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Old 04-12-2012, 06:51 PM   #1
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Location: Albany, GA.
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Glue, just glue

Is the reason my grey water valve has leaked since day one. I bought this unit used from the OP. He told me that the grey water vave had always leaked a little so be careful when removing the cap on the drain/waste line. My valves are also cable operated () and the cables don't feel right. So today I decided to investigate/repair these. First--this is a Forest River Grand Surveyor whom someone thought it would be a good idea to completely enclose the undercarriage--not a good idea IMO. I had to remove one whole panel of this undercarriage sheet metal nusiance stuff to even find the valves. Once the grey water valve was removed it was obvious as to why it had the small leak---yellow PVC cement in the seat of the valve itself. Not "stuff", glue. Now to the black water valve, after removing it I find that the sides of the gate valve have a very slight (1/32" or so) opening on each side of the part that slides. Not good--this could not possibly seal off. And another thing--my shower pan goes directly into the black water tank. I looked really good when I could get under there to see everything. The toilet dumps directly down into the black tank and the shower pan is run about 14" to the black water tank. Only the bath sink and kitchen sink go into the grey tank. New valves tomorrow, no way I'm putting the old ones back in as hard as it was to remove them. I may even have to apply for my "RV plumber license" when this is over.

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Old 04-12-2012, 07:09 PM   #2
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You should look into re-piping the shower to the gray water tank while you have everything accessible. If you're using the shower much you'll fill the black tank fast.



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Old 04-12-2012, 10:56 PM   #3
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Thank You for the info Dave. I do understand that this piping set-up will fill the black tank faster, but: Maybe I can post a photo to show you why I won't try to change the piping--The shower is on the left (drivers) side of the unit. The piping leaves the shower pan, has a "P" trap (that's good) then travels about 8" towards the left wall before going through the units wooden floor. After leaving the floor the piping travels about 14" more to the left then enters the black tank. In order to change this piping I would have to drop the black tank, do the re-piping, then put the tank back. Quite frankly, with this units covered (wrinkled sheet metal) bottom I just don't won't to tackle all of this at this time. The grey tank dropped about 2" when I removed the bolts holding the grey water valve on, so now I have to figure out this one. I learned my lesson last weekend with the water coming out of the bottom of the toilet, thinking it was black water but was actually grey water. The "Buddy Tank" will be traveling with me from now on for stays of over two nights. With the glue on the grey tank valve and the black tank valve not closing properly I now understand how the water transferred from one tank to another. I have a business where I do "HouseHold HandyMan" type work, am a licensed electrician and plumber, but this RV repair work is a new learning curve and I'm enjoying it actually.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:20 PM   #4
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Location: Upstate (Albany Area) NY
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I've been "snooping around" under my tt, trying to figure out a valve configuration that would allow me to put the shower into the tank of my choosing. I'd like to be able to "top off" the black (to facilitate a more watery dump) on the last day of a camping trip, with my morning shower.
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