hot water delivery issue

[txmike]

Hi, we have a new Catalina SBX 291QBS. we went for our first trip this past weekend and had an issue getting hot water to the sink/shower etc. The system has the electric/gas water heater so we thought maybe that was an issue. we flipped the electric switch off, let set for half a day and then turned on the gas system switch. it ignited and had flame to heat the water. when you turn on the hot water faucet hot water came after a sec or so and then it disappeared followed by slightly more than room temp water.
we could not get consistent HOT water to any outlet in the camper. after reading around here it sounds like their could be a bypass valve open letting the delivery line siphon in cold water to create just warm water.

is this possible? any ideas on trouble shooting or should i just take it back to the dealer and tell them to fix it. ( i hate spending time to get there and back and wait for something if its a minor fix)

Thanks,
Mike

[Herk7769]

This can be caused by 3 things; all easily checked and fixed.

1) The bypass valve in your winterization set up is set to "bypass". That valve MUST be closed to get reliable hot water.

2) The faucets are open and the handset shutoff is closed in either (or both!) the inside shower or the outside showers.

All of these allow cold water to enter the hot water pipes when a hot water tap is opened.

[Scheinin]

It sounds like you are getting hot water, but it turns to cold. I had that problem and discovered that it was my water filter. I was using a Camico CX90 Taste Pure Water Filter that reduced the flow of water so much that not enough went through the hot water heater (I have an instant heater). When I removed the filter, problem solved. I am now looking for a recommendation for a whole house filter.

[Flybob]

Probably one or conditions listed in post#2. They cover 99% of issues like yours.

[Teamfour]

I vote for the bypass valve being in the wrong configuration. We did the same thing and it took me half a day to figure out the solution.

[5picker]

Assuming this is NOT an on demand (instant) water heater that was mentioned in post # 3, the only other SLIM possibility that hasn't been mentioned is that you actually don't have enough hot water in your tank.

This could be caused by a faulty thermostat on the 110v electric side or something wrong on the propane side that would only allow the LP burner to operate a very short time and possibly then go in to lock-out.

The only way to verify hot water in the tank is to open the pop-off valve on the side of the tank and let run a minute or so to see if the water remains hot.

BE VERY CAREFUL doing this!!!!!! The water can be SCALDING hot coming directly out of the pop-off!!!!!!

[bob caldwell]

Originally Posted by Scheinin

It sounds like you are getting hot water, but it turns to cold. I had that problem and discovered that it was my water filter. I was using a Camico CX90 Taste Pure Water Filter that reduced the flow of water so much that not enough went through the hot water heater (I have an instant heater). When I removed the filter, problem solved. I am now looking for a recommendation for a whole house filter.

Got mine at Home Depot, and a few extra filters.......my water fill is on back of trailer above bumper, so used a quick disconnect and a 1" spacer block.....

[txmike]

thanks for the replies. it happens when on city water as well as with water from tank and pump running. i will dig into the bypass valve (hopefully can find it)

[bob caldwell]

Should be real close to water heater. .maybe behind removable panel

[BobHanke]

Agree with Herk7769. After you are sure the heater tank is full, retest the electric element. It would have fried in moments if tank was being bypassed.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by Scheinin

It sounds like you are getting hot water, but it turns to cold. I had that problem and discovered that it was my water filter. I was using a Camico CX90 Taste Pure Water Filter that reduced the flow of water so much that not enough went through the hot water heater (I have an instant heater). When I removed the filter, problem solved. I am now looking for a recommendation for a whole house filter.

We have a whole house water filter at our residence. It initially came with the white filters as in the RV. We have found that switching to carbon filters gives good flow and good tasting water. Carbon filters are gray and are more expensive, but worth it. We buy them at the local home improvement stores in the area of the water softeners displays. The canister wrenches are in the same department. Home whole house filter cartridges interchange with the RV whole house water filter canisters. I believe the package directions indicate you should run water through a new cartridge for a few minutes.

[PenJoe]

You may also want to check your low point drain. It would be on the red pipe either capped under the RV or on a valve in the area of water pump. It may not be the cause, but just throwing out another thought.

[PenJoe]

Locating the bypass valve can be a real pain. We bought new last June. It didn't have a winterizing valve, so I assumed it wouldn't have a hot water bypass. As Bob Caldwell notes, it is opposite your water heater vent. Ours was under the kitchen sink and under the cabinet floor. When opening the cupboard door, there was a little square panel that was permanently fastened to the cabinet frame. Carefully, I was able to remove the panel. Sure enough, there was the water heater and it did have bypass valves. It was astonishing that this would behind a permanently affixed panel. It has to be accessed every time you winterize and de-winterize. I have modified it to make the panel easier to remove.

[W5CI]

If you turned on the Elect element without water it fried quickly, I fried my element because I forgot to switch the HW bypass valve

[Johntgif]

Sounds like possibly poor PDI information

[bob caldwell]

Just so much to learn, it becomes overwhelming.......till one gets it home and can go over stuff in their own time frame....

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

Locating the bypass valve can be a real pain. We bought new last June. It didn't have a winterizing valve, so I assumed it wouldn't have a hot water bypass. As Bob Caldwell notes, it is opposite your water heater vent. Ours was under the kitchen sink and under the cabinet floor. When opening the cupboard door, there was a little square panel that was permanently fastened to the cabinet frame. Carefully, I was able to remove the panel. Sure enough, there was the water heater and it did have bypass valves. It was astonishing that this would behind a permanently affixed panel. It has to be accessed every time you winterize and de-winterize. I have modified it to make the panel easier to remove.

My Tech removed this panel during PDI when I took delivery of the camper. It opened up lots more space under the sink.

[txmike]

i saw the panel and valves behind it. we were informed they were for winterizing and in the gulf coast of texas that is almost comical. it hit 30 degree this winter for about 4hr one night... so i didnt pay them much attention. i turned on the hot water and hot water came out so i shut it off.

thanks for the info and will dig in further

[rekwiat]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

This can be caused by 3 things; all easily checked and fixed.



1) The bypass valve in your winterization set up is set to "bypass". That valve MUST be closed to get reliable hot water.



2) The faucets are open and the handset shutoff is closed in either (or both!) the inside shower or the outside showers.



All of these allow cold water to enter the hot water pipes when a hot water tap is opened.

So if all valves are parallel with respect to the pipe I would be getting cold mixed with hot, correct?

[5picker]

Yes, if ALL valves are parallel to the pipes (open) you would get cold mixed with hot.