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Old 08-04-2016, 10:09 AM   #21
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I also believe that what you are experiencing is a calcium/mineral build-up. The type water you are putting in your water heater will determine the calcium/mineral build-up. Down here in S. GA. we have a lot of lime in the water. When the water goes into the water heater the element not only heats the water but sends a tiny electrical charge through the water causing any calcium/minerals to bind together causing these little white things. This is what an anode rod is supposed to prevent, but they are not perfect. Post #20 is correct depending on the chemical make-up of the water you are using. Post #6 is a good idea also, not only for your RV but your household water heater also. Once the calcium/minerals start building up on the electrode the efficiency of the electrode starts to go down hill. I've seen electrodes with so much build-up that they cannot be removed through the hole they are installed in. I have to cut the electrode and leave part of it within the tank in order to place a new electrode in.
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:27 AM   #22
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I also believe that what you are experiencing is a calcium/mineral build-up. The type water you are putting in your water heater will determine the calcium/mineral build-up. Down here in S. GA. we have a lot of lime in the water. When the water goes into the water heater the element not only heats the water but sends a tiny electrical charge through the water causing any calcium/minerals to bind together causing these little white things. This is what an anode rod is supposed to prevent, but they are not perfect. Post #20 is correct depending on the chemical make-up of the water you are using. Post #6 is a good idea also, not only for your RV but your household water heater also. Once the calcium/minerals start building up on the electrode the efficiency of the electrode starts to go down hill. I've seen electrodes with so much build-up that they cannot be removed through the hole they are installed in. I have to cut the electrode and leave part of it within the tank in order to place a new electrode in.
REALLY,,, leave part of the old rod in the heater ???
Does the hot water then smell like rotten eggs ???
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:39 AM   #23
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As far as the toilet is concerned, I believe that no amount of pressure will "push it through" and you have to shut off the pressure, remove the water feed from the back of the valve and clean out the screen. Once plugged it won't dislodge.
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:41 AM   #24
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REALLY,,, leave part of the old rod in the heater ???
Does the hot water then smell like rotten eggs ???
I am with you on NOT leaving "Part of the Rod in the Tank"! If he would remove the Heat Elm,there is a Big Hole to gain Entrance for removal! Youroo!!
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:03 AM   #25
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As far as the toilet is concerned, I believe that no amount of pressure will "push it through" and you have to shut off the pressure, remove the water feed from the back of the valve and clean out the screen. Once plugged it won't dislodge.
Right On Scott !!!
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:08 AM   #26
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I am with you on NOT leaving "Part of the Rod in the Tank"! If he would remove the Heat Elm,there is a Big Hole to gain Entrance for removal! Youroo!!
Even thow,,, that could be a real CHALANGE once you cut the rod ???
I think if it were me,,, I would remove & replace the W/H !!!
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:20 AM   #27
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"Wolverine 1945": Yes, leave part of the heating element inside the water heater. I've had a "HandyMan" business for 11 years now and have seen my share of water heaters not working due to a bad element. I also held a Georgia State Water Treatment License for 11 years with my former employer before retirement. If you were to go to a home supply store and look at the elements you will see that they come in a variety of shapes and lengths. The "J" shaped elements are the worst. They will get a mineral build-up on them and then sort of contort into some weird shapes. The straight one's will twist and/or break into shapes that will not come out of that 1 1/4" hole either. As far as a sulfur smell, an old piece of element will not cause that smell. Many area of our country have a high sulfur content in the water although you may not smell it until the water is heated. The use of any type of wand or hose to clean out your water heater, NOT "hot" water heater (pet peeve of mine), is beneficial. Think about this: Your home water heater has water flowing through it every day, unless you are away for a few days, but your RV water heater sits where every you park it with the water in the water heater just sitting in there. Water standing like this will allow minerals to literally fall out of the water, not to mention that this water can/will go septic on you. Yes, it's good idea to drain your RV water heater if it is going to be inactive for a length of time. I'm saying over one week. I park my TT in my back yard but leave it hooked up to electricity and water. I set my thermostat on 80* to keep the unit from getting too hot. We've had quite a few days in the last 30 days that went over 100*, so my TT is never over 80*. I leave the water on so I can go into that bathroom instead of tracking in the house. I have a waste dump system next to my shop so that I can dump there and also use it to really clean out my tanks after a trip.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:18 AM   #28
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As I said I drain ours after every trip,,, we usually have 3 to 4 weeks between trips,,,
Our next trip will be in September after the kids go back to school,,, and the temps come down some !!!
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:34 PM   #29
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Don't confuse an anode rod with a heating element. My Suburban water heater has one of each.
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