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11-27-2013, 04:42 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Draining hot water tank question?
Is there any other way to drain tank besides removing heater element?
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2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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11-27-2013, 04:47 PM
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#2
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10x
Is there any other way to drain tank besides removing heater element?
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Remove the anode, not the heater element.
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11-27-2013, 05:39 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Remove the anode, not the heater element.
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I meant either one, no other way? I was think of maybe draining it after camping trips.
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2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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11-27-2013, 05:40 PM
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#4
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Engineer of Crazy Train
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tiverton, RI
Posts: 1,585
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Buy an anode with a drain cock.
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11-27-2013, 06:06 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChooChooMan74
Buy an anode with a drain cock.
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I don't think they make a anode rod with a drain, rod is solid.
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2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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11-27-2013, 06:08 PM
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#6
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Engineer of Crazy Train
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tiverton, RI
Posts: 1,585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10x
I don't think they make a anode rod with a drain, rod is solid.
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Camco 11533 RV Anode Rod with Drain for Aluminum Water Heater by Camco http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ECD2I/..._ZSNLsb1YQN9PG
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TV - 2015 Ram Truck EcoDiesel
TV - 2006 Jeep Liberty Turbo Diesel (Retired to Daily Driver)
TT - 2015 Rockwood Roo 183 (SOLD due to 2 years off work)
Locomotive Engineer
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11-27-2013, 06:11 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChooChooMan74
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Awesome, thats what I am getting when I change the anode rod.
Thanks
__________________
2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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11-27-2013, 06:16 PM
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#8
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10x
Awesome, thats what I am getting when I change the anode rod.
Thanks
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They are not for Suburban heaters, Atwoods have aluminum tanks.
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11-27-2013, 06:19 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
They are not for Suburban heaters, Atwoods have aluminum tanks.
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Why wouldn't it work?
__________________
2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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11-27-2013, 06:22 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 710
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It looks like a sure fire way to let the anode threads rust into the tank unless you are religious about making sure you remove the anode once a year and making sure the threads keep spinning freely. Unfortunately too many people are too lazy to remember doing that and will just open the drain-cock instead.
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Heartland Big Country 3150RL
2013 Ford SD F250 4x4 SC; 6.2
Reese 18K Elite w/slider - Rockford, Michigan
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11-27-2013, 06:26 PM
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#11
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Engineer of Crazy Train
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tiverton, RI
Posts: 1,585
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Good to know. Taking that off my Amazon.com wish list.
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TV - 2015 Ram Truck EcoDiesel
TV - 2006 Jeep Liberty Turbo Diesel (Retired to Daily Driver)
TT - 2015 Rockwood Roo 183 (SOLD due to 2 years off work)
Locomotive Engineer
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Come read my Camping Blogs
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11-27-2013, 06:28 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloydg
It looks like a sure fire way to let the anode threads rust into the tank unless you are religious about making sure you remove the anode once a year and making sure the threads keep spinning freely. Unfortunately too many people are too lazy to remember doing that and will just open the drain-cock instead.
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I put anti seize on threads, never have a problem.
__________________
2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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11-27-2013, 06:29 PM
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#13
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10x
Why wouldn't it work?
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Read your Suburban manual, the Atwoods require a different anode material than the Suburban heaters.
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11-27-2013, 06:58 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Here is a video on the subject, thanks Oldcoot for bringing it to our attention.
__________________
2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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11-27-2013, 07:00 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10x
Why wouldn't it work?
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Different size threads (IIRC).
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11-27-2013, 07:04 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob213
Different size threads (IIRC).
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Threads are the same, see video I posted.
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2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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11-27-2013, 07:54 PM
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#17
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,890
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I've read concerns on here that the anode with the drain don't allow the water to glub out fast enough for bits of crud to come out when you drain it.
There was a neat solution where someone put in a T and on one side out in a quarter turn shutoff valve that would make draining it really convenient.
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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11-27-2013, 08:35 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 825
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Open the hot water facets in the trailer when drain the hot water tank it will flow better. I agree with all that was said about not using the anode with the flow through valve on suburban heaters
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2012 Cedar Creek Silverback 29RE
2011 GMC 2500HD Diesel
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12-19-2013, 09:39 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: chesapeake
Posts: 423
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DONT SEE the prob....just take off annually flush out tank good and put back in, get to insp anode, keep from seizing and know u flush out tank good. I can not believe how much deposits came out of my old rv's tank, the anode was prob reduced to a stub. it did not have a drain plug with anode, it was 14 years old.
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12-19-2013, 10:47 PM
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#20
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Anacortesians
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 1,166
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One thing I've done on our rig is to make an aluminum water chute that sit under the anode rod hole and extends over the edge of the WH compartment. Initially, I was concerned about water pooling alongside the edge of the compartment and working its way into the structure.
Now I'm sure the water goes overboard when I drain the heater!
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Frank and Eileen
No longer RVers or FR owners
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