcelain-lined steel tank features a replaceable anode rod that absorbs the destructive, corrosive action of heated water, ensuring that the entire system lasts longer. The anode rod is attached to the drain plug for easy replacement. Both 6- and 10-gallon LP gas units have 12,000 btu/hr input and an efficient recovery rate
of 10.2 gallons/hour. Direct Spark or pilot ignition models offer an optional electric element to recover an additional 6 gallons/hour at the campsite...
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