Fresh water tank bowed, can't fully empty.

[Outsider]

2015 Coachman Clipper 16B Travel Trailer. We've only had it one year.



About to do our first boondocking for the year and want to clean and freshen the fresh water tank. I learned today that the tank is bowed so badly that the drain or the pump will only remove about 75% of the water at the most. I've never liked that it is only held in place by 2 straps. I added a 3rd across the center today (tighter than the other 2) but it helped very little other than it does supply additional support, which is good.


The pump intake and the tank drain T's at the bottom of the tank. My guess is that 5-7 gallons are being left in the tank at all times and can't be used or drained.


I've seen somewhere on a forum where a gentleman added 1, 2, or 3 metal angle iron braces across the bottom of the tank with pics but I can't find that now. Anyone know where that "fix" is located or other documentation on how to make the bottom of the tank more flat and thereby get more complete use of the fresh water and be able to flush and clean it better each season?


Thanks for your help.


Outsider

[McKannick]

Originally Posted by Outsider

2015 Coachman Clipper 16B Travel Trailer. We've only had it one year.



About to do our first boondocking for the year and want to clean and freshen the fresh water tank. I learned today that the tank is bowed so badly that the drain or the pump will only remove about 75% of the water at the most. I've never liked that it is only held in place by 2 straps. I added a 3rd across the center today (tighter than the other 2) but it helped very little other than it does supply additional support, which is good.


The pump intake and the tank drain T's at the bottom of the tank. My guess is that 5-7 gallons are being left in the tank at all times and can't be used or drained.


I've seen somewhere on a forum where a gentleman added 1, 2, or 3 metal angle iron braces across the bottom of the tank with pics but I can't find that now. Anyone know where that "fix" is located or other documentation on how to make the bottom of the tank more flat and thereby get more complete use of the fresh water and be able to flush and clean it better each season?


Thanks for your help.


Outsider

Sounds like you need to do like this guy's repair:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjiw-2PQ0Z4

[TitanMike]

First thing I would do is to see if there is any space to allow the tank to be raised. If you watch the video that was attached, while the guy was jacking up the support to straighten the support, the tank was able to be raised an estimated 2" or so.

If you have room for the tank to be raised consider adding a piece of marine grade plywood that is the same size as the tank's bottom on top of the supports. I'd consider 3/4" to be minimum thickness with one inch being better.

Paint the plywood for even more water resistance.

This will provide a "flat floor" for the tank and prevent the sag.


As an alternate, if you can't raise the tank, hangar brackets can be added to the frame on either end of the tank and then put the plywood under the tank and support with some U-Channel or square tubing from end to end, holding up the plywood and tank.

Problem with using straps or metal cross bars is that they only support the tank in a narrow area and the tank will continue to bulge around it. Having a flat structural support like the plywood prevents the bulges.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Outsider

I've seen somewhere on a forum where a gentleman added 1, 2, or 3 metal angle iron braces across the bottom of the tank with pics but I can't find that now. Anyone know where that "fix" is located or other documentation on how to make the bottom of the tank more flat and thereby get more complete use of the fresh water and be able to flush and clean it better each season?


Thanks for your help.


Outsider

I was one of those people.


This compares the size of the original braces to what I put in.



This shows new braces in place of old ones. I used stainless bolts on the lip of the frame. Of course yours may require a different attachment. I weld so I had many options I could do.



The braces I used were super overkill. They were around 4" wide and over an inch tall and 3/16" or so thick. Can go smaller like 3"x1"x1/8" likely depending onthe size of the tank and how many braces.

[jwfrede]

Originally Posted by babock

I was one of those people.


This compares the size of the original braces to what I put in.



This shows new braces in place of old ones. I used stainless bolts on the lip of the frame. Of course yours may require a different attachment. I weld so I had many options I could do.



The braces I used were super overkill. They were around 4" wide and over an inch tall and 3/16" or so thick. Can go smaller like 3"x1"x1/8" likely depending onthe size of the tank and how many braces.

Those beams are steel. I bought some cheap aluminium channel beams of about the same thickness, very cheap on Amazon. Sometimes you get lucky.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by babock

I weld so I had many options I could do.

I too weld but rarely when I think I might eventually have to remove what I've welded on

When I had the bottom cover off of my TT to do some wiring upgrading I noticed very slight sagging. There were a total of two lateral supports (at edges) and three longitudinal support/braces. I estimated that I probably had less than a couple gallons "trapped" in my tank and since the supports looked adequate I just left it all.

You must have a lot of steel stashed in your shop. I've seen the pic's of your battery mount too

[Photo Lab]

As an easy redneck solution, I have in the past parked on a slope with the drain at the lowest point, and let gravity do the work. This also makes the lifting of the tank much easier, when installing a plywood deck under it. If you can't readily get marine plywood, you could use the CDX sheathing grade, which uses water resistant glue also, and is much cheaper. 3/4" is also a great plan, or two layers of 1/2" would be better, since you will have much of the sheet left over anyway. And yes, by all means paint the wood well, including the edges. I use old fashioned Rustoleum for most stuff. Look for the variety with the red logo on the label, as it is the most durable.

If you have a metal warehouse nearby, such as Pipe Plus, they can supply whatever channel you may want, and can even press brake special sizes for you. I don't believe I would go heavier than about 3/16" thick. Remember, most of the strength is in the vertical sides when installed.

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by Outsider

2015 Coachman Clipper 16B Travel Trailer. We've only had it one year.



About to do our first boondocking for the year and want to clean and freshen the fresh water tank. I learned today that the tank is bowed so badly that the drain or the pump will only remove about 75% of the water at the most. I've never liked that it is only held in place by 2 straps. I added a 3rd across the center today (tighter than the other 2) but it helped very little other than it does supply additional support, which is good.


The pump intake and the tank drain T's at the bottom of the tank. My guess is that 5-7 gallons are being left in the tank at all times and can't be used or drained.


I've seen somewhere on a forum where a gentleman added 1, 2, or 3 metal angle iron braces across the bottom of the tank with pics but I can't find that now. Anyone know where that "fix" is located or other documentation on how to make the bottom of the tank more flat and thereby get more complete use of the fresh water and be able to flush and clean it better each season?


Thanks for your help.


Outsider

I had my tank fall out onto the front axle and the only thing holding it in place was the gas line. it was half full of water so I jacked the tank up with a hydraulic car jack and a length of wood so I could drain it completely. I then went to tractor supply and bought two 4 foot lengths of angle. I was able to get the tank back into the area it was supposed to be when it was empty I then held it up there with a car jack and cut the angle into 2 foot sections so I could support the front of the tank to a cross brace that ran between the frame rails, I clamped then in place with "C" clamps and then drilled and bolted the angles. These angles run front to rear across the bottom of the water tank. I would show pictures but the unit is in the dealer for other repairs and to have the angles welded into place. This seems to be a real problem these days as they keep trying to find cheaper ways to lighten these trailers so they can be towed by 1/2 ton or smaller vehicles.

[Poper]

Here’s what I did. Used cdx plywood but only had room for 1/2”. Unfortunately I didn’t think to paint or preserve the plywood��. the Ultimate goal was to get a flat surface to distribute the weight. I then used 1/2” square tubing, followed by heavy guage aluminum C Channel on exterior,(not shown) ran across the TT frame to frame perpendicular to the 1/2” square tubing after re installing the coroplast enclosed belly
Been three seasons now. Always boon dock, always carry full tank. 52 gals approximately 400 lbs. so far no issues.

[Waterops1]

I was able to fabricate a polyethylene flange and mount it beneath the tank using 1/4-20 SS hardware. While not a boondocker, I wanted to be able to completely drain my tank after use or disinfecting.

The photos show (in somewhat reverse order), how I accomplished mounting a flange without access other than through a 2-1/4” hole on the bottom.

Apologies-I am another of those here that can’t get photos oriented properly.

[happychappie]

Have you searched all posts using search feature? Try this link here on other water tank issues: http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f34/2909ws-fresh-water-tank-size-problem-189248.html

[BillyBass]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

First thing I would do is to see if there is any space to allow the tank to be raised. If you watch the video that was attached, while the guy was jacking up the support to straighten the support, the tank was able to be raised an estimated 2" or so.

If you have room for the tank to be raised consider adding a piece of marine grade plywood that is the same size as the tank's bottom on top of the supports. I'd consider 3/4" to be minimum thickness with one inch being better.

Paint the plywood for even more water resistance.

This will provide a "flat floor" for the tank and prevent the sag.


As an alternate, if you can't raise the tank, hangar brackets can be added to the frame on either end of the tank and then put the plywood under the tank and support with some U-Channel or square tubing from end to end, holding up the plywood and tank.

Problem with using straps or metal cross bars is that they only support the tank in a narrow area and the tank will continue to bulge around it. Having a flat structural support like the plywood prevents the bulges.

Great idea with the plywood

[Outsider]

HappyChappie, Yes I searched using multiple word groups but did not come up with the exact thread and pics that I was looking for.


However I did get some very good and workable ideas with this thread.


Thanks.

[babock]

I would never weld something that was permanent to the trailer. Sometimes you have to weld the bracket into a U configuration so that you can then bolt it to to trailer frame

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I too weld but rarely when I think I might eventually have to remove what I've welded on

When I had the bottom cover off of my TT to do some wiring upgrading I noticed very slight sagging. There were a total of two lateral supports (at edges) and three longitudinal support/braces. I estimated that I probably had less than a couple gallons "trapped" in my tank and since the supports looked adequate I just left it all.

You must have a lot of steel stashed in your shop. I've seen the pic's of your battery mount too

[jocelyn1]

Reply from Tapatalk

[tapatest]

Originally Posted by jocelyn1

Reply from Tapatalk

Replied; please delete this test post