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Old 11-20-2012, 10:16 PM   #1
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Flagstaff Water Heater Help Needed

I just got a 2011 vlite and can't get the hotwater heater to heat. I turned on the switch in the compartment and checked the breakers and fuses. What might be my problem.

It is used...is it possible that the element ran while dry? Cause when I filled up the fresh water tank and turned on the pump I found the pump to run constantly so I crawled under an there was a tiny valve just running wide open.

Did I screw up? If so....how do I change out an element?
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:29 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Onthrvr View Post
I just got a 2011 vlite and can't get the hotwater heater to heat. I turned on the switch in the compartment and checked the breakers and fuses. What might be my problem.

It is used...is it possible that the element ran while dry? Cause when I filled up the fresh water tank and turned on the pump I found the pump to run constantly so I crawled under an there was a tiny valve just running wide open.

Did I screw up? If so....how do I change out an element?
Maybe not yet, the switch inside is normally the propane control. Is it on line? First check at the stove. Is water flowing through the heater, open hot valves inside with pump running. And lastly if all that works the electric heat, if fitted, is by switch found under the burner, open the grilled plate outside to locate. Also there will be a circuit breaker, not fuse in the hinged electric panel inside the coach.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:42 AM   #3
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Make sure the bypass valves are set correctly...that seems to be the number 1 cause of no hot water on the forum.

Make sure that you water in the heater by quickly opening (and then closing) the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank. Be careful.....it could be hot.
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:00 AM   #4
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Confused about the water running out of a valve under the camper.
Is that your fresh water drain valve?

Lots of cool information about your water heater in the FAQ section.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:01 PM   #5
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Yes that was the little valve. So no problem with that. But I'm still tring to figure out the electric problem.

I pushed the reset buttons but there is no button feeling like thing. Since its used the previous owner may have become stressed with it because they like really punched in and not pushed.

Have the propane working though.

The delivery man told me there was a 2 year warranty on the whole camper from FR. I'm wondering how true that is.

Tonight I tried the tv. Seems to have gotten warmed up then flips itself on and off. Goofy stuff.

My camper is just a 2011. I'm hoping I didn't buy someone's lemon.

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Old 11-22-2012, 10:40 PM   #6
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You should also check to may sure that the WH is plugged in. There will be a dedicated plug somewhere behind the WH. May as well check to see if you have 120V at the outlet.

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Old 11-23-2012, 03:52 AM   #7
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The delivery man told me there was a 2 year warranty on the whole camper from FR. I'm wondering how true that is.

My camper is just a 2011. I'm hoping I didn't buy someone's lemon.

Onthrver

if you bought used, there is no FR warranty. only for original owner and the 2nd year is $150 extra.

even though they have their own separate warranties, i don't think the appliances offer a warranty to anyone other than the original owner.
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:32 AM   #8
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Does it heat on propane with the hot water heater switch inside in the on position? This will at least narrow it down a little.
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:43 AM   #9
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If the propane works and the electric element does not; 99% of the time it is a fried electric heating element.

It takes less than 10 seconds with the AC power on and no water to ruin it.
The AC side of the hot water heater is VERY simple to troubleshoot.

If there is 120 volts on the bottom lug of the thermostat and it does not work it is the element.

Note the melted wired between the top and the bottom of the left (AC - Right one is DC) thermostat (bad and needs to be replaced).
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onthrvr View Post
I just got a 2011 vlite and can't get the hotwater heater to heat. I turned on the switch in the compartment and checked the breakers and fuses. What might be my problem.

It is used...is it possible that the element ran while dry? Cause when I filled up the fresh water tank and turned on the pump I found the pump to run constantly so I crawled under an there was a tiny valve just running wide open.

Did I screw up? If so....how do I change out an element?
You could have burned the element but that would depend on how long you had 110v power going to it. There is also 2 resets, make sure you did not trip them. first due what you said, close your tank valve, fill the tank again, then turn on your water pump, open your hot water side at the sink and blow out the air until you have a steady stream of water. Then turn on your electrical switch. Then turn on your propane switch and see if you are getting hot water. You can run the propane and electric together. Now you will know if it is working. First turn your propane off and leave the electrical side on. Run the hot water out at the sink. this time let the electric on only if you do not get hot water in lets say 1/2 hr. Then I would say that you burned out the heater rod. There is a black cover over the element that has to be removed(I think) should just be 1 or 2 screws holding it in, look at either the web site or the manual if you have it for sure. IT would take quite awhile to be on without water in it to burn up, I have found that they are not as delicate as people think. Good luck
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:20 AM   #11
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I'm with herk, a few seconds w/out water and your elements fryed. I have done a continuity test across the conections (with power killed to water heater) on the element to find I had a burnt element.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:39 AM   #12
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My buddy found out how long it actually takes.

He was cleaning out the crud in the tank while winterizing and had the power on. While wiping up the water and crud from around the water heater he flipped the power switch on by mistake. Sparks immediately shot out of the anode/drain hole.

There was no "seconds" in his case, it was immediate.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:58 AM   #13
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Boy i bet that was suprizing! Kinda like a light bulb element with no vacume
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:00 AM   #14
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His email was VERY descriptive.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:55 PM   #15
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It works with the propane just fine. But my permanent campsite comes with electric so of course, I want to use all that!

So I go to camping world...they think their replacement element is worth $36.00. I bought it.....then off to Home Depot where they have an extremely similar looking heating element for $9.

The difference I can see is the suburban element is flatish on the end. Do I have to use camping world? Are their other options? Pricey place it seems. Help!

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Old 11-23-2012, 07:08 PM   #16
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It works with the propane just fine. But my permanent campsite comes with electric so of course, I want to use all that!

So I go to camping world...they think their replacement element is worth $36.00. I bought it.....then off to Home Depot where they have an extremely similar looking heating element for $9.

The difference I can see is the suburban element is flatish on the end. Do I have to use camping world? Are their other options? Pricey place it seems. Help!

Onthrvr.
Nope,use the Home Depot one. Youroo!!
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:22 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Onthrvr View Post
It works with the propane just fine. But my permanent campsite comes with electric so of course, I want to use all that!

So I go to camping world...they think their replacement element is worth $36.00. I bought it.....then off to Home Depot where they have an extremely similar looking heating element for $9.

The difference I can see is the suburban element is flatish on the end. Do I have to use camping world? Are their other options? Pricey place it seems. Help!

Onthrvr.
Just make sure the home depot one is 110 volts (not 220) and about the same length and wattage.
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:36 PM   #18
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I believe you've been told everything except to open the pressure relieve valve. It's located behind the outside grate towards the top of the panel. It is a valve with a metal lever. Your hot water tank at home has one just like it. If you open that valve and no water comes out the bypass valve on the back of the tank is closed and your heater tank has no water in it. It's closed so you can bypass the tank when using antifreeze to winterize your water lines. There's no need in putting 6 gallons of antifreeze in the water tank. Opening up a hot water faucet inside won't tell you if the water tank is full. Why do I know ?? Because I did it. Also there is a switch on the lower left corner near the element which is to turn on the electric element. It should be black. Some campers are set up with two switches for electric water heat. One is outside on the heater and the other is inside the camper. Most leave the outside switch on and use the inside switch when they need hot water. Don't forget to switch the outside switch off when you winterize because you are going to empty the tank. You may forget and plug in to 110-V to charge your batteries as I did and since I don't have the inside switch I almost burned out the element. There was just enough water in the bottom of the tank to prevent wasting the element. If the tank is empty it could burn out in as little as 30-60 seconds. I know because I did it.
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:31 PM   #19
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No the pressure valve bubbles and flows out with plenty of water. So, I know I'm good there. I will. Go back to the Home Depot tomorrow and pick the nine dollar element up. Sounds wonderful to me.

Now, later tomorrow ill know if all this has worked. I will report back.

Where else can one buy things for the camper? I need the get the rock and rolling tuned down. They say chocks and scissor jacks. What say y'all?
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:40 PM   #20
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There are lots of places online for camping, just do a simple Google search. Locally, you are of course limited to RV dealers. Also most Walmart have a larger selection of accessories and common things, like sewage hoses, connectors, etc.
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