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Old 10-25-2010, 07:34 PM   #11
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About the relief valve. It says in the owners manual that it is supposed to leak a little ...but how much is a little. I find it leaks so much that the compartment under the heater accumulates water. Should I replace it?
They are not very expensive and easy to change. Use Teflon Tape or Teflon Pipe Sealant and make sure it is the correct pressure for your water heater.

I don't care what the manual says, they should not leak. If they did my basement would be underwater.

That is not to say they can't "pop off" and relieve pressure with a little water, AS LONG AS THEY RESEAT (seal). They are doing their job when that happens.

If it leaks all the time replace it.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:29 PM   #12
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The relief valve should be tested as part as a PM program, this is a safety devise, if it fails then it should be replaced if it is old, but remember replace it with the same ratings (temperature & PSI) as the original. Corrossion can occur on the spring on the relief valve and weaken and then the valve will fail. This depends on the water condition as It does on the anode rod as to how fast it will corrode and how long the water stays in the tank.
As stated above as far as debris if it gets into the relief valve and it doesn't seal then should be a good indicator that the water tank needs to be cleaned out better and then test it....Flush, Flush, Flush.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:37 PM   #13
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Thanks herk! I agree with what you have written. Thanks....I will be ordering a new one for the spring thaw - can't wait....is it April yet!?
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Old 10-26-2010, 12:44 AM   #14
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When I winterized my TT, I drained the water heater 1st, them used a long plastic nozzle (Camco I think) that I purchased @ CW to flush the crud out. The w/ a compressed air blow off nozzle that has 3/16" steel tubing soldered to it, I blew out as much water as I could. I then reinstalled the anode.
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:46 PM   #15
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Lightbulb

Here's the item I was posting about.

Amazon.com: Camco 11691 RV Water Heater Tank Rinser: Automotive: Reviews, Prices & more
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:02 PM   #16
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and do yourself a favor...if you use air to blow out your lines...don't bypass your water heater with the air pressure on... loooong story short...anode rods become dangerous projectiles with 50lbs pressure behind them. I use a wet dry shop vac also with a small hose that will fit in the anode rod hole to suck all the water out... wet and dry vac works great for the p-traps in the sinks ... then i dump in some antifreeze to replace the water. I do this as I don't want diluted antifreeze.
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:11 PM   #17
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How do you you remove the anoid? What does the do? On my pop up there was a white plastic cap that I removed to drain the tank.
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:16 PM   #18
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I have something almost exactly like that for adding water to my potable water tank...never thought of using it to flush the wh tank! It think it would work as long as the tank isn't hot!
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:27 PM   #19
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How do you you remove the anoid? What does the do? On my pop up there was a white plastic cap that I removed to drain the tank.
The anode is used on Suburban-brand water heaters. The anode is attached to the "stopper" so that it serves as the plug too. If I remember right, the anode plug on the Suburban is an odd 1-1/16" size. I had to go to the auto parts store and buy a socket to fit.

The purpose of the anode is to slow down corrosion of the wh tank. It's just like your home wh which also has an anode, which most people don't know about either and never change. All my three previous rigs had Atwood heaters which didn't have anodes...just the plastic plug you had on your pup.
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