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Old 07-11-2011, 08:55 PM   #21
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[QUOTE=Labzy;117254]Ok guys.......after reading all of your replies and realizing my initial mistake, this is what I think happened.

1. I did not know that the water heater switch on the control panel in the trailer, is only used for the gas mode.

2. I turned on the WH switch with the pin, located on the outside panel.

3. I did not have any propane on.

4. The 'dsi flt' light came on, NOT because the electric wasn't working, but instead because I had turned on the gas mode also, and it did not have any propane supplying it. ( I heard it clicking )

Kim, took my trailer out this weekend and did the exact same thing..glad you posted this question, just learned something new!

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Old 07-11-2011, 09:24 PM   #22
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LOL, I think we need a 1-800 number we can call for advice in case of our "emergencies"

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Old 08-19-2011, 08:04 PM   #23
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Avoiding HW electric element damage

When I leave cg often the fresh water is empty and hot water tank close to empty after cleaning dishes. Typically use gas to run HW heater but have the electrical switch outside ON. I understand Suburban doesnt have many safety features other than the pressure relief valve.

Assume the pump is used to fill the HW tank from the fresh water tank when not on city water. The only way to ensure the HW tank is full is to run the hot water tap until no air in the lines.

DoI run the risk of damaging the electric element while the HW tank is nearly empty?
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Old 08-20-2011, 06:37 AM   #24
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Unless you physically drain the lines, I don't think the water tank will empty just because the fresh water tank is empty. The water pump only pumps water, not air. What water is in the water heater will stay there, ready for the next trip.

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Old 08-20-2011, 08:59 AM   #25
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the heating element will last a few seconds with no water (won't define "few"...mine didn't make the first outing but i don't know how long it had been plugged in at the dealer before i took delivery).
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:33 PM   #26
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This thread has been a life saver... I finally closed the stupid H/C bypass valve so now they're on their proper sides of the fence... AND I HAVE HOT WATER!!! That's like cavemen discovering fire.

What I cannot figure out is what does FLT stand for on the gas side? My little electric switch outside didn't have a pin, but I knew to turn it on somehow to get the electric going... just couldn't get more than about 1.5 seconds of hot water in the shower. I read someone else's post in this thread about DSI (direct spark ignition... makes sense). Coming from the gov't world... especially on the DoD side, I can make up tons of acronyms for FLT, but with my Cedar Creek 36RE, I'm lost. I was doing good to figure out that RE is rear entertainment.

I'm pretty new to the RV world, so I'm seriously glad you guys are here.

Thanks in advance,

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Old 06-20-2012, 07:36 AM   #27
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Glad to hear you have your hot water.

FLT means fault and is a safety lock out after a certain number of failed lighting attempts.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:52 AM   #28
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The FLT will light any time the water heater is on "gas" AND it is trying to light.

It will go OFF when the burner lights.

A start cycle consists of 15 seconds of gas only to purge the manifold and then a spark. At this point, providing your get a light, the FLT light should go out.

If a "no ignition" the start cycle will repeat two more times. (each with a 15 second purge and a spark).

Three "No lights" and the unit will lock out for safety.

To clear the lockout, turn the gas switch OFF for a minimum of 5 seconds.

If this happens again check for voltage at the gas solenoid valve during start attemps.

If the FLT light does not come on and the gas switch IS on and the water is COLD, then there is no 12 Volt DC power, the 12 volt high limit switch is open (press reset buttons), or the gas control board is bad.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:45 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by dlhoppe View Post
I like that dual switch. Looks like it's an aftermarket item. Now I have to get me one. LOL!
I considered that Atwood dual switch when planning my remoted water heater switch installation, but discarded the idea because of the logistics of either re-locating the DSI switch function or conversely, running the new AC switching function wiring from the water heater to the control panel. Instead, I just left the DSI switch as is, and located a new on/off switch with indicator LED in our kitchen area and quite close to the water heater. On our trailer (Rockwood SUL 8315BSS) this was quite a simple task, as the receptacle for the 110vac water heater source is under and adjacent to, the kitchen sink.

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Old 06-20-2012, 10:03 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Sounds like you needed to purge the gas line as you did.
I never use both modes but recently I have used electric more because I pay for it in my site fee. You can use both if you have 4 or more taking a shower all at around the same time.
John, reading your post made me wonder why we were never invited over at shower time. Sounds like a fun time...

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