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Old 04-07-2014, 05:08 PM   #1
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Erratic hot water heating problems

Took my camper camping for the first time. Hot water heater did great the first day, I believe it is a 6 gal heater. I took a 15 min shower with great hot water and seem to have plenty of water left. The next day took a shower in withing in 2 mins ran out of hot water, I have hot water the next day. What could be the problem?
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Old 04-07-2014, 05:19 PM   #2
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I just went thru something similar and both the heating element was bad as well as the heat limit/ thermastat on a Suburban. i think the former shorted out and caused the latter to blow also.
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:15 PM   #3
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I had a similar thing happen once. Turned to be a trapped air bubble that wasn't letting the tank fill up or heat up properly. I found it by opening the pop-off valve. It was really odd and hasn't happened again.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:56 AM   #4
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Unhappy Simular Issue

I have a 2013 Salem Villa 39FDEN, our first weekend out (Lats Week) it seemed as if we were only getting 3 or so gallons of hot water. Less then 5 min shower!

So I searched the web and this forum.

Checked the 3 winterizing valves...they are positioned correctly.
Tried to burp the pressure valve...no air in the tank (only Hot water)

So I let tank heat up completely and ran only HOT water into the sink with the stopper in. just barley enough hot water to fill the small side of the sink, which I have guessed is somewhere between 2 and 3 gallons, before I got cold water.

Called my dealer and they are useless!

So I am going out to the masses for some answers.

The rig is a new 2013 Salem Villas Classic 39FDEN
water heater is a Suburban SW6DE
I am running it on propane, I can not locate a switch for electric.
(yes there is a breaker and it is NOT tripped...No there is not a little black switch outside in the water heater).

PLEASE!!!! HELP!!!!
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:04 AM   #5
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If it's a suburban then there should be a switch. It's hard to see. Lower left side behind a pipe.

As far as your 3 gallon limit issue. I'm only guessing but maybe the incoming cold water is too cold? As you use the hot water the cold will replace it. Depending on the temperature difference you can quickly lose heat as the cold mixes with the hot.

Running both propane and electric will offset this by heating the water as fast as possible. Not quite the speed of a tankless, but definitely better than just propane alone.
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:40 AM   #6
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Suburban definitely has an outside switch you just haven't found it.



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Old 04-14-2014, 10:41 AM   #7
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Once you find switch you can run on gas and propane together for faster recovery.

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Old 04-14-2014, 10:42 AM   #8
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Is this a park model?

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Old 04-14-2014, 11:21 AM   #9
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I will Check for the "hidden" switch. I hope you are right f1100turbo.
The cold coming in is VERY cold.
Yes my 39FDEN is a park model.
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed92969 View Post
I will Check for the "hidden" switch. I hope you are right f1100turbo.
The cold coming in is VERY cold.
Yes my 39FDEN is a park model.
I don't have a park model but some park models had both the propane and electric switch inside but you still had a switch exterior.
Such as mine pictured.

Very cold water coming in may be some of your issue's with only a 6 gallon wh.
I have 58 degree water coming into mine at home "from a well" and my ten gallon keeps up fine.

You may want to consider a ten gallon if room allows.
My last tt had a 6 gallon and it seemed to keep up in the spring with 58 degree water but then again I was using both gas and electric.



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