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02-15-2018, 09:22 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 8
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Draining hot water tank
I just bought a 2018 shamrock 233s. I've looked all over the bottom of the camper and can't find the valve to drain the hot water tank. Could anyone help me with this?
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02-15-2018, 09:27 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majinchris
I just bought a 2018 shamrock 233s. I've looked all over the bottom of the camper and can't find the valve to drain the hot water tank. Could anyone help me with this?
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Yes... you'll have to open/remove the outside water heater door.
If you have a Suburban water heater, the "plug" will be metal and attached to a sacrificial anode rod. You have to unscrew it AFTER the water is cool and you have released the pressure.
If you have an Atwood water heater, the "plug" will be plastic. You have to unscrew it AFTER the water is cool and you have released the pressure.
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02-15-2018, 09:29 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 8
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thank you very much for your quick reply. Still trying to get adjusted from a trailmanor to the shamrock
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02-15-2018, 09:30 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majinchris
I just bought a 2018 shamrock 233s. I've looked all over the bottom of the camper and can't find the valve to drain the hot water tank. Could anyone help me with this?
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You have to remove the outside WH cover and remove the large plug at the bottom of the tank. Use a 6 point socket. Be very sure you have the 110-volt electric turned off. Reach up and flip open the Pressure Relief valve at the top of the tank. On some models, an anode rod is attached to the plug.
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02-15-2018, 09:33 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie
You have to remove the outside WH cover and remove the large plug at the bottom of the tank. Use a 6 point socket. Be very sure you have the 110-volt electric turned off. Reach up and flip open the Pressure Relief valve at the top of the tank. On some models, an anode rod is attached to the plug.
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Thanks! Glad I signed up for this forum.
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02-15-2018, 09:35 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,587
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Is your water heater made by Suburban or Atwood?
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2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
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02-15-2018, 09:49 PM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,300
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Water heater should be very similar if not identical to the Trailmanor.
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02-16-2018, 07:52 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 8
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One more thing, what's the switch do on the hot water heater? Its located left of the anode rod.
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02-16-2018, 07:53 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 8
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Heater yes, but the trailmanor had a valve beneath the camper to drain the hot water tank
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02-16-2018, 08:02 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 10,525
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IF it's a black rocker switch- it turns the
120v AC heating rod ON/OFF in your water heater.
Shut off the switch now and don't turn it back on until you have refilled your hot water tank next season.
Failure to do this can result in nearly instant burn out of the heater rod.
Ask me how I know this....
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02-16-2018, 08:09 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob
Water heater should be very similar if not identical to the Trailmanor.
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My previous TrailManor 3023 had the exact same Suburban that my Flagstaff does.
To the OP, this FAQ thread may help you understand the operation of the electric heating element on your water heater:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html
Hope it helps, and welcome to FRF from another former TrailManor owner.
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02-16-2018, 01:53 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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1-1/16" socket needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dan
Yes... you'll have to open/remove the outside water heater door.
If you have a Suburban water heater, the "plug" will be metal and attached to a sacrificial anode rod. You have to unscrew it AFTER the water is cool and you have released the pressure.
If you have an Atwood water heater, the "plug" will be plastic. You have to unscrew it AFTER the water is cool and you have released the pressure.
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Since no one else mentioned it, this is most easily done with a 1-1/16" socket and a short (4"-6") 1/2" drive extension and ratchet. A little tricky to find the socket but it's only $ 2.98 at Home Depot. I've never had a problem using a 12-point socket--the anode only needs to be tight enough to seal the plastic ring gasket. But if you insist on a 6-point socket, Home Depot has those too.
Larry
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02-16-2018, 02:11 PM
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#13
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
Since no one else mentioned it, this is most easily done with a 1-1/16" socket and a short (4"-6") 1/2" drive extension and ratchet. A little tricky to find the socket but it's only $ 2.98 at Home Depot. I've never had a problem using a 12-point socket--the anode only needs to be tight enough to seal the plastic ring gasket. But if you insist on a 6-point socket, Home Depot has those too.
Larry
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Usually never a problem using a 12 point socket on the metal, Suburban style plug/anode.
It's the plastic Atwood plugs that a 12 point chews up pretty easily and for those, a 6 point is a much better socket choice.
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02-16-2018, 02:50 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,300
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The switch to the left of the anode rod is the switch to turn on and off AC operation of the WH. If you have an anode rod it is a Suburban WH. My Trailmanor had a Suburban water heater and the only way to drain it was to remove the anode rod or via low point system drains.
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02-16-2018, 02:56 PM
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#15
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Ham Call N8SAC
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wayne County
Posts: 175
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I always remove the 3/4” plug from the bottom of the heater and replace it with a 3/4” X 1/4” reducer then put a 1/4” valve in the reducer. That way I can just open it to drain the tank. As per the anode Don’t use one as it is useless in my case I don’t heave water in tank but a few days in the year.
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02-16-2018, 03:03 PM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,300
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It doesn't take long for damage to occur without an anode rod. If you want to see for yourself. Replace the anode rod and check it after 6mths to a year.
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TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
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Honda 2000I + Companion
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02-16-2018, 06:48 PM
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#17
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Bene Gesserit Rule
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majinchris
I just bought a 2018 shamrock 233s. I've looked all over the bottom of the camper and can't find the valve to drain the hot water tank. Could anyone help me with this?
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For some HW tanks the anode rod is the drain. Not a super efficient place for a drain but it gets most water out. Better if the van is leaning over a bit (jack up the other side). And YES, wait till the water cools down or you will get scalded.
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02-16-2018, 07:33 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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American-Standard comes that way
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwell D Pratt
I always remove the 3/4” plug from the bottom of the heater and replace it with a 3/4” X 1/4” reducer then put a 1/4” valve in the reducer. That way I can just open it to drain the tank. As per the anode Don’t use one as it is useless in my case I don’t heave water in tank but a few days in the year.
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Our 2002 Nash came that way (or prior owner did that mod). The heater is neither a Suburban nor an Atwood, could be American-Standard A-SVDE6 or somesuch, manual is not at our fingertips. The major design difference between it and the Atwoods and Suburbans is that all the electrical stuff is on one end and all the propane stuff is at the other end.
Larry
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02-17-2018, 01:32 PM
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#19
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
Our 2002 Nash came that way (or prior owner did that mod). The heater is neither a Suburban nor an Atwood, could be American-Standard A-SVDE6 or somesuch, manual is not at our fingertips. The major design difference between it and the Atwoods and Suburbans is that all the electrical stuff is on one end and all the propane stuff is at the other end.
Larry
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Yeah and Atwood's are aluminum, no anode, and suburban are steel with anode plugs. Plugs size are different the 1 1/16 are the suburban. Not much similar except they fit in the same home and use electricity and propane. Lol
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