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Old 10-19-2013, 12:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Rupkin2 View Post
I agree with Great Horned Owl, for $4 or $5 a jug and the time this takes.
I get a case and let it run. (I will pour a little extra in the P traps)
Then I will open ALL the taps and drain valves.

John
I bought two jugs at $ 4.89 each plus tax, that is 10 bucks and it took me 20 min in and out.
Not worth the effort to fire up the compressor.
I doubt that there is enough water in the lines to dilute the pink enough to worry about.
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:23 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by kb4srn View Post
Herk, can you explain about burping the check valve? And what about the holding tanks. I don't want them to sit over winter dry so do I drain them and add antifreeze?
The city water connection has a check valve that will not be cleared if you only use the water pump inlet to flush the antifreeze. Remove the screened washer and you will see the stem of the check valve. With "pink" in the lines, put your finger in the inlet and push the stem to the side. It will allow antifreeze to enter the check valve. It will "burp" clear water and pink will follow.

The holding tank flush unit has a vacuum break (check valve) located above the tanks and the outside hose connection. When you remove the hose, water from the vacuum break down to the hose connection will back drain onto your shoes. You may have noticed that before (no worries it is clean water from the tap).

The water from the vacuum break to the tank "SHOULD" drain into the tank through the flush nozzle in the tank. However, water CAN remain inside the plastic nozzle or remain inside the plastic vacuum break. Obviously that would be bad.

I can reach the flush inlet with the hose from my outside faucet and, using an A-663 brass fitting, flush my shower faucet and the turboflush at the same time.
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:06 PM   #13
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It starts to become worth it, when the lines in your rig hold almost 4 gallons, as mine does. And when you have 8 faucets and 2 toilets, there are plenty of spaces that will hold water.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post

The city water connection has a check valve that will not be cleared if you only use the water pump inlet to flush the antifreeze. Remove the screened washer and you will see the stem of the check valve. With "pink" in the lines, put your finger in the inlet and push the stem to the side. It will allow antifreeze to enter the check valve. It will "burp" clear water and pink will follow.

The holding tank flush unit has a vacuum break (check valve) located above the tanks and the outside hose connection. When you remove the hose, water from the vacuum break down to the hose connection will back drain onto your shoes. You may have noticed that before (no worries it is clean water from the tap).

The water from the vacuum break to the tank "SHOULD" drain into the tank through the flush nozzle in the tank. However, water CAN remain inside the plastic nozzle or remain inside the plastic vacuum break. Obviously that would be bad.

I can reach the flush inlet with the hose from my outside faucet and, using an A-663 brass fitting, flush my shower faucet and the turboflush at the same time.
Thanks for the advice. Didn't know about winterizing the check valve.
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:01 AM   #15
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. With "pink" in the lines, put your finger in the inlet and push the stem to the side. It will allow antifreeze to enter the check valve. It will "burp" clear water and pink will follow.

Cautionary note - when you push the stem to the side, stand to one side and make sure you have your mouth closed. I didn't and got a pretty good spraying. RV antifreeze doesn't taste very good at all and the taste does last for a long time in your mouth. 😊
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