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Old 10-16-2018, 02:52 PM   #1
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Fresh water tank filling up with water.

I have an 2017 Forest River Surveyor 243RBS and it is hooked up to campground water. It stays there all year. Why would my water tank fill up without using the water pump? I emptied it and it still has water dripping from the drain a week later.
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Old 10-16-2018, 03:04 PM   #2
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Sounds like the check valve in your water pump went bad.

You don't need to replace the water pump, however.

You can buy a brass check valve at Camping World or other RV parts store and put it in line to stop the city water from flowing back through the pump and into the fresh water tank.

Take less than five minutes and basically no tools to fix.
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:33 PM   #3
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This topic surfaces every so often. Although the solution has merit, the posts do not clarify the where and justification for that position. So I asked for that info and received no response to date.
The positions are quantified in the poll. Back Flow Preventer
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:02 PM   #4
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Try this:
Shut off city water outside.
Open any faucet inside and let it run until the water stops.
Leave faucet open.
Turn on water pump and let it run for 30 sec.
Close faucet.
turn off water pump.
Reconnect the city water.


If the water pump gets turned on when connected to city water, it can cause the backflow valve to seat improperly. The above reseats it.
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Old 10-17-2018, 08:52 AM   #5
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This just happened to me in El Reno, OK.

I shut off city water.
Turned on water pump and let it run a few minutes into gray tank.
I shut off water pump.

I opened fresh tank drain valve and drained fresh tank completely until it stopped dripping. I left it open.

I then turned on city water to check if the check valve had seated.
It was still dripping slowly.

I shut off city water and repeated with running pump briefly. It was mostly dry, but spinning the motor still pushed the water out. I turned it off.

When I turned on the city this time, no drips. Closed fresh water drain valve and put a few gallons back in for the next leg of our trip.

I did buy a 1/2 inch NPT brass one way check valve and nipple in case it happens again.

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Old 10-17-2018, 09:06 AM   #6
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Why that works:

Inside the valve assembly in the water pump head is a rubber check valve that allows water to pass when the pump is running, but close when the city water pressure is higher than the pump pressure (zero when its off). This prevents the motor from spinning backwards and filling the fresh water tank.

Sometimes crud from the fresh tank will get trapped under the rubber flapper allowing water to slip under the valve and fill the fresh tank.

Sometimes, running the pump will flush that crud into the cold water pipes clearing the obstruction.

On older pumps, the rubber valve can deteriorate and leak. In this case, rebuilding the pump or replacing it will be your choices.

For the thrifty, you can just add a one way check valve between the pump outlet and the camper's water pipes. Make sure the arrow on the valve points away from the pump!
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Old 10-17-2018, 09:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Why that works:

Inside the valve assembly in the water pump head is a rubber check valve that allows water to pass when the pump is running, but close when the city water pressure is higher than the pump pressure (zero when its off). This prevents the motor from spinning backwards and filling the fresh water tank.

Sometimes crud from the fresh tank will get trapped under the rubber flapper allowing water to slip under the valve and fill the fresh tank.

Sometimes, running the pump will flush that crud into the cold water pipes clearing the obstruction.

On older pumps, the rubber valve can deteriorate and leak. In this case, rebuilding the pump or replacing it will be your choices.

For the thrifty, you can just add a one way check valve between the pump outlet and the camper's water pipes. Make sure the arrow on the valve points away from the pump!
Seems to me that if the pump has a hard bypass issue the check valve should be installed between the tank and the pump (arrow towards pump) so if the pump is used it won't cycle uselessly.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
Try this:
Shut off city water outside.
Open any faucet inside and let it run until the water stops.
Leave faucet open.
Turn on water pump and let it run for 30 sec.
Close faucet.
turn off water pump.
Reconnect the city water.


If the water pump gets turned on when connected to city water, it can cause the backflow valve to seat improperly. The above reseats it.
I've had water overflow my fresh water tank twice on two different RV's. Performed the above in both cases and worked both times. Sure was easier than going out and buying and installing new parts.
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:12 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Lloydg View Post
I've had water overflow my fresh water tank twice on two different RV's. Performed the above in both cases and worked both times. Sure was easier than going out and buying and installing new parts.
That is exactly the reason I suggested just putting a separate check valve instead of fixing the pump or replacing the pump.

Much easier to do and most likely a one time fix.

If putting a new check valve in the pump, chances are you'll be in there again in a year or two doing it all over again.
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Old 10-18-2018, 05:41 AM   #10
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I've had three RV's in my life and have a bit of experience but I read this forum all the time and learn something every day. Great information John and Herk7769. Thanks.
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