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Old 05-31-2018, 11:16 PM   #21
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The camper was in a flood aprox 3 inches of water above the floor for a very short time so i belive that may have been the cause of the pump failure.
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Old 06-01-2018, 04:37 AM   #22
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Yeah, that could do it.
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Originally Posted by Russ aylsworth View Post
The camper was in a flood aprox 3 inches of water above the floor for a very short time so i belive that may have been the cause of the pump failure.
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Old 06-01-2018, 05:06 AM   #23
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The camper was in a flood aprox 3 inches of water above the floor for a very short time so i belive that may have been the cause of the pump failure.
You'll need to check the fresh water tank for flood water intrusion as well and depending on their location, the furnace, the converter, breaker box, CO/Propane detector, stabilizer and slide motors, etc.

Best of luck.
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Old 06-01-2018, 05:17 AM   #24
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You'll need to check the fresh water tank for flood water intrusion as well and depending on their location, the furnace, the converter, breaker box, CO/Propane detector, stabilizer and slide motors, etc.

Best of luck.
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Old 06-01-2018, 07:00 AM   #25
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Have checked out all the above and all seemed ok just hafd the small issue with the valve position and pump so far
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Old 06-01-2018, 07:52 AM   #26
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where is the switch to turn the hot water heater on and off?
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Old 06-01-2018, 08:46 AM   #27
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Mine is on the cupbord wall just inside the entry door sll my switches are located there
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Old 06-01-2018, 03:09 PM   #28
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where is the switch to turn the hot water heater on and off?
Depends on what brand/model of water heater you have.

Suburbans generally have the propane switch inside and the electric switch outside.

Atwoods generally have both switches inside.
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Old 06-01-2018, 08:38 PM   #29
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Usually to open a valve to allow water flow, it is turned counterclockwise. If the valve has a long handle instead of a circular handle, then open is usually with the long handle is aligned with the flow of the water in valve or water supply line hose/pex/copper etc.. and closed when the handle is perpendicular to the water flow in the valve or line.

With this knowledge, you want the bypass valve closed and valves at hot water heater closed to water flow goes into and out of water heater and not bypasses it.



This picture should help you understand what a bypass is and why it is needed. Even though I've owned a camper for over 10 years, I sometimes get confused and have to think about it.


The purpose of a bypass valve is so you do not waste 6-10 gallons (depending on water heater size) of antifreeze when you winterize. Instead, you bypass the hot water heater, drain the hot water heater, and then pump antifreeze thru the RV lines and end up usuing less antifreeze.
The picture is not correct for bypass or normal use. It shows ALL valves open. Your comment says to close all valves which is not correct either. For normal use the valves to the HW heater should be open and the bypass valve should be closed.
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:39 AM   #30
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The pictures of the back of the hot water tanks are great.
Just so I do not have to think about winterization any more I printed them off and glued them to the back of the cover in the cabinet that has access to the tank.
I also threw away the screws that hold this piece of wood on and replaced it with Velcro. Much easier.


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Old 06-02-2018, 10:26 PM   #31
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Mine is on the cupbord wall just inside the entry door sll my switches are located there
Grey Wolf Limited as well.

If yours has an electric element as well as the propane there will be a seperste switch under the outside heater cover itself hidden on the lower left side. Depends what model water heater you have but if I recall the limited package added dsi/electric water heater.
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