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Old 10-15-2010, 10:48 AM   #1
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Help draining hot water tank

I need some help with draining my hot water tank. I took the node plug out and drained the water from that. is that all I need to do to drain the tank so it does not freeze?

thank you
Jay
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Old 10-15-2010, 10:56 AM   #2
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I would also force some water into the tank to clean it out. You will be surprised how much stuff comes out.

Let the tank drain and just put the plug back in, all you need to do.
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:06 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by trailraider View Post
I need some help with draining my hot water tank. I took the node plug out and drained the water from that. is that all I need to do to drain the tank so it does not freeze?

thank you
Jay
Some people make an adapter for their compressor and blow air into the heater forcing all the crud out. I was very suprised how much crud was in the heater in our new trailer. Our old one did not have an anode rod just the plug and it always drained clean but this one WOW. But as to the last part yes that is all you have to do. Even if there is a bit of water left in the heater it won't hurt anything as there is lots of room for it to expand once the tank is drained.
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Old 10-16-2010, 06:41 AM   #4
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But as to the last part yes that is all you have to do.
One more thing that you have to do is replace the anode or put a plug of some sort in the anode hole to prevent critters from camping out. You don't need a dead mouse or a wasp nest in your heater.
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Old 10-20-2010, 03:05 PM   #5
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Also, it drains a lot quicker if you open the relief valve. Of course, it comes out all over your feet if you're standing there holding the little toggle on the relief valve! I've heard that the threads in the anode rod hole will rust up if you don't put the rod back in or install a blanking plug.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:25 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by trailraider View Post
I need some help with draining my hot water tank. I took the node plug out and drained the water from that. is that all I need to do to drain the tank so it does not freeze?

thank you
Jay
The way i do it is first make sure the water heater is off, locate the breaker in the electric panel and shut it down, then open your low point drains, then open all of your faucets, bathroom sink, shower, kitchen sink and don't forget the out side shower if you have one, then i go to the water heater on the out side and then I remove the anode rod at this point the water will rush out of the water heater, then i open the relief valve, now if you push the relief lever all the way up as far as it will go it will lock in place and stay open. Once the water has stopped flowing you can stop at this point but i do one more thing i use a hose with a spray nozzel and flush out the water heater.
I do not reinstall the anode rode, i install a rubber plug in it's place and in this rubber plug it has a small hole in the middle of it so air can help dry it out over the Winter. During the Winter i leave all of the faucets and low point drains open. One other thing to do and remember, if you have a water filter on your unit you should open the cylinder and remove the filter and the access water if not it will freeze, once the cylinder has been remove and the filter and water is empty re install the cylinder only.
After i do all of the above then i hook up an air hose and blow out the lines and then I am done.
The last two things I do to complete the water system is to pour RV anti-freeze in all of the sink drains to fill the traps and then i prop the flush valve open to the toilet but not all the way to where the flap is open, the reason for this is because if there is water in the the discharge line to the toilet and the valve is closed it will freeze and crack the flush valve. I use a piece of PVC pipe and prop it against the cabinet on one end and against the flush handle to hold it open at the other end.
Everything that is mentioned above that is open stays that way until Spring.
Other members may do some thing different but this works for me.....You may notice that i did not say anything about pumping anti-freeze in the water line and that's because i don't like using it but that's just me..Good luck.
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:02 PM   #7
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I love the step-by-step instructions--thanks!

This is the first year that I blew my lines out. I didn't feel comfortable just leaving it at that so I ran RV anti-freeze throughout (water heater bypassed) and then blew the lines out again. I also use a hose with a spray nozzel and flush out the water heater--I figure I got about 1/2 - 3/4 cup of additional water out by doing that.

All for peace of mind during the winter!
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:06 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by MikeInColo View Post

This is the first year that I blew my lines out. I didn't feel comfortable just leaving it at that so I ran RV anti-freeze throughout (water heater bypassed) and then blew the lines out again. I also use a hose with a spray nozzel and flush out the water heater--I figure I got about 1/2 - 3/4 cup of additional water out by doing that.
That is the way I winterize my rig. I got 1 of these to flush the water heater:

Camco Mfg Inc - Water Heater Tank Rinser - Water Heaters - Camping World
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:35 PM   #9
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My only worry about the advice here concerns opening the relief valve to let the water out "faster"

IMO the risk of not having that valve re-seat or getting minerals in the seat area (allowing it to leak) far out weighs any gain by cutting a few seconds off the drain.

One of the more expensive home repairs I had was from my oil fired furnace when I took some one's advice about checking the relief valve for operation (since it was about 10 years old and never checked). The darn thing opened just like it should but leaked like a sieve when I let go.
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:40 PM   #10
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About thge relief valve. It says ion the owners manual that it is supposed to leak a little ...but how much is a little. I find it leaks so much that the compartment under the heater accumulates water. Should I replace it?
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