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Old 10-18-2013, 12:35 PM   #1
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Draining Water Heater-Question

I understand how to drain my water heater (winterizing next weekend), but my question is:

I know the plug is VERY tight, I'm getting a socket to use (1 1/16", correct?) How hard can I crank in that thing? I Don't wish to damage my tank, but it needs to be drained of course.
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:41 PM   #2
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I can't answer the "how hard" question as mine was pretty easy the first time and then I wrapped tape around the threads when I re-installed it.

But- you're right about the 1 1/16" socket. I'll also recommend at least a 3" socket extension. I had to be really careful about not scratching my camper the first time that I took mine out.
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:43 PM   #3
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I ended up using a 18v, 3/8 "
Dewalt impact. Worked fine. I made sure to use tape when i reinstalled
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnIII View Post
I understand how to drain my water heater (winterizing next weekend), but my question is:

I know the plug is VERY tight, I'm getting a socket to use (1 1/16", correct?) How hard can I crank in that thing? I Don't wish to damage my tank, but it needs to be drained of course.
look at it this way, you HAVE to get the drain out or risk the water freezing and rupturing the tank. So, if you damage the tank in the process of removing the plug, it was gonna need replaced in the spring anyway.

Mine was very hard the first time. As stated previously use Teflon tape.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:47 PM   #5
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I just replaced my hot water heater anode on a 7 month old 5er. Just like ependydad stated, I used a 3" extension and had to really reef on the wrench in order to turn it. I have to say that you're probably going to have to really put some muscle into it and don't forget to tape the threads when you reinsert it.
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:16 PM   #6
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I believe the factory uses pipe dope on the threads. The stuff holds hard but when you break the bond free, it will spin out with ease.
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:23 PM   #7
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Mine was a real bearcat to remove. Had to soak it with Liquid Wrench to finally get it loose.
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:44 PM   #8
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I believe the factory uses pipe dope on the threads. The stuff holds hard but when you break the bond free, it will spin out with ease.
crunchman
That is the way mine was done and it is just a 3/4 plastic plug because I have no anode.

I have some pipe dope that I will use in the spring, till then I just put the plug in a couple of turns by hand.
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchman12001 View Post
I believe the factory uses pipe dope on the threads. The stuff holds hard but when you break the bond free, it will spin out with ease.
crunchman
This was my experience as well. I found you do not have to tighten the anode all that much when you install it. Just snug enough that it will not leak under pressure. Next year it will come out easy as pie...
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Old 10-19-2013, 03:03 PM   #10
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Through my PDI the tech had removed the anode and let the water drain. Then wrapped the threads with tape and reinstalled. Came out easy the other day when I winterized.

Oh, by the way Herk. Putting the corner of a shop paper towel into the drain hole and letting it siphon all of the water out of the heater works awesome. Great tip!

To others, just kind of twist the corner of a "heavy" paper towel into the drain hole, get it far enough to sag to the bottom, then hang the rest over your hanging heater door and walk away for awhile. Do not remove until the towel stops dripping.
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