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Old 10-29-2014, 08:17 PM   #21
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it uses the same pump as for pumping water from fresh tank, just the setting of the valves has it draw from the winterization outlet instead of fresh tank
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:18 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
On your water heater there is a plastic plug, remove it and open the pressure relief valve.
better relieve pressure before removing plug. Don't ask me how I know this
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:20 PM   #23
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You are correct.. don't I feel dumb as I didn't reread the damn sticker. The top valve is the flush valve. The sticker reads "Caution - Do not use the tank flush valves unless the fully termination valve is in the open position. May result in an unsanitary condition leading to illness or personal injury".

So this may be my last question now. So I hook up the water hose to that top valve and turn the water on. What is the "fully termination valve"?? I'm sure it is just terminology I'm not familiar with. Is this just the black tank valve that needs to be open so it doesn't overfill?

I think i'm finally learning lmao.

I appreciate everyones help!!
Yes you are right.....I leave mine closed for a few minutes to float anything stuck to the sides then open the valve.
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:20 PM   #24
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better relieve pressure before removing plug. Don't ask me how I know this
I stand to one side, don't ask me how I learned to do that.....
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:25 PM   #25
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Blwnsmoke, I highly recommend you use the pink stuff too...NH can get real cold as it does here in PA too. The folks that can get away with just air blow out are the warmer winter climates....cheap insurance, why risk it?
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:27 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
On your water heater there is a plastic plug with a green X, remove it and open the pressure relief valve.
I did do that already. The manual does state:

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5. After this procedure, there will be approximately two quarts of water left at the bottom of the inner tank. Should this water freeze it will not cause any splitting of the tank.
So because of that, I figured I'd get a little hand pump and snake it in the drain hole and pump out whatever is left in there.
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:31 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by davel1971 View Post
it uses the same pump as for pumping water from fresh tank, just the setting of the valves has it draw from the winterization outlet instead of fresh tank
Again, amateur move on my part but looking at my valve controls, they stay the same as if I have a water hose hooked up from an outside source.

To repost the pic, the sticker on the top right says "City Water Hookup/Winterize" and shows both valves stay up/down instead of left/right.

I followed both lines on the reverse side and what I believe happens is, the pump automatically pumps the antifreeze because the "city water" hookup has a cap screwed on. Since that is closed/sealed off, it diverts to the other outlet for the antifreeze and pumps from there. I bet if I unscrewed the water hose inlet, it would not pump because it couldn't prime itself pulling from 2 areas at the same time.




Boy did I learn a lot tonight. Thank you to everyone!!
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:33 PM   #28
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Blwnsmoke, I highly recommend you use the pink stuff too...NH can get real cold as it does here in PA too. The folks that can get away with just air blow out are the warmer winter climates....cheap insurance, why risk it?

Frankly I just didn't want to have to deal with sanitizing the system in the spring and flushing all the pink out IF this was a safe method to use (air).
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:35 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by skylking View Post
I am trying to winterize my 2015 Wind Jammer 3008wk. It has an outside connection for winterizing. However when I it up to a bucket of antifreeze, I go inside and turn a valve from tank to outlet and then start the pump. The pump sounds like it is on, but there is nothing being sucked through. Help?
If you have the same setup as mine, do you have the outdoor hose inlet closed off so the pump can prime and pull from the antifreeze line? If it is not closed tight, it's going to pull air from there rather then fluid from the jug.

Just a thought.
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:41 PM   #30
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Frankly I just didn't want to have to deal with sanitizing the system in the spring and flushing all the pink out IF this was a safe method to use (air).
spring flush out is nothing.....just change valves back & run fresh water through. you're done. Water goes clear very quickly & is non toxic.

Trust me you DON"T want to be saying "shoulda/woulda/coulda" next spring!
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