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Old 10-04-2012, 11:55 AM   #1
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First time winterize

We have a new Rockwood 2702ss trailer.If I open the low point drains and crack the pressure relief valve on the hot water tank will this completely empty the HT tank?Or should I pull the plug with the rod that seemed very tight when I tried?
I have the tools to pull the plug but scared to reef on it to loosen it?

Thanks TOM
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:38 PM   #2
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Tom:

I don't think the WH will empty through the low-point drains. I always empty mine by removing the anode rod. It has a tapered pipe thread (at least my motorhome tank does) and it takes a 1-1/16th socket for the nut. I wouldn't worry too much about having to really lean on it to break it loose. Put Teflon tape on the threads when you put it back next spring and it will be easier next time.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:45 PM   #3
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F and E Damp, do you always leave your anode rod out all winter? Any concerns about rust? Just wondering. Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:09 PM   #4
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Low point drains will not empty WH. You need to remove plug, and It will drain quicker if you lift up on the relief valve. I put the plug back in loosely until I de-winterize it. Remember to use your WH bypass and close your low point drains before you put in the RV anti freeze.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlacierGus
F and E Damp, do you always leave your anode rod out all winter? Any concerns about rust? Just wondering. Thanks.
I leave mine out all winter .
Others will agree and others will disagree....... it what I do and it works for me.
7 years no issues doing so.


Turbs
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #6
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My two copper colored zinc pennies:

1) I would not attempt to drain my WH through the plumbing. There is an incredible amount of junk in there from gooey calcium to chunks of anode material. This will be sucked into your pipes and then blown into your faucets and toilet when you "water up" next spring. I always shut off the bypass valves before I drain the pipes through the low point drains and pull the anode on the water heater.

2) I always flush the water heater out with a water wand and then teflon the anode threads (after inspection for enough material for another season) and reinstall it. This keeps the threads from rusting and the anode still protects the inside of the water tank from rusting over the winter and keeps bugs from building nests inside the water heater.

3) Always use the teflon tape (or teflon pipe dope) on the anode to prevent the threads from corroding together with the tank socket. Use a 1 and 1/16th inch 12 point socket with extension to remove and install the anode. Yes you can use all kinds of make shift ways to get it out, but if you bugger it up you will be in a world of hurt getting it out after that!

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Old 10-04-2012, 06:18 PM   #7
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Thanks Turbs and Herk. Good discussion.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:36 PM   #8
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Like Turbo said; there is no one answer.
That is just why I do it the way I do.
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:07 AM   #9
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Well I pulled the anode and the hot water tank was empty?So mine must drain as stated below?

TOM






Quote:
Originally Posted by WET COAST View Post
We have a new Rockwood 2702ss trailer.If I open the low point drains and crack the pressure relief valve on the hot water tank will this completely empty the HT tank?Or should I pull the plug with the rod that seemed very tight when I tried?
I have the tools to pull the plug but scared to reef on it to loosen it?

Thanks TOM
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WET COAST View Post
Well I pulled the anode and the hot water tank was empty?So mine must drain as stated below?

TOM
With the appropriate 1 and 1/16 inch socket you should be able to remove the drain plug. If you have a Suburban water heater you should inspect the anode for deterioration every year.

It is what prevents your water tank from rusting out.

The one on the red tool box is still "good;" the "center wire only" one is WAY bad.
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