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04-11-2016, 10:14 PM
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#21
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles
...One way to tell might be to close the red tube valve in the photo at the water heater and see if the toilet still has water flow after all pressure has been released. If the toilet has good water flow it is plumbed correctly.
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Agree 100%, just turn off the valve on the hot water and see if you still have water to the toilet.
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04-11-2016, 10:19 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 723
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Yes, the more i look at it the more it looks like the white tee with the vinyl hose on the top is the city water in, you can see the fresh tank fill next to it. I bet the connection on the right goes to the pump as I can see the suction side of the pump but not the pressure side and I think it attaches to the right side of the tee and I can see the left side of that tee, tees into the red (hot) main and will force the hot out of the cold piping from the tank.
If i am correct the easy fix is to add a tee to the blue riser to your faucet that is above (Kitchen?) and cap the side of the tee in the hot where it is attached now.
Let us know.
__________________
Dale & Karen
2015 Lacrosse 311RLS
2006 F-250 The 06-6.0
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04-12-2016, 11:32 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doc73
That looks right.. Check the outside shower idea from above. That seems to get a bunch of folks.. But my guess it might just be the way it is somewhere near the camode if you are getting that much heat to notice it.
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I had to pull drawer from vanity that is where stool gets its water supply from supply line to o/s shower it may be hooked up to the wrong line.
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04-12-2016, 11:55 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 8
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Thanks for all the suggestions, to summarize: The Outside shower is off and always has been, from day one hot water has come from all the spigots marked cold, from all the pics I've looked at the valves are in the correct position and the Hot and Cold lines going into the heater tank are correct. I am hooked up to a city water supply line and always have been, the fresh water tank has never been used. In my opinion it was plumbed wrong from the factory. When we were only using on weekends it wasn't a big problem but I am living in it full time now and it's a problem. Anyone got an easy fix??
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04-12-2016, 01:09 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukmark
Thanks for all the suggestions, to summarize: The Outside shower is off and always has been, from day one hot water has come from all the spigots marked cold, from all the pics I've looked at the valves are in the correct position and the Hot and Cold lines going into the heater tank are correct. I am hooked up to a city water supply line and always have been, the fresh water tank has never been used. In my opinion it was plumbed wrong from the factory. When we were only using on weekends it wasn't a big problem but I am living in it full time now and it's a problem. Anyone got an easy fix??
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Is this the first time you have ever used the trailer? If not, did it work ok the first time you used it?. The valves all look ok, but they are not gang valves, they are screw type valves. If you turn them, all the way, to the right they are closed, to the left they are open. There is no way of knowing by your pictures, what is open and what is closed.
Have you actually checked the valves? Which is open and which ones are closed?
__________________
Bob and Deb
Diesel, the black lab
2015 F350 6.7 diesel 4x4
Crew Cab 8 ft. bed
Sanibel 38ft QB
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04-12-2016, 01:15 PM
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#26
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwilcox
Yes, the more i look at it the more it looks like the white tee with the vinyl hose on the top is the city water in, you can see the fresh tank fill next to it. I bet the connection on the right goes to the pump as I can see the suction side of the pump but not the pressure side and I think it attaches to the right side of the tee and I can see the left side of that tee, tees into the red (hot) main and will force the hot out of the cold piping from the tank.
If i am correct the easy fix is to add a tee to the blue riser to your faucet that is above (Kitchen?) and cap the side of the tee in the hot where it is attached now.
Let us know.
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After seeing the pictures on a bigger screen I agree with this. Not sure why they connected the city water inlet to a red pipe?
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04-12-2016, 01:37 PM
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#27
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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Based on your photos, I agree that it looks like your city water connection (the white line) is Tee'd into your red (hot) line instead of your blue (cold) line. This would reverse the pressure on your water tank, which will force the hot water out the cold inlet at the bottom instead. Basically, everything is plumbed right, valves are in the right positions, taps and toilet are all done right too, outside shower has no impact, the only thing wrong is that white Tee is on the wrong pipe (if I'm seeing it right.)
Can you confirm if the white Tee is on the red or the blue line? Just to be sure?
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There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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04-12-2016, 01:46 PM
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#28
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Until the OP closes the hot water valve, all is just speculation. IF, he turns the hot water valve to off and gets no water to the toilet it pretty well indicates an improper plumbing job from the factory and a pretty simple fix.
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04-12-2016, 01:59 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogbone
Is this the first time you have ever used the trailer? If not, did it work ok the first time you used it?. The valves all look ok, but they are not gang valves, they are screw type valves. If you turn them, all the way, to the right they are closed, to the left they are open. There is no way of knowing by your pictures, what is open and what is closed.
Have you actually checked the valves? Which is open and which ones are closed?
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I've been using the trailer for over a year mostly just weekends during summer. It has always been the same, the valves are in the correct positions bas d on every diagram I have seen.
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04-12-2016, 02:02 PM
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#30
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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If I'm right (and I'm pretty sure I am) closing the hot valve will just prevent the system from being able to replenish the hot water tank. Since the toilet will be drawing from the cold (blue) inlet, which'll be on bottom of the tank, gravity acting on the water in the tank will supply some pressure and he'll probably still be getting water at the toilet for a couple of flushes. That'll last until the tank empties enough that gravity can't provide enough to get it to the toilet, which'll depend on where the toilet is located in relation to the tank.
So no, just closing the valve won't immediately show results.
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There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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04-12-2016, 02:08 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaadk
If I'm right (and I'm pretty sure I am) closing the hot valve will just prevent the system from being able to replenish the hot water tank. Since the toilet will be drawing from the cold (blue) inlet, which'll be on bottom of the tank, gravity acting on the water in the tank will supply some pressure and he'll probably still be getting water at the toilet for a couple of flushes. That'll last until the tank empties enough that gravity can't provide enough to get it to the toilet, which'll depend on where the toilet is located in relation to the tank.
So no, just closing the valve won't immediately show results.
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Well, that's the whole point. If the toilet doesn't have pressure it is plumbed wrong. Just hold the flusher down and see if the water stops. If it continues, iregardless of temp, then it is plumed correctly.
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04-12-2016, 02:23 PM
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#32
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles
Well, that's the whole point. If the toilet doesn't have pressure it is plumbed wrong. Just hold the flusher down and see if the water stops. If it continues, iregardless of temp, then it is plumed correctly.
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I agree, closing the hot valve will shut off the hot water to all faucets completely regardless of pressure in the water heater tank. Better to try that than just speculate on how it's plumbed like is being done now.
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04-12-2016, 02:37 PM
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#33
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tipp City, OH
Posts: 7,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
I agree, closing the hot valve will shut off the hot water to all faucets completely regardless of pressure in the water heater tank. Better to try that than just speculate on how it's plumbed like is being done now.
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Pretty sure this was suggested about 30 posts ago, and I agree!
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2016 Georgetown 364TS
2017 Jeep Rubicon Recon toad
Nights Camped 2019 - 17
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04-12-2016, 03:24 PM
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#34
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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Well, I believe it can be solved just with a visual confirmation and a little bit of plumbing know-how, but a test probably won't hurt.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you do this test, and your tank has an electric element, make sure to turn it off before you test. If you end up draining the tank via the cold lines like I suspect it will it can kill your element.
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__________________
There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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04-12-2016, 07:42 PM
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#35
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 8
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Well as you can see in these pics the city water line ties directly into the hot water lines and I'm assuming that's not good??
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04-12-2016, 07:50 PM
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#36
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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Yep, not good.
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__________________
There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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04-12-2016, 08:40 PM
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#37
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Who Dares, Wins
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chester County, PA
Posts: 7,063
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As they say... WELL THERE'S YOUR PROBLEM!!!
Guy at FR must have been color blind!!!
Did you buy the 2nd year warranty if you are out of the 1 year? Otherwise you gonna be on the "hot seat"!!
The reality is this is probably the BEST case scenario. Since it is wrong right at the start, a bit of re-plumbing will get you straight.
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Pat, Jen, Heather & Sapphire, the head mouser.
2015 Chevy HD D-Max
2022 Impression 315MB
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04-12-2016, 08:46 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukmark
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If in fact that tee is the pump and shore water junction then switching the input at the water heater will make all outputs correct, only cold will be red and hot will be blue. Yes, you will have to switch those faucets back the way they were. Doesn't look difficult. Of course photo does not show access availability. Maybe your dealer should tackle this.
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04-12-2016, 09:20 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 723
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That is what we plumbers call an "Ah Ha" moment.
I would fix it correctly, by teeing it into the cold where it should have been in the first place, but that's just me.
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Dale & Karen
2015 Lacrosse 311RLS
2006 F-250 The 06-6.0
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04-12-2016, 09:29 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: East Berlin
Posts: 734
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Agree with Dwilcox, all fittings are available at the Depot or Lowes. Sharkbites, some Pex and a cap, done.
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