Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-26-2012, 09:07 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hendersonville, TN
Posts: 73
Hot water heater only works w/ gas

Our hot water heater only works while in propane mode. We've given it ampleturns to heat up with electricity, but it never does. Even when we switch from gas back to electric, it cools down. Is there a simple solution.
__________________

__________________
bjlowe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2012, 09:36 PM   #2
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,157
The troubleshooting on the AC side of a dual propane/electric water heater is pretty straight forward.

Make sure the circuit breaker in the panel that feeds the water heater is set
Make sure the on/off switch is ON
Press both rubber disks that cover the high limit reset buttons

If that does not get you going:

Remove the rubber protective covers on the high/low limit thermostats
Examine them for melted connecting fuse link like the left one in the photograph
Replace thermostat if melted
If power is going to the electric heating element and still no heat; replace it.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	AC diagram.jpg
Views:	4014
Size:	69.7 KB
ID:	18727   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC03543.jpg
Views:	212
Size:	47.3 KB
ID:	18728   Click image for larger version

Name:	Limit Switch Reset.jpg
Views:	310
Size:	47.7 KB
ID:	18729  
__________________

__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2012, 10:16 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hendersonville, TN
Posts: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
The troubleshooting on the AC side of a dual propane/electric water heater is pretty straight forward.

Make sure the circuit breaker in the panel that feeds the water heater is set
Make sure the on/off switch is ON
Press both rubber disks that cover the high limit reset buttons

If that does not get you going:

Remove the rubber protective covers on the high/low limit thermostats
Examine them for melted connecting fuse link like the left one in the photograph
Replace thermostat if melted
If power is going to the electric heating element and still no heat; replace it.
Wow Lou, great information!! I'll check on this when we take the camper out this Friday for Labor Day weekend and let you know!
__________________
bjlowe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2012, 11:42 PM   #4
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,157
LOL - We get this one a lot.
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2012, 11:57 PM   #5
B47
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
The troubleshooting on the AC side of a dual propane/electric water heater is pretty straight forward.

Make sure the circuit breaker in the panel that feeds the water heater is set
Make sure the on/off switch is ON
Press both rubber disks that cover the high limit reset buttons

If that does not get you going:

Remove the rubber protective covers on the high/low limit thermostats
Examine them for melted connecting fuse link like the left one in the photograph
Replace thermostat if melted
If power is going to the electric heating element and still no heat; replace it.
Lou - you say "Remove the rubber protective covers on the high/low limit thermostats."

My Suburban WH manual only says to press the covers if the WH doesn't run on AC. Is that a fix (replacing melted fuses) that you discovered or that a generic fix for all RV WH nakes?
__________________
B47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2012, 07:41 AM   #6
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,157
Quote:
Originally Posted by B47 View Post
Lou - you say "Remove the rubber protective covers on the high/low limit thermostats."

My Suburban WH manual only says to press the covers if the WH doesn't run on AC. Is that a fix (replacing melted fuses) that you discovered or that a generic fix for all RV WH nakes?
Every water heater out there (except perhaps the "on demand" types) have some form of high/low limit thermostat. There are two in units that run on propane and AC because they are two separate and independent systems that share a water tank.

The reason is there has to be a way for the water heater to decide the water is hot enough to shut off (high limit thermostat opens) and cold enough start (low limit closes). The unit is sold as a "set" of thermostats and the thermostats are connected by a fusible wire.

As I said there are two different ones; one for AC (black wires) and one for the DC control of the propane burner (red wires) in this photo.

The reason the manual stops at pressing in the rubber covered buttons is that there is power on those thermostats (120VAC in the case of the one on the left) and you could get shocked if you don't know what you are doing.

If the high limit thermostat "bellows" gets stuck open, the electric will not heat the water. Pressing on then rubber disk will collapse the bellows and close the circuit. If the fusible wire is gone, this will not fix the problem and the entire thermostat unit must be replaced.

The Atwood thermostat looks like :

Atwood 140° Thermostat Kit with ECO, #91447

The Suburban one like

RV Suburban Water Heater Thermostat/High Limit Switch, Part # 232319 | eBay

They are not expensive and with care (and some electrical knowledge) are easy to fix.

This is from the Suburban manual.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	AC diagram.jpg
Views:	135
Size:	69.7 KB
ID:	18741   Click image for larger version

Name:	Capture.jpg
Views:	2064
Size:	47.4 KB
ID:	18742  
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2012, 09:38 AM   #7
B47
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Every water heater out there (except perhaps the "on demand" types) have some form of high/low limit thermostat. There are two in units that run on propane and AC because they are two separate and independent systems that share a water tank.

The reason is there has to be a way for the water heater to decide the water is hot enough to shut off (high limit thermostat opens) and cold enough start (low limit closes). The unit is sold as a "set" of thermostats and the thermostats are connected by a fusible wire.

As I said there are two different ones; one for AC (black wires) and one for the DC control of the propane burner (red wires) in this photo.

The reason the manual stops at pressing in the rubber covered buttons is that there is power on those thermostats (120VAC in the case of the one on the left) and you could get shocked if you don't know what you are doing.

If the high limit thermostat "bellows" gets stuck open, the electric will not heat the water. Pressing on then rubber disk will collapse the bellows and close the circuit. If the fusible wire is gone, this will not fix the problem and the entire thermostat unit must be replaced.

The Atwood thermostat looks like :

Atwood 140° Thermostat Kit with ECO, #91447

The Suburban one like

RV Suburban Water Heater Thermostat/High Limit Switch, Part # 232319 | eBay

They are not expensive and with care (and some electrical knowledge) are easy to fix.

This is from the Suburban manual.
Thanks for the explanation. The reason for asking is because I assumed that hecause the manual didn't mention "fuses" that there were only circuit breakers under the disks and no fuses.
__________________
B47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2012, 09:53 AM   #8
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,157
Now you can see it is not a "circuit breaker" per se, but a bellows switch that can get stuck open that you manually compress "closed."
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2012, 02:34 PM   #9
B47
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Now you can see it is not a "circuit breaker" per se, but a bellows switch that can get stuck open that you manually compress "closed."
Yep - I see that now.

Thanks.
__________________
B47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2012, 01:24 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Georgetown Ontario Canada
Posts: 158
Herk.

FR service team replaced my HW element with newer model not so susceptible to burn out. Btw free service for those at Frog Intl Rally

Do you know any details on this newer element??
__________________

__________________
Roy & Jean
2010 Rockwood mini Lite ETC 181
2002 Toyota Tundra 4.7l 4x4
Prodigy P3, E2 WDH
rschoono289 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:36 PM.