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Old 12-20-2015, 09:21 PM   #51
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Good job. Glad you solved it. Now enjoy the rest of your trip.
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:59 AM   #52
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Water heater

First of all the switch on the tank (suburban) is to control electric side only. If stuck replace it.The reset button is soft but doubt it would be the problem . The switch inside is for the gas and could have one for the electric.
Make sure you have power at the stuck switch.use a multi meter.it should be110 or 120 volt.if not check breaker for being tripped. Next if u have power check the element by taking offthecover which is located behind the gas muffler. Use the multimeter to check ohms by taking off the wires. U should have 10.5 or close.
If you do then the element is good. Then check the wiring to the element. With
The wires on the element put one probe (red) from your meter to the black side and the other to the tank for ground.if you read 120 volts good then check the other side (white) if you get 120volt then you have short in the wiring. Look
In the junction box on the back of the tank
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:09 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumby View Post
First of all the switch on the tank (suburban) is to control electric side only. If stuck replace it.The reset button is soft but doubt it would be the problem . The switch inside is for the gas and could have one for the electric.
Make sure you have power at the stuck switch.use a multi meter.it should be110 or 120 volt.if not check breaker for being tripped. Next if u have power check the element by taking offthecover which is located behind the gas muffler. Use the multimeter to check ohms by taking off the wires. U should have 10.5 or close.
If you do then the element is good. Then check the wiring to the element. With
The wires on the element put one probe (red) from your meter to the black side and the other to the tank for ground.if you read 120 volts good then check the other side (white) if you get 120volt then you have short in the wiring. Look
In the junction box on the back of the tank
Good info. Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:15 AM   #54
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On your inside WH switch, only stays lit until gas is working then goes out.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:21 AM   #55
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Thanks, Bumby.

I'll check everything via the volt meter when we get home (and the projected rain stops).

I have confirmed that the breaker didn't flip. I have not confirmed if the stuck switch has power.

This morning I was curious if my gas hw switch worked on the control panel. After we got cleaned up last night I shut down the gas to the hw heater as we slept.

Success! The switch lit up and seconds later I heard the gas light up. I think the switch is still faulty and will replace.




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Old 12-24-2015, 09:25 PM   #56
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If the electric switch is shot, I would suggest throwing the circuit breaker just for safety - if it doesn't disable anything else you need, but assuming/hoping it's on its own line. You will need to do that for the switch work anyway. Then don't forget to turn the darn thing back in after you fix the switch. Sorry for so much trouble and hope you are back up and running soon!
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Old 12-24-2015, 10:16 PM   #57
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Thanks, MNtraveler!

Some of the parts are starting to arrive since I ordered a few things Monday.

I received a new outdoor electric hw switch (and a spare) as well as an indoor illuminated hw gas switch (and a spare).

I also ordered a thermostat for the electric side just in case.

I flipped the hw breaker off as I thought I better be safe than sorry since the electric switch is stuck in the "on position" at the hw heater until I can replace the broken switch.

When we arrived home Tuesday, I went ahead and drained the hw heater in preparation for the upcoming work.

I'm actually fortunate that I was able to get the gas source hw heater to work.

This job seams easy enough, just hope it isn't a short that I won't recognize so that this stuff happens again.




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Old 12-24-2015, 11:11 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStick View Post
Thanks, MNtraveler!

Some of the parts are starting to arrive since I ordered a few things Monday.

I received a new outdoor electric hw switch (and a spare) as well as an indoor illuminated hw gas switch (and a spare).

I also ordered a thermostat for the electric side just in case.

I flipped the hw breaker off as I thought I better be safe than sorry since the electric switch is stuck in the "on position" at the hw heater until I can replace the broken switch.

When we arrived home Tuesday, I went ahead and drained the hw heater in preparation for the upcoming work.

I'm actually fortunate that I was able to get the gas source hw heater to work.

This job seams easy enough, just hope it isn't a short that I won't recognize so that this stuff happens again.




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Probably when the element failed it pulled excess current long enough to fry the switch. Doubt if you have more issues, you've had enough!


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Old 12-24-2015, 11:24 PM   #59
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That makes sense.

The element won't arrive until around the first week of January, but I'll probably tinker with the two switches first.

We are scheduled to camp mid-January so plenty of time to get the repairs in!




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Old 12-25-2015, 10:17 AM   #60
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Would suggest replacing the electric heating element and outside AC switch at the same time. Why risk frying the new switch if the old heating element took it out. Turn off 120V circuit breaker inside before any work. Might make that breaker and the outside switch a two step process in the future to remind yourself that the tank MUST be full of water before activating. (Gas heating side needs 12V for igniter).
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