Freshwater tank backfilling on city water

[ependydad]

The freshwater tank is backfilling when I’m on city water.

I can stop it temporarily by turning off the water, switching to the pump, running for a bit, and then turning the city water back on. I guess there’s a check valve that needs to be reseated.

But it’s happened probably 3-5 times in the last 2-3 weeks.

I always use a pressure regulator and don’t have both the pump on when I have city water connected.

Is the check valve in the pump user replaceable?

[HangDiver]

One option is to not mess with the water pump and just install a check valve on the line between the fresh water tank and water pump.
https://www.rvautoparts.com/P23415LF...iABEgLyiPD_BwE

[llr]

Not sure if it is easily replace able.
Try turning off city water and the pump, open hot and cold faucet to release pressure, close faucets then turn the pump on, run a little water, close faucets, turn off the pump and turn on the city water. If this doesn't reset the check valve it is probably bad.

[HangDiver]

In fact, it looks like it would install in a minute between the white threaded fitting and the strainer on this side of the water pump in your photo.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by llr

Not sure if it is easily replace able.
Try turning off city water and the pump, open hot and cold faucet to release pressure, close faucets then turn the pump on, run a little water, close faucets, turn off the pump and turn on the city water. If this doesn't reset the check valve it is probably bad.

I can get it to reset- it just unsets itself periodically (and lately frequently).

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by HangDiver

In fact, it looks like it would install in a minute between the white threaded fitting and the strainer on this side of the water pump in your photo.

Interesting thought. Just add a new one...

[HangDiver]

Originally Posted by ependydad

Interesting thought. Just add a new one...

I have a couple plumbing mods I'm going to make this spring and adding another check valve on that line as a preventative measure is one of them.

Good luck.

[KyDan]

Edit: I can't see the model # in your photo but it looks like mine.

Hey Doug, to answer your original question- yes the pump can easily be disassembled and rebuilt. I cannot tell you what parts would cost but I know this--
Early this spring mine was acting up so I took it out and to the workbench.
I removed the 8(?) phillips screws and pulled the black plastic side away from the pot metal side. There is a large single piece rubber multil function diaphram in there.
That big square piece of rubber has a lot going on.
The pump is 4 chamber and that one piece takes care of all 4 chambers as well as having the back flow check valve built in. Replacing that would do it all I believe.

I did not replace mine. My issue was from the get go when the trailer was new if we turned on a faucet to a very low flow- just slightly more than a dribble- it would act funny. Instead of BRRRRR-pause-BRRRRR-pause like you would expect it would go into some sort of stuttery jiggedy-jiggedy-jiggedy sound with no pause.
Yeah it sound funny but if you say it out loud you get the idea. It got to where it
was doing that stutter even with faucets on full blast. This meant full blast wasn't.
It was only pumping less than half what it should.

I took apart the pump as described above and could not find anything wrong at all.
It all looked great with no debris or anything. What I found for MY problem was I discovered the pressure switch on the pump is adjustable. It takes a small (metric?) allen wrench. I gave it a full turn to the right and it solved my pump stuttering.
Pressure doesn't seem to be much more but flow is good.

You might disassemble yours and find a tiny piece of debris in the check valve or you
might not find anything at all. I can get mine out and on the bench in 5 minutes.
ME- I'd take it apart and look for damage or debris in the check valve.
As mentioned- I didn't pursue buying parts but I'd bet you can get them on Ebay by looking for your pump model number and repair kit. Donno if it would be cost effective as a new pump isn't too bad $$ wise. Also available on Ebay.

[KyDan]

Follow up thoughts-- Doug
OF course you can't use your water while the pump is out.
Turn off city water and shut off water heater just to be safe.
Relieve all pressure!!

If you take it apart and for some reason are unable to get it back together- you won't have water until you get it fixed/replaced.

In my case I was at home and wasn't worried about not having water
for a few days while I ordered parts. (which I didn't need after all)

Good luck!

[Mr. Dan]

Doug, here's what I've learned fooling with my pump and Uncle Gene's pump.
That little round anti-reversing valve IS user replaceable. You can buy parts for Shurflo pumps. You may or may not be able to buy just the anti-reversing valve (I'll post a pic below).
1. The problem I had (not your problem) is high campground pressure (apparently) had "jammed" my valve into the hole it was meant to plug to the point it wouldn't free up when it should have. Thus it wouldn't pump from the fresh water tank. I took the pump apart and pushed with both thumbs "with all my might!" until it popped out and across the room. The little round valve has a rubber O-ring seal but apparently the plastic valve stuck in the plastic hole and the O-ring wouldn't always prevent it. For this problem, I learned to open a faucet, turn on the pump, set my anti-freeze valve to open the anti-freeze hose. Then I blew into that hose (yes, with all my might) until I unjammed the valve and got the pump to prime and pump fresh water. [My trailer is now in a service department for several extended warranty issues and the warranty is covering the installation of a new pump.]
2. Uncle Gene's SOB unit kept overflowing the fresh water tank when on campground water - same problem as yours. We did all the suggested methods of clearing whatever was holding the anti-reversing valve open when it should have been closed. We could never clear it. He had a service department install a check valve as described above which solved his problem for a while. Later, his pump stopped priming from the fresh water tank (same symptom as #1 above). When I removed his pump (MUCH more difficult than removing mine) and disassembled it, I found that his rubber O-ring has come out of its slot and had caused the anti-reversing valve to jam in the hole - same is mine. For his first problem, the messed up O-ring was hold the valve open and overflowing the tank. Then the O-ring moved enough to jam the valve in the hole and cause problem #1 above. We found a correct O-ring in his stash and fixed it. { It turns out the in-line check valve he had installed took up too much space where the water line went through the floor and made my R&R job harder.} Yeah... I know. You're asleep from reading this. Now wake up and fix something!


Anti-reversing valve is the little circle eccentric to the big circle in the middle.

[ependydad]

Thanks for the info, everyone! It’s raining cats and dogs out there now so this is going to have to wait a couple days until I can empty my storage hatch and get down to the pump again.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by HangDiver

One option is to not mess with the water pump and just install a check valve on the line between the fresh water tank and water pump.
https://www.rvautoparts.com/P23415LF...iABEgLyiPD_BwE

Originally Posted by HangDiver

In fact, it looks like it would install in a minute between the white threaded fitting and the strainer on this side of the water pump in your photo.

Originally Posted by HangDiver

I have a couple plumbing mods I'm going to make this spring and adding another check valve on that line as a preventative measure is one of them.

Good luck.

Installing a separate check valve will fix it for sure.

I would caution though to NOT install it on the suction side of the pump.
The suction strainer is NOT rated for pressure and that is what you'll have when the pump's check valve fails and you rely on the newly installed check valve to stop the flow to the tank.

Install the check valve on the outlet side of the pump to protect the pump and the suction strainer.

Or at the very least, between the pump inlet and the suction strainer but pressure side of pump is best.

[youroo]

The install of a check valve on the suction side of pump will be "Restrictive" due to the size and design of small check valves! Repair or Replace check valve in your present Pump,if it has served you well no need to change! Youroo!!

[johnruff]

I had the same problem on our last trip including the rain storm. Just purchased a new Shureflo pump and put it on as well as a spare from Amazon later to use when it happens again. If you just like to fool with taking it apart, trying to fix it and mess with it just do it after you get home. Also, I ran off the pump until it was almost empty and then drained it once I got home from the trip. Plus after I got home I could play with the broken pump at my leisure and if I screwed it up or if I got frustrated with it, the trash can was right there - LOL.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by johnruff

If you just like to fool with taking it apart, trying to fix it and mess with it just do it after you get home.

My family and I fulltime... we are always home!

I might just buy a new pump and swap it out solely to have this one as a transfer pump for moving water from my bladder to the tank when boondocking.

[HangDiver]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Installing a separate check valve will fix it for sure.

I would caution though to NOT install it on the suction side of the pump.
The suction strainer is NOT rated for pressure and that is what you'll have when the pump's check valve fails and you rely on the newly installed check valve to stop the flow to the tank.

Install the check valve on the outlet side of the pump to protect the pump and the suction strainer.

Or at the very least, between the pump inlet and the suction strainer but pressure side of pump is best.

Thanks for that advice - I had not thought of putting it on the outlet side of the pump, but that would serve the same purpose.

Thanks again.

[stacyrus]

We also have the same issue. I read last night on one of the Cedar Creek RV Facebook group that this issue can also be caused from low water pressure.

[rebeltown]

My buddy had a check valve problem to the freshwater tank while camping and we went to the local hardware store, bought an inline quick connect shut-off valve and installed it in 5 minutes between the pump and freshwater tank. Easy peezy. Just need to remember to turn on or off depending on water source.

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by ependydad

My family and I fulltime... we are always home!
I might just buy a new pump and swap it out solely to have this one as a transfer pump for moving water from my bladder to the tank when boondocking.

That sounds like a plan! FWIW ShurFlow Revolution pumps all over Ebay in the $60 range incl shipping. Note- most don't include the strainer. Donno if you'd need a strainer on water transfer duty. They run about $6 more if you
do.
Good Luck!

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by rebeltown

....
Easy peezy. Just need to remember to turn on or off depending on water source.

Yeah, right.... there's the not-so-easy-peezy part for us OLD GEEZERS! Now... where are my keys?