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06-09-2017, 12:58 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 7
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Hot water heater
Don't know if this is in the right place but I'll ask anyway! I replaced the heating element while on a trip. Size coming out was 1440. Forest river tech told me to get a 1500. Couldn't find one where i was at so I put a 1440 back in. Every since then the reset button keeps tripping. Today I found a 1500 so before I get started, I wanted to see if I'm doing something wrong! Can I get the wiring backwards on the post????? Runs fine on gas.
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06-09-2017, 02:45 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 664
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Are you sure the one you installed is rated for 115 vac? They make replacement elements both in 115 and 220 vac ratings.
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Joe
2015 Wildwood 27RKSS (now sold)
2015 Silverado 2500HD Duramax 
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06-09-2017, 02:59 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My happy place
Don't know if this is in the right place but I'll ask anyway! I replaced the heating element while on a trip. Size coming out was 1440. Forest river tech told me to get a 1500. Couldn't find one where i was at so I put a 1440 back in. Every since then the reset button keeps tripping. Today I found a 1500 so before I get started, I wanted to see if I'm doing something wrong! Can I get the wiring backwards on the post????? Runs fine on gas.
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I am going to assume you have a Suburban water heater. When you say the reset keeps tripping, are you referring to the button underneath the rubber cover?
If so, is it the left or right one that trips...or both.
These are only supposed to trip when your tank wall temp reaches an unsafe 180 degrees. Are you sure you have water in the tank?
Please let us know and we can walk thru the troubleshooting tips.
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 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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06-09-2017, 03:06 PM
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#4
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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A 220 rated element will only put out 1/2 the wattage at 110, so that should not be the problem.
Corrosion might be a possibility or a bad bellows; replacement is the fix.
https://accessories.lazydays.com/sub...TaABoCjgXw_wcB
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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06-09-2017, 03:11 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,924
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See if this video may help, as he explains at the first how to make sure you have water in the tank, and the customers hi-limit resets were tripping because they didn't actually have water in the tank.
If this is also your case, you may have burned out your new replacement element....but let's see before we jump to that conclusion.
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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06-09-2017, 05:20 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
I am going to assume you have a Suburban water heater. When you say the reset keeps tripping, are you referring to the button underneath the rubber cover?
If so, is it the left or right one that trips...or both.
These are only supposed to trip when your tank wall temp reaches an unsafe 180 degrees. Are you sure you have water in the tank?
Please let us know and we can walk thru the troubleshooting tips.
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Its the one on the left and the new one is 120v 1440w, the same as the one that came out
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06-09-2017, 05:24 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My happy place
Its the one on the left, element is 120v 1440w
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sorry, Im learning how to do this forum. If I don't get back to you, its because I don't know how! lol
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06-09-2017, 05:25 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadway Joe
Are you sure the one you installed is rated for 115 vac? They make replacement elements both in 115 and 220 vac ratings.
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not sure about a vac, but its 120v 1440w
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06-09-2017, 05:44 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
See if this video may help, as he explains at the first how to make sure you have water in the tank, and the customers hi-limit resets were tripping because they didn't actually have water in the tank.
If this is also your case, you may have burned out your new replacement element....but let's see before we jump to that conclusion.
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There's water in it. I replaced it 2 months ago and its just now starting to trip. I watched this video first.
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06-09-2017, 05:54 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadway Joe
Are you sure the one you installed is rated for 115 vac? They make replacement elements both in 115 and 220 vac ratings.
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Broadway Joe, the one that came out of it, is 120v, 1440w, I replaced it with the same except it was a little shorter than the one that came out of it
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06-09-2017, 06:04 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,924
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OK, thanks for the followup info, that helps a lot.
You may want to remove the cover over the resets for the eco hi-limit/thermostats.
The one on the left does indeed go to the electric element while the right one controls the 12 volt DC propane side.
If you will look at Herk's pic copied below, you will see that there is a fusible link burned out between the top ECO reset and the bottom thermostat (glance at the one on the right to the 12 volt DC and you will see it still in place). Sometimes when you burn out the electric element, this fusible link at the hi-limit eco/thermostat burns out too, or gives up the ghost shortly after.
As Herk also pointed out, you may just have a bad eco/thermostat now period.
They aren't expensive and easy to replace. If you can replace an element, this is a cake walk. Just make sure all power is off, then disconnect the two wire spade terminals, and unscrew the center nut holding it to the tank wall.
However there are two part numbers depending on which one you are replacing. The left one to the 120 volt AC electric element is Suburban part #232306
You can get these off Amazon, Camping World, and probably about any RV dealer.
https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-2323.../dp/B003G9I4DW
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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06-09-2017, 08:12 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 7
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Thanks wmtire, now I know what to look for before I take the element out. Just a poor girl trying to get some hot water.
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06-09-2017, 08:17 PM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My happy place
Thanks wmtire, now I know what to look for before I take the element out. Just a poor girl trying to get some hot water.
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I understand, but why not just use the propane side until you get home (if not currently) or can fix it at your own leisure. The hot water heater really does not use that much propane and many RV'ers never use the electric element anyway.
The electric and propane work totally independent of one another. Even if the electric is not working, the propane should do just fine. Propane also has the fastest recovery rate too.
To be honest, I probably use my electric heating element less than 50% of the times I camp.
BTW, I glanced at your profile and already like you. My two favorite women (my mom and my daughter who we named after my mom) share your same name.
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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