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Old 11-27-2013, 04:42 PM   #1
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Draining hot water tank question?

Is there any other way to drain tank besides removing heater element?
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Old 11-27-2013, 04:47 PM   #2
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Is there any other way to drain tank besides removing heater element?
Remove the anode, not the heater element.
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Old 11-27-2013, 05:39 PM   #3
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Remove the anode, not the heater element.
I meant either one, no other way? I was think of maybe draining it after camping trips.
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Old 11-27-2013, 05:40 PM   #4
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Buy an anode with a drain cock.
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:06 PM   #5
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Buy an anode with a drain cock.
I don't think they make a anode rod with a drain, rod is solid.
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:08 PM   #6
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I don't think they make a anode rod with a drain, rod is solid.
Camco 11533 RV Anode Rod with Drain for Aluminum Water Heater by Camco http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ECD2I/..._ZSNLsb1YQN9PG
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:11 PM   #7
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Camco 11533 RV Anode Rod with Drain for Aluminum Water Heater by Camco Amazon.com: Camco 11533 RV Anode Rod with Drain for Aluminum Water Heater: Automotive
Awesome, thats what I am getting when I change the anode rod.
Thanks
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:16 PM   #8
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Awesome, thats what I am getting when I change the anode rod.
Thanks
They are not for Suburban heaters, Atwoods have aluminum tanks.
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:19 PM   #9
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They are not for Suburban heaters, Atwoods have aluminum tanks.
Why wouldn't it work?
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:22 PM   #10
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It looks like a sure fire way to let the anode threads rust into the tank unless you are religious about making sure you remove the anode once a year and making sure the threads keep spinning freely. Unfortunately too many people are too lazy to remember doing that and will just open the drain-cock instead.
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:26 PM   #11
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Good to know. Taking that off my Amazon.com wish list.
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:28 PM   #12
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It looks like a sure fire way to let the anode threads rust into the tank unless you are religious about making sure you remove the anode once a year and making sure the threads keep spinning freely. Unfortunately too many people are too lazy to remember doing that and will just open the drain-cock instead.
I put anti seize on threads, never have a problem.
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:29 PM   #13
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Why wouldn't it work?
Read your Suburban manual, the Atwoods require a different anode material than the Suburban heaters.
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:58 PM   #14
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Here is a video on the subject, thanks Oldcoot for bringing it to our attention.

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Old 11-27-2013, 07:00 PM   #15
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Why wouldn't it work?
Different size threads (IIRC).
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Old 11-27-2013, 07:04 PM   #16
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Different size threads (IIRC).
Threads are the same, see video I posted.
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Old 11-27-2013, 07:54 PM   #17
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I've read concerns on here that the anode with the drain don't allow the water to glub out fast enough for bits of crud to come out when you drain it.

There was a neat solution where someone put in a T and on one side out in a quarter turn shutoff valve that would make draining it really convenient.
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:35 PM   #18
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Open the hot water facets in the trailer when drain the hot water tank it will flow better. I agree with all that was said about not using the anode with the flow through valve on suburban heaters
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:39 AM   #19
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DONT SEE the prob....just take off annually flush out tank good and put back in, get to insp anode, keep from seizing and know u flush out tank good. I can not believe how much deposits came out of my old rv's tank, the anode was prob reduced to a stub. it did not have a drain plug with anode, it was 14 years old.
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:47 PM   #20
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One thing I've done on our rig is to make an aluminum water chute that sit under the anode rod hole and extends over the edge of the WH compartment. Initially, I was concerned about water pooling alongside the edge of the compartment and working its way into the structure.

Now I'm sure the water goes overboard when I drain the heater!
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