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Old 04-12-2016, 03:08 PM   #31
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If I'm right (and I'm pretty sure I am) closing the hot valve will just prevent the system from being able to replenish the hot water tank. Since the toilet will be drawing from the cold (blue) inlet, which'll be on bottom of the tank, gravity acting on the water in the tank will supply some pressure and he'll probably still be getting water at the toilet for a couple of flushes. That'll last until the tank empties enough that gravity can't provide enough to get it to the toilet, which'll depend on where the toilet is located in relation to the tank.

So no, just closing the valve won't immediately show results.


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Well, that's the whole point. If the toilet doesn't have pressure it is plumbed wrong. Just hold the flusher down and see if the water stops. If it continues, iregardless of temp, then it is plumed correctly.
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Old 04-12-2016, 03:23 PM   #32
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Well, that's the whole point. If the toilet doesn't have pressure it is plumbed wrong. Just hold the flusher down and see if the water stops. If it continues, iregardless of temp, then it is plumed correctly.
I agree, closing the hot valve will shut off the hot water to all faucets completely regardless of pressure in the water heater tank. Better to try that than just speculate on how it's plumbed like is being done now.
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Old 04-12-2016, 03:37 PM   #33
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I agree, closing the hot valve will shut off the hot water to all faucets completely regardless of pressure in the water heater tank. Better to try that than just speculate on how it's plumbed like is being done now.

Pretty sure this was suggested about 30 posts ago, and I agree!


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Old 04-12-2016, 04:24 PM   #34
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Well, I believe it can be solved just with a visual confirmation and a little bit of plumbing know-how, but a test probably won't hurt.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you do this test, and your tank has an electric element, make sure to turn it off before you test. If you end up draining the tank via the cold lines like I suspect it will it can kill your element.



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Old 04-12-2016, 08:42 PM   #35
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Well as you can see in these pics the city water line ties directly into the hot water lines and I'm assuming that's not good??
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:50 PM   #36
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Yep, not good.


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Old 04-12-2016, 09:40 PM   #37
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As they say... WELL THERE'S YOUR PROBLEM!!!

Guy at FR must have been color blind!!!
Did you buy the 2nd year warranty if you are out of the 1 year? Otherwise you gonna be on the "hot seat"!!

The reality is this is probably the BEST case scenario. Since it is wrong right at the start, a bit of re-plumbing will get you straight.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:46 PM   #38
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Well as you can see in these pics the city water line ties directly into the hot water lines and I'm assuming that's not good??
If in fact that tee is the pump and shore water junction then switching the input at the water heater will make all outputs correct, only cold will be red and hot will be blue. Yes, you will have to switch those faucets back the way they were. Doesn't look difficult. Of course photo does not show access availability. Maybe your dealer should tackle this.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:20 PM   #39
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That is what we plumbers call an "Ah Ha" moment.
I would fix it correctly, by teeing it into the cold where it should have been in the first place, but that's just me.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:29 PM   #40
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Agree with Dwilcox, all fittings are available at the Depot or Lowes. Sharkbites, some Pex and a cap, done.
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