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Old 02-18-2015, 10:07 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by campr-pete View Post
If you have kids be very careful changing the temperature to 140degrees. At this temp it could scald them. I"ve owned many rv's and 6 gal hot water heaters have always been sufficient even when we had 3-5 grand kids along. 120 degrees is a good temp, play it safe you most likely have other issues as some of the replies have pointed out, could be a leaky by pass valve or a thermostat issue.

No kids just a couple of doggies
But yea, if i do end up changing out the thermostat i will for sure be careful
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Old 02-18-2015, 10:08 PM   #52
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More Hot water please

My five gallon tank is functioning perfectly but I hate Navy showers. I'm going to sacrifice one wardrobe in my mini lite 2034 and put in a 20 gallon tank. I agree that hauling 20 gallons of water down the road won't do much for the old gas mileage but I plan to drain the tank before pulling up stakes. I just love long hot showers in my own space. After all I've already paid the utility bill. Here's hoping it's a simple job
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:24 PM   #53
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Keep us posted on the results, I'm curious as to what is going on here.
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:38 AM   #54
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Before this goes way down the off-topic road and quits helping the OP with their problem........page 17 of this Suburban water heater service manual explains the function of the Pressure relief valve and also the benefit of an air pocket (that has to be replenished manually if needed).

There may also be more help for the OP in the troubleshooting charts past that point:

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/subsw.pdf
Bingo. I was going to look for that myself, I knew I read it at one point. Thanks.
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:41 AM   #55
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My five gallon tank is functioning perfectly but I hate Navy showers. I'm going to sacrifice one wardrobe in my mini lite 2034 and put in a 20 gallon tank. I agree that hauling 20 gallons of water down the road won't do much for the old gas mileage but I plan to drain the tank before pulling up stakes. I just love long hot showers in my own space. After all I've already paid the utility bill. Here's hoping it's a simple job
You may want to consider just adding a 10 gallon WH in series with the existing WH (or upgrading the 6 to a 10 and then adding another 10). That will give you a lot more flexibility and may mean you don't have to give up the wardrobe since the 2nd WH can be placed in a different area.

The water weight won't affect your mpg at all, air resistance on TT is king. No need to drain your tank(s). Case in point, my prior TV was a Sienna. Pulling my popup it got 16 mpg, pulling my R-pod it got 12 mpg. The popup weighed close to 3500 pounds loaded, the R-pod was 3000. 500 pounds more on the popup but much better mpg.
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:55 AM   #56
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I opened the blow off valve to check if there was air.
No air was present in the tank
I then turned on the water heater and let it get hot (till the burner turned off)
Turned the water pump on and proceeded to fill the 5 gal bucket again, water cooled and i checked time at 2min 4 sec. And the bucket measured at 7.5"
So not much difference between city and pump water
Still only about 2.5 gallons of hot water
Off to the dealer and then go from there
Thanks guys for all the responses
I really appreciate it


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I'm still placing my $2.73 wager on unexpected cold water mixing with the hot somewhere (in tank or throughoutdoor shower). My case? If the first water out of the heater is hot, I'd say all thermostats/hi-limits/valves/etc. are working. If the water goes from hot to cold that quickly, I'd say cold water is entering the mix. Now if the first water out of the heater is not really hot, I'll switch my wager to the heater's ability to heat.

That is all. I'm off to the Dallas RV SuperSale!
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:56 PM   #57
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bigger hot water tank

I'm designing a circuit for a new 20 gallon hot water tank to add on to the current 5 gallon system. Can someone tell me if the voltage in the standard 40 amp circuits are 110 or 220? And secondly I note that there are several options when plugging in. There are a couple of standard 110 vertical plug ins and one 40 amp large plug in. Can you plug in and run several circuits simultaineously or will this trip the breaker?
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:58 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by techntrek View Post
You may want to consider just adding a 10 gallon WH in series with the existing WH (or upgrading the 6 to a 10 and then adding another 10). That will give you a lot more flexibility and may mean you don't have to give up the wardrobe since the 2nd WH can be placed in a different area.

The water weight won't affect your mpg at all, air resistance on TT is king. No need to drain your tank(s). Case in point, my prior TV was a Sienna. Pulling my popup it got 16 mpg, pulling my R-pod it got 12 mpg. The popup weighed close to 3500 pounds loaded, the R-pod was 3000. 500 pounds more on the popup but much better mpg.
Great information! Thanks
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Old 02-23-2015, 03:40 PM   #59
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I'm designing a circuit for a new 20 gallon hot water tank to add on to the current 5 gallon system. Can someone tell me if the voltage in the standard 40 amp circuits are 110 or 220? And secondly I note that there are several options when plugging in. There are a couple of standard 110 vertical plug ins and one 40 amp large plug in. Can you plug in and run several circuits simultaineously or will this trip the breaker?
RV hookups at the power pedestal are either 20 amp 120 volts, 30 amp 120 volts, or 50 amp 120/240 volts split-phase (two 50 amp 120 volt circuits 180 degrees out of phase). If you are adding an additional electric heater your best bet is to make it a 120 volt version.
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:32 PM   #60
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Thanks
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