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01-05-2018, 01:13 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 26
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No
I do not hear the pump running.
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01-05-2018, 01:17 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsivley
No
I do not hear the pump running.
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that's why you need to disconnect the trailer side of the pump. If it runs the pipe is frozen in the trailer. If it doesn't run, the pump is frozen or the fuse is blown.
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01-05-2018, 01:20 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 71
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dml
Are you sure it isn't in the hose from the outlet. That is more likely than inside the rv.
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01-05-2018, 01:32 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 477
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Another place to look for ice:
I just winterized my Georgetown 31L5. I've been on the road since mid December. I was in Arkansas and now Colorado, plus states in-between.
Everything worked fine. No water issues.
However, when I re-winterized for storage I found ice. When I removed the housing for the water filter, a "plug" of ice fell out of the top of the water filter. It hadn't caused me any problems and there was no ice in the housing around the filter. I still had water. However, another night of near zero temperatures might have caused that plug to become solid.
Moral of this story is to remove your water filter and check for ice (be sure to turn off city water first).
Good luck with your de-icing.
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01-05-2018, 01:33 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 26
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Thanks for all the help
Now I just need to read up on where the pump is and how to access it.
Thanks again.
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01-05-2018, 01:38 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Wherever my heart takes me.
Posts: 274
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I did not read every response. However I camp full time in the winter. It was 18 below zero this morning in Wisconsin.
I have an outside access door to the water heater. That is the weak point in my system. So when on shore power [Not using propane-DO NOT DO THIS IF USING PROPANE!
I place foiled insulation inside that access panel from the outside. The water feed line is so close to the outside at -6 degrees F it will freeze a 2 inch portion of line. That is to small to use heat tape.
My solution was to open the cabinet door (inside) under the sink and place a forced air electric heater. . I have not had a problem since.
Hopefully this helps. If not I gave it my best.
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01-05-2018, 02:00 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 26
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Thanks
I think you are correct ant the water heater area is the issue. I now have cold water at the kitchen sink with normal flow. No hot water and no water yet in toilet , shower or bathroom but maybe it’s thawing.
Thanks again
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01-05-2018, 02:12 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,905
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Hopefully, putting water in the fresh water tank doesn't compound your problem. Drain that as soon as possible.
There has been some pretty good pointers posted by others. The good news here is that the plumbing lines are PEX and can stand up fairly well to freezing. But, the plastic fittings not so much. PEX is also a fairly a fairly good insulation material and ice is slow to thaw. What I would suggest among the other suggestions is to apply more heat to the most suspect pipes, say using a heat gun or DW's hair drier and moving the heat along the length of the pipe. Thawing takes a long time, because it first becomes slush. Just thing how long an ice cube takes to melt in the sink with normal heat. But as the melted water heats up, it starts to thaw the water in the pipe up and down stream of the heat source. That takes longer. Wishing you the best.
Years ago, we lived in our RV while building a home in northern Illinois. The kids were in school then and took it as an adventure. We incorporated a garage in the house plan large enough to accommodate the motor home. When it went below freezing we were able to get it inside to prevent a freeze up. The garage wasn't dry walled yet so there was ventilation. It was like living in a comfortable cave. We got through it with a lot of memories.
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01-05-2018, 02:17 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 26
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I have two low water drains. One blue and one red. Will one of them drain my tank, I have always been hooked directly to city water and never used the tank so I am not sure how to drain it. Sorry for all the questions but I am somewhat new to all this.
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01-05-2018, 02:24 PM
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#30
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,266
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The low point drains drain the water system ( blue is cold, Red is hot) there is a separate drain for the FW tank under the TT in the area of the FW tank. The city water comes in the fitting on the side of the TT and runs down the side to the floor then to the cold water line. It is possible that the line from the city water in down to the cold water lines is frozen since it is just inside the wall and may not receive much heat from the inside. Not sure how you would correct this.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
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01-05-2018, 02:26 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsivley
I have two low water drains. One blue and one red. Will one of them drain my tank, I have always been hooked directly to city water and never used the tank so I am not sure how to drain it. Sorry for all the questions but I am somewhat new to all this.
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Those are LOW POINT Drains. They drain your water lines. Your water tank will have a drain like them near the tank. Your pump will be near the city water inlet in a storage area.
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01-05-2018, 02:30 PM
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#32
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsivley
I have two low water drains. One blue and one red. Will one of them drain my tank, I have always been hooked directly to city water and never used the tank so I am not sure how to drain it. Sorry for all the questions but I am somewhat new to all this.
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If you are asking if one of these lines will drain your fresh tank... no it won't.
You should have a separate drain for it somewhere.
__________________
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01-05-2018, 02:59 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: WASHINGTON, ILLINOIS
Posts: 288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
Not quite correct.
While city/campground water can backflow through the pump head (if the check valve sticks) it is not designed to normally flow through the pump head.
While the fresh water system and the city/campground water system connection share some plumbing, they are separate feeds isolated by the check valve in the water pump.
Here is a 'simple' diagram of a typical plumbing system.
Pay attention to the flow arrows. (especially at the pump area)
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Great drawing Thanks
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01-05-2018, 03:38 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Wherever my heart takes me.
Posts: 274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNMIB
Great drawing Thanks
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So the image creates a curiosity question for me.
When I am on city water it has nothing to do with the fresh water tank which has been empty since Oct 11th.
I leave the low point drains open and have never needed to add anti freeze.
So on "normal rigs" when you are on city water does it fill a tank as it does not in mine.
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01-05-2018, 03:44 PM
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#35
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,266
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When on city water, the water tank does not fill under normal conditions as there is a back flow prevention valve in the pump that keeps water out of the water tank. It is not shown in that diagram. Occasionally that valve will not seat properly ( especially of the water pump is used when connected to city water) and water will enter the fresh water tank.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
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01-05-2018, 03:55 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyShope
So the image creates a curiosity question for me.
When I am on city water it has nothing to do with the fresh water tank which has been empty since Oct 11th.
I leave the low point drains open and have never needed to add anti freeze.
So on "normal rigs" when you are on city water does it fill a tank as it does not in mine.
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No, Tony, the diagram is oversimplified. There is a back flow valve preventing the freshwater tank filling when on city water and the water pump does not function. The diagram also does not show the low-point drains. For some reason, the city water low-point drains are fairly centralized, the fresh water tank drain is always kept a mystery.
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01-05-2018, 03:58 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyShope
So the image creates a curiosity question for me.
When I am on city water it has nothing to do with the fresh water tank which has been empty since Oct 11th.
I leave the low point drains open and have never needed to add anti freeze.
So on "normal rigs" when you are on city water does it fill a tank as it does not in mine.
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Not all RV's are the same. My tank fill is separate from the pump system. My city water does not fill the tank. The tank is not pressurized. Your low point drains must be closed or they would be running water when you're hooked to city water. They are part of your piping system. They are called low point drains for a reason. You don't need to use antifreeze if your not in a freeze zone. Your drains would be open if you blow out with air instead of using antifreeze but they must be closed to use any water.
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01-05-2018, 04:18 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Wherever my heart takes me.
Posts: 274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie
Not all RV's are the same. My tank fill is separate from the pump system. My city water does not fill the tank. The tank is not pressurized. Your low point drains must be closed or they would be running water when you're hooked to city water. They are part of your piping system. They are called low point drains for a reason. You don't need to use antifreeze if your not in a freeze zone. Your drains would be open if you blow out with air instead of using antifreeze but they must be closed to use any water.
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Thank you all for the replies. I am learned some things. I live at Ft McCoy Wisconsin and very cold. So maybe I have a 2nd set of drains that are not exposed beneath the unit. As my unit. (Ice fishing house made for extreme cold, but not perfect by a long shot)
Only has to drains and they are in front of the water pump. So when off the grid I have to close them to have fresh water tank fill.
They remain wide open while I am connected to city water as in today where it was 18 below zero.
Now you created another question as the water heater drain (pressure relief is as low) So maybe my low point might actually be the annode (not sure of spelling) main water heater drain 6 or so inch plug. Because on city water I am doing fine after finding the weak point by the external water heater door.
Thanks for the answers & insight.
I wish the manuals contained more info as I read them all and then say but what if?
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01-05-2018, 04:20 PM
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#39
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 26
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I questioned that myself. My tank has never had water until today. When I am in city water it bypasses the tank.
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01-05-2018, 05:29 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyShope
Thank you all for the replies. I am learned some things. I live at Ft McCoy Wisconsin and very cold. So maybe I have a 2nd set of drains that are not exposed beneath the unit. As my unit. (Ice fishing house made for extreme cold, but not perfect by a long shot)
Only has to drains and they are in front of the water pump. So when off the grid I have to close them to have fresh water tank fill.
They remain wide open while I am connected to city water as in today where it was 18 below zero.
Now you created another question as the water heater drain (pressure relief is as low) So maybe my low point might actually be the annode (not sure of spelling) main water heater drain 6 or so inch plug. Because on city water I am doing fine after finding the weak point by the external water heater door.
Thanks for the answers & insight.
I wish the manuals contained more info as I read them all and then say but what if?
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The low point drain for the hot water heater actually is the anode rod. You can open the pressure relief valve to help it drain. You should have a hot water heater bypass valve on the opposite side of the how water heater. That would be facing the interior. After draining the HWH, I generally use a 3/4" pipe plug to put in place of the anode rod. It is best to use a brass pipe plug or plastic. Iron will rust. The plug just keeps the crawlies out. We replace the anode rod yearly, though you can get a couple of years out of one.
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